There’s very little that beats a cosy winter’s night nursing a glass of your favourite tipple by the fire at your local pub before tucking into some hearty, freshly prepared, plates of food. And that’s exactly where I could be found in early December, at South Devon’s Millbrook Inn in the waterside village of South Pool. What’s more I didn’t even have to travel far after decadent dinners before my head was on the pillow and I was ensconced in a sumptuous slumber, for the inn has recently revealed two new luxury, self-catering cottages for guests to stay in.
Stay
Sitting opposite the pub, ‘Land’ and ‘Sea’ (as a nod to the location) were completed this year and boast luxurious furnishings, a clean and modern design, plenty of space to make yourself at home, and all the little touches that will make any stay that much more enjoyable.
I checked into Land for two nights and immediately feel in love with the space. Sitting over two floors, it felt modern, airy and comfortable with its sprawling corner sofa, large dining table, fully equipped kitchen, and spacious bedrooms, with a bathroom holding a stand-alone tub leading from one and shower room from the other.
The bedrooms are situated on the ground floor either side of a roomy hallway which holds a long bench and plenty of hooks – ideal for storing wet coats and muddy boots after taking a long coastal walk nearby. Wood floors flow throughout while white walls, monochrome artworks and natural tones complete the décor. Little pops of colour can be found throughout, and in Land deep green accents give a nod to the inspiration for the name, while upstairs in the lounge additional pops of tangerine add a contemporary touch.
Head upstairs and you’ll find a lounge area to fit eight as well as a dining table to house the same number of people, while a modern kitchen discretely houses a fridge freezer, oven, hob, dishwasher, bin and plenty of crockery. You’ll also find a Qooker tap, which takes some getting used to, and a welcome hamper to dive into, which holds an array of breakfast items and essentials.
As this is a converted barn, you can expect to find a high, vaulted ceiling, which makes the open plan space feel much bigger, and numerous skylights and a big window at the end to let plenty of light in. What’s more, there’s a double door which connects the two properties upstairs, so larger families or groups can stay and have plenty of space to spread out, whether for a celebration or simply a trip to the depths of Devon, whatever the weather.
In short, you’ll have all the mod cons you’ll need – a sound bar, rainfall showers, hairdryer attachments, a fancy kitchen tap; it’s comfortable – I slept well in the large bed and snoozed on the sofa – and there’s great food just steps away, no dish-washing required. Bliss.
Eat
The Millbrook Inn is one of those gorgeous village pubs out of a storybook – low ceilings, beams, wood tables, and walls that hold centuries worth of tales. Although the pub (and kitchen) was refurbished by the new owners in 2021, in the best possible way, you wouldn’t know – at least those of you who are visiting for the first time – for the space oozes tradition and charm, while boasting a pleasant atmosphere. Outside a stream runs alongside the back and there are plenty of tables to hold walkers and locals on sun-filled days. Whether you’re visiting for a hearty lunch, decadent dinner, or just a drink, you’ll be well catered to.
Much of the food – top-notch organic meat and vegetables – come from the family farm, Fowlescombe Farm, just 15 miles away, while seafood is secured from local day boats, and anyone who knows South Devon will be aware of just how generous and full of quality the produce that can be found here is. Head chef Iain Dawson uses these seasonal ingredients, and often his Josper grill, to whip up creative, flavourful, yet simple dishes such as crispy salt hake brandade with thousand island sauce and lemon; pork chop with triple mustard, cider and fennel jus; and sides like grilled cabbage with a curry butter, pancetta and pickled black walnuts.
Vegan diners will be pleased to spot the likes of a vegan moussaka with cashew bechamel, wild mushroom and lentil ragu with grilled aubergine and desserts are just as delectable with the chocolate brownie sundae proving to be a decadent end to one of my dinners.
What I loved about every meal was the effort that had been made into making every item on the menu shine. Every side dish has been elevated to an extra level or two to ensure that it stands out on its own rather being a simple accompaniment to the main course. A lot of thought and effort has clearly gone into every detail with each element on every plate making part of a delicious overall dish. The crispy potato side dish was elevated with grated cheddar and spring onions, for example, while the grilled cabbage side became a quick favourite of mine due to the curry, pancetta and pickled walnuts all offering varying delicious flavours.
The brown butter pumpkin, goats’ milk purée, salad leaves with a sprinkling of pumpkin seeds and crispy bits was a delicious, light starter, while the 10oz sirloin provided a decadent main course. Served with kale and a café de Paris butter (you can also choose from red wine jus, peppercorn sauce, bone marrow jus or chimichurri to accompany), I complemented the steak with potatoes Dauphinoise, which was topped with grated cheese and sat alongside a delicious herb emulsion.
A honey pudding with honeycomb ice cream was sweet and delicious in equal measure and made for the perfect end to a delightful meal, topped off nicely with a luscious cappuccino.
It’s mostly the same menu at lunch but there was a special dish of cheesy cauliflower soup with crunchy pumpkin seeds and crispy bits alongside a smoked pastrami and cheese toastie, so I opted for this tasty sounding dish and it was as delightful as hoped! I also shared a pig’s cheek croquette, which was elevated with a celeriac remoulade, pickled gherkins and mustard sauce – scrumptious.
In a nutshell
Expect a great atmosphere and lovely, hearty food at the Millbrook Inn and a gorgeous place to stay in Land and Sea – accommodation that isn’t an afterthought but a place worth travelling to in its own right. The picture-postcard village of South Pool sits at the top of a tidal creek making it the perfect spot to explore by boat or on foot along the South West Coast Path, and the pub and cottages provide the ideal spot to wind down and refuel after your South Devon adventures.
Factbox
The pub is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and offers a Sunday Lunch menu. Check the website for full opening hours and kitchen hours.
Address: South Pool, Kingsbridge, Devon TQ7 2RW
Tel: 01548 531581
Website: millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk
Imagery credit to Millbrook Inn unless otherwise stated.
