To the untrained eye, Seoul is just another high-rise Asian metropolis. The neon-lit madness of Myeong-dong – a primary stop for western visitors – does inevitably have its fair share of mediocre restaurants that rely heavily on the tourist dollar. Nonetheless, it’s fun, noisy, and intoxicating, if only for a short while.
Yet if you venture beyond South Korea’s seminal nightlife district, you’ll find a very grown-up food scene that sends your taste buds into wild bouts of ecstasy. Indeed, as I discovered in March, Seoul boasts a surfeit of excellent restaurants – of all denominations – that rivals Hong Kong in terms of sheer volume and leaves most of Asia for dust. The deluxe hotel bars of the Conrad, Signiel, and Four Seasons deliver a welcome dose of sophistication, however, there is far more to Seoul than designer cocktails. Modern Seoul covers the entire spectrum from the ubiquitous (and bloody-fun) Korean BBQ to some of the best Thai, Cantonese, and Vietnamese cuisine I’ve ever tasted in my life.
The realisation hit home at Eulji Thai, after our charming hosts served up a mouth-watering selection of delicacies – red Thai crab curry, pan-fried snapper with ginger – that bore very favourable comparisons with the best efforts of Bangkok. Likewise, we feasted on superlative Peking duck over lunch at Yu Yuan and satiated our desires for Phở Hanoi as the light faded. Such are the benefits of Seoul’s diverse expat population, including the very friendly couple who ran Eulji Thai; my lasting memory of South Korea, other than shameless gluttony, is the warmth and friendliness of its people. This is despite the occasional language barrier – hotel staff all spoke good English however – and my dismal attempts at Korean; one taxi driver, evidently and rightfully disgusted with my unintentional butchering of his language, just shook his head.
But, despite myriad flavours (and linguistic misunderstandings) on offer in Seoul, many visitors associate this metropolis with DIY barbecue. They exist just about everywhere in the city – think plenty of buzz, omnipresent funnel-vented charcoal fumes and a plethora of different cuts of chicken, beef, and pork. Affordable, lively and obviously very meat-centric, these numerous barbecue venues provide a nice juxtaposition to the luxury haunts. Yet what unites Seoul’s very eclectic culinary offering is the unwavering emphasis on excellent service, a welcoming atmosphere and, of course, food to die for. During our action-packed week in Seoul, the following really stood out.
37 Grill and Bar, Conrad Seoul
Take the elevator up to the 37th floor at Seoul’s premier upmarket hotel, and prepare to be dazzled. 37 Grill and Bar offers the most exceptional views of this seductive urban jungle, with spectacular vistas of the Han River and the mass of light and human energy that lie just beyond. It managed to hold our attention for over 15 minutes, before the lure of an expertly mixed libation even occurred to us.
Of course, it would be very easy for the Conrad to serve up lacklustre food and drink at 37 Grill and Bar – it’s amazing how tolerant we become if the location is an Instagram paradise. Yet both the cocktails and bar snacks – try the amazing Gua Bao pork belly steamed buns – were top notch. An exquisite Old Fashioned and a chilled glass of Champagne started the evening off in style, before we moved on to our next destination for dinner. I suspect, however, that the chic design, views, and top-notch service would encourage most visitors to abandon any hope of leaving 37 Grill and Bar before last orders. Judging by the crowds as we left, most settle in for the night.
Address: Conrad Seoul, 10 Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Website: hilton.com
VVertigo, Conrad Seoul
One of Seoul’s most glamorous addresses is VVertigo, the Conrad hotel’s den of relaxed fine dining and unsurpassed people watching. Available for brunch, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant is split into two; enjoy the modern and spacious interior venue (complete with panoramic glass windows) or head outside and chill in one of the designer pods. We plumped for the latter, particularly as these deluxe indoor/outdoor spaces come equipped with insanely comfortable seating, impressive sound systems, and faultless soundproofing. They are available to guests who are willing to cross a threshold in terms of the total spend.
The food, too, is absolutely excellent. Expect a diverse mixture of pan-Asian accents and European classics: roasted chicken thigh encased a rich green curry sauce sits alongside beef bourguignon, halibut fish and chips, fried soft shell crab, and enchiladas. Be sure as well to save room for dessert, highlights include the Basque cheesecake and exquisite ice cream.
So we sat, glass of Veuve Clicquot at the ready, contemplating our good fortune. Our waitress was very lovely and charming; the space brilliantly snug and inviting, further enhanced by the ability to choose your own music. A little bit of Tori Amos proceeded the rich and flavoursome green chicken curry – my friend opted for the grilled pork belly, served with tomato, potato, wasabi and ssamjang (a thick, spicy Korean paste). The execution of both dishes was flawless, as was the pampering and intuitive service.
Of course, VVertigo is not the only high-class restaurant in Korea. But, to my knowledge, it is the only destination where you can dine al fresco in the middle of winter; temperatures plummet to -2°C at night in early March. However, that’s not an issue in the decadent and insanely comfortable dining domes at Conrad Seoul. Arrive early in the week, or book ahead at weekends.
Address: Conrad Seoul, 10 Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Website: hilton.com
Yu Yuan, Four Seasons Hotel Seoul
The sophisticated and innovative Cantonese delicacies served at Yu Yuan were, without question, the standout meal of our trip to Seoul. Awarded one star in the Michelin Guide Seoul 2017-2021, Yu Yuan is named after the once ubiquitous Shanghai rock gardens that characterised the city during the roaring 1920s. This glitz and glamour has been successfully transplanted to Seoul in 2024, where dish after dish of utterly mesmerising food is brought to your table by a team of consummate professionals.
We arrived for lunch about a month ago, with high expectations that were easily surpassed. As the congenial staff walk you to your table, you pass a large glass container that houses row after row of richly tanned ducklings, soon to be transformed into the restaurant’s signature Peking duck. But first things first; a glass of Champagne was offered while we perused the set menu. There are several on offer, but none more enticing – and extensive – than the Yu Yuan Icons. A la carte is also an option, however, the pre-chosen menus are very inclusive and offer better value, so it seemed the obvious and wise choice.
The restaurant caters to both couples and larger groups; there are 40 seats in the main dining area in addition to eight private ‘chambers’ and two VIP suites for parties of up to 24. The décor is the antithesis of a China Town restaurant – unashamedly lavish and opulent fabrics sit atop the marble floor, with eye-catching pieces of Chinese sculpture and latticed wooden screens.
Gastronomic duties, meanwhile, are handled by Kwok Wai To – his stellar career spans several Michelin-starred fine dining establishments. Born and raised in Hong Kong, he described his passion for ‘harmony and balance’ before the meal began.
“I strongly believe in preserving and adhering to authentic Cantonese recipes,” he said. “The seemingly swift preparation actually involves significant time, effort, and dedication and these time-honoured methods are the soul of the restaurant. As a devoted practitioner, I consider it my duty to transcend geographical boundaries and share this cuisine’s beauty with diners from around the world.”
And the meal certainly lived up to his billing. Korean black fungus in spicy soy sauce (incredibly delicious) and barbecued Jeju black pork belly in honey sauce disappeared in super-quick time; the rich umami flavours and wood-smoke tinge to the pork were simply divine. So too was the braised hot soup and steamed wild abalone with glass noodles in a garlic sauce. How easy it is to overcook and ruin this most delicate of shellfish; there was no danger of that, however, with Kwok Wai To at the helm.
Then came the standout. Be honest; you never come to top-end Chinese restaurants in anticipation of shellfish (however good) and fried rice. You come for the Peking duck and boy is it special at Yu Yuan. Expect honey-scented, meltingly tender duck breast, carved in front of the table and wrapped in soft, fresh pancakes. A silence descended across the table for a long time.
Snow crab fried rice with scallop and egg white rounded off the proceedings in style, as did a glass of red Burgundy. In truth, the whole experience gave the best of Hong Kong fine dining a serious run for its money. Good Cantonese is usually nourishing and tasty – at Yu Yuan it’s also chic and brilliantly refined. Visiting gastronomes should not miss out.
Address: 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Website: fourseasons.com
Pierre Gagnaire, Lotte Hotel
This is as close as you’ll get to Paris without actually flying back to Europe. For not only does it boast the most impressive wine cellar in Seoul, Pierre Gagnaire’s Korean outpost is a veritable Mecca of Gallic fine dining (minus the snooty waiters!) in the city.
Its OTT décor – Murano chandeliers and gold trim walls – is an entertaining counterpoint to the very innovative and sophisticated interpretations of classical French high-end cooking. Witness; black sea cucumber and abalone carpaccio with Maesaengi (seaweed) puree and Korean wild chives; fillet of John Dory cooked à la plaque, stuffed squid à la Basquaise, and pan-sauteed langoustines spiced with pepper coated with the carcass juice, finishing with marbled duck foie gras and farm chicken, cep mushrooms and shallot en meurette. You probably won’t need to eat again for at least 24 hours.
Address: 35F Lotte Hotel, 30 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul, 04533, South Korea
Website: lottehotel.com
