Few accessories exude quite the same sense of glamour as a carefully chosen piece of jewellery, and rings, in particular, have served as timeless symbols of wealth, authority, and individuality for thousands of years.
But their significance has changed dramatically over the centuries and the decades too, evolving to reflect the ebb and flow of cultural, social, and technological change – from the elaborate and symbolic designs of ancient Egypt and Rome to the sumptuous and sentimental pieces of the Renaissance and Victorian eras, and later on, the bold innovations of the Art Deco movement, to the modern designs of today.
Fom basic metals and gemstones to cutting-edge alloys and responsibly-sourced jewels, we’ve seen it all. Here, we take a look at the rich and intriguing history of rings as fashion objects, from its origins to how we know and love it today.
Ancient origins: Symbols of authority and social standing
Egypt (between 300 and 3000 BCE)
In ancient Egypt, rings served as more than just ornaments to adorn oneself with; they were also seen as symbols of power and status, with only the wealthiest and most highly-respected individuals able to afford them and wear them.
The Egyptians made rings out of gold, silver, and electrum – a naturally occurring alloy of gold and silver – with gemstones like turquoise and lapis lazuli frequently added. The scarab ring, which was said to represent protection and rebirth in the afterlife and featured an intricately carved insect, was especially noteworthy.
Rome and Greece (c. 1000 BCE–476)
Moving on into ancient Greece, and here, rings were more basic and were usually composed of iron or copper with just a small amount of gold, with the spiritual status and beliefs of the wearer reflected in the many depictions of legendary settings or deities they featured. On the other hand, Roman rings were more ornate, with signet rings seen as vital to the elite since they were used to authenticate papers and bore the wearer’s seal. Due to their belief in the protecting properties of gemstones like amethyst and garnet, the Romans also favoured them over other stones in their rings.
Medieval times: Religion and loyalty
During the Middle Ages, rings became seen as representations of fidelity and religious devotion, and ecclesiastical silver rings were worn by Christian pastors as a mark of their position. Signet rings were worn by knights and nobility and featured their coat of arms as a symbol of their social standing and allegiance. A common betrothal ring at the time that represented the friendship or love between two people was the fede ring, which featured two hands clasped together, and the elegant silver rings we wear today remain classic pieces of jewellery that have successfully retained their sense of originality in both old and modern times.
Renaissance: Extravagance and individuality
Due to a renewed interest in art and culture, the Renaissance era saw a dramatic change in ring fashion. Rings evolved into complex pieces of art with the addition of enamelling and sophisticated ornamentation, with the poison ring gaining popularity and providing a touch of mystery and intrigue thanks to the tiny chamber it featured for storing chemicals. At this time, rings evolved from mere status symbols to unique forms of exhibiting individuality and creativity, and it was then that they really came into their own as the stylish and opulent accessories we know them as today.
18th and 19th centuries: Innovation and romanticism
During the Georgian period (1714–1837), more romantic and delicate patterns began to appear, with the era’s passion for nature reflected in the abundance of natural themes, such as flowers and birds, seen at this time and rose-cut diamonds and colourful gemstones also now incorporated into ring designs more extensively.
The Victorian era (1837–1901) saw an even greater shift in the wearing of rings, and mourning rings, which were sported in honour of lost loved ones and were frequently engraved with the names and birth or death dates of the departed, rapidly gained popularity. During this period, the custom of wearing an engagement ring also gained traction, with diamonds becoming a popular choice of gemstone and said to represent enduring love and dedication.
Early 1900s: Art Deco and modernism
The early 20th century saw further dramatic shifts both in terms of both ring designs and the nature in which they were worn, in part due to evolving social codes and industrial developments. The geometric patterns and vivid colours of the Art Deco style (1920s–1930s) reflected the fascination of the time with modernism and development, and because of its strength and capacity to support elaborate patterns, platinum emerged as a preferred metal, and the use of diamonds ramped up even further.
Mid-to late-20th-century: Self-reliance and innovation
After World War II, ring fashions became more experimental and style driven still, with an explosion of diverse design emerging in the 1960s and 70s and drawing inspiration from everything from psychedelic patterns to the return of vintage aesthetics. The counterculture movement and growing societal acceptance of individual expression were reflected in the development of new materials like titanium, as well as the rising demand for bespoke rings.
21st century: Innovation and sustainability
In the 21st century, ring fashions are continuing to evolve, but there’s still the same emphasis on creativity. However, there’s also a growing appetite for sustainable choices. Recycled metals and gemstones from ethical sources have grown in popularity, indicating a rising concern for ethical consumerism and our impact on the environment. Technological developments have also increased accessibility to bespoke and personalised ring designs, making it easier than ever to dream up show-stopping one-of-a-kind pieces that express their individual values and sense of taste.
The bottom line
The development and evolution of ring designs and changing fashions over the years has always been a reflection of the shifting moral standards, scientific breakthroughs, and creative fads in human culture. Rings have been and still are worn an important form of expression, from their use as a power symbol in ancient Egypt to their use in today’s customised and environmentally friendly designs, and looking ahead to the future we can expect to see them continue maintain their reputation as timeless representation of cultural and personal identity and the dynamic nature of human existence.
