Established in 1221 by Dominican friars, Santa Maria Novella can boast the longest and most illustrious history in perfumery. Their original remit was the creation of health-giving tinctures and salves, but today they are best known for some of the world’s most luxurious perfumes.
When in 1533 Catherine de Medici ordered perfumed water from the apothecary of Santa Maria Novella (for her upcoming nuptials to King Henry II of France) it was a celebrity endorsement that undoubtedly helped to launch their reputation as a perfumery.
Even today there’s a distinct lack of self-hype around their marketing style – after all, you can’t buy nine hundred years of word-of-mouth praise!
L’Iris. Eau de Parfum by Santa Maria Novella.
I must confess I was biased towards this perfume, since I adore Melograno by SMN (as worn by Vesper Lynd in Casino Royale, and allegedly Eva Green herself) plus iris-based perfumes are among my all time favourites.
So it’s possible I shrieked with excitement when the postman dropped off a large box with the Italian return address! Inside was an ivory-coloured box with the house’s beautifully designed label, tied with an embroidered ribbon. Untying the ribbon, I lifted out another sealed box, embossed with purple and gold lettering which, on opening, revealed the perfume itself with its velvet textured purple label and beautiful embossed heavy glass.
When perfumers talk of the scent of iris, they’re usually referring not to the flower itself (there are indeed beautifully scented varieties of iris mind you) but the rhizome or root of the flower, which is made into ‘orris butter’. It’s what lends those classics of Chanel and Guerlain, such as No. 19 or Après L’Ondée their elegant mystique.
Powdery, subtly musky, delicate and evoking a sense of poetic nostalgia, it’s the note recognisable from classic face-powder compacts. Perfumers can dress it up to be austerely posh with notes of leather and rose (No. 19), or soften it with violet and heliotrope to create the hauntingly romantic Après L’Ondée, for example.
The 2000s saw a resurgence of popularity for the note of iris in perfumery, with the launch of Hermes’ subtle and lovely Hiris, then Prada’s gorgeous Infusion d’Iris, which inspired similarly classy and delicately powdered scents over subsequent years.
So, how does Santa Maria Novella’s L’Iris stack up next to those icons of irisy loveliness?!
Firstly, when it opens on skin I’m actually reminded of the aroma of a real-life scented iris flower –fresh, subtly sweet and citrussy. I think the choice of Magnolia blossom and neroli here is truly inspired, yet these notes alone wouldn’t be enough to make this more than a lovely iris-centred perfume – it’s the depth that makes this special for me. The bitter-green of galbanum and the natural musk note of ambergris give edge and substance, lending a distinct and substantial feel while maintaining the delicacy of iris. There’s a touch of pepper here too which adds a little warmth, alongside smooth jasmine sambac.
Overall, it feels like a particularly Italian, summery iris – uplifting and very classy. As the first eau de parfum by this house, the noble Iris is appropriate, since the birthplace of Santa Maria Novella is Florence, whose beautifully scented emblematic flower, Iris Florentina, surrounds the city.
While I have a few iris perfumes ideal for a daytime spritz of irisy magic, Santa Maria Novella’s L’Iris is definitely one to reach for when dressing for that soirée spéciale!
L’Iris Eau de parfum is available on Santa Maria Novella’s website: uk.smnovella.com.
