When our ranger, Vibu, jumped out of the safari jeep just a few moments after we’d (finally!) spotted a large leopard roaming free in Sri Lanka’s Yala National Park, we didn’t have time to worry – for we were far from the gates, close to the park’s closing time and our vehicle was completely stuck in mud.
Twenty minutes later, we had, thankfully, passed through the park’s front gates, but not before the jeep had been coaxed out of the mud, we’d avoided a water buffalo crossing the road (there’s a joke in there somewhere), evaded the anger of a disconcerted elephant – also on the road – whose quick turn, stare and demeanour prompted Vibu to noisily leap across the front seats of the truck to deter the (very!) close creature from making any moves. Oh, and the gates were locked. After a gentle telling off, the guard let us through. Though I can’t lie, the prospect of being stuck in the park for the night, surrounded by some of Sri Lanka’s most wonderful wildlife, filled me with more than a mild hint of excitement.
With a buzz coursing through our veins from such a rare sighting and a rather exciting 20 minutes of our lives, my fellow travellers and I headed back to the comfort of Uga Chena Huts for the final night of what had been a week of joyous adventures on the island commonly referred to as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean.
From its fantastic display of flora and fauna to bountiful Buddhist features and festivals, to opportunities for adventure galore and its long-held history producing some of the finest teas in the world, Sri Lanka is a destination that will surprise and delight in equal measure. I experienced my fair share of unmissable moments on a week-long tour of this small, yet fascinating, country and if, like me, you have very little idea of what to expect before your first visit, read on for a glimpse into what this welcoming tropical island has to offer.
A sacred city, a scalable rock and a resort to remember
Following a 10.5-hour flight and a very warm welcome at the airport from our Kuoni travel guide, we were whisked off northwards in an air-conditioned minibus to the five-star resort of Uga Ulagalla, which sits near to the ancient city of Anuradhapura.
The sprawling property at Uga Ulagalla encompasses 58 acres of lush gardens, 25 spacious guest villas, a kitchen garden and facilities such as an outdoor infinity pool, Elephant Research Centre, and secluded spa, all surrounding a 150-year-old mansion at its core. Uga Ulagalla offers a wealth of wonderful experiences – especially when it comes to mealtimes – for its guests. From nature walks to kayaking, cycling the property with the bike you’ll find with your (sprawling and elegant) villa or taking part in a Sri Lankan cooking class in the kitchen garden, you’ll never be short of things to do.
A must while you’re here is to learn all about the resort’s local visitors with Katarina at the Elephant Research Centre, which was established in a bid to help conserve the elephant population in the country and aid in the human elephant conflict in the area. A cycle around the property, a dip in the villa’s pool, a spa treatment (try the facial), the aforementioned cooking class, a sundowner experience and a traditional Kamatha dining experience in the paddy fields were some of the highlights during my stay here.
The resort is perfectly placed to explore some of the wider area, especially the nearby Sigirya Rock Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, built by King Kassapa in the 5th century AD, which offers unmissable 360-degree views of the surrounding area as well as a glimpse into some rare ancient art.
Unfortunately, an existing knee injury scuppered my plans to walk the 1,200 steps to reach the very top, but my panoramic views of the area from the Lion’s Paw Terrace were eye-catching enough to please as well as the sights spotted on the way up to this point. And a visit to the magnificent fresco gallery of the ‘heavenly maidens of Sigirya’ – wall paintings of the king’s maids in wating and women of the royal court draping flowers on mortals – on the way down was worth walking the spiral staircase, which is attached to the side of the 180-plus-metre-high rock.
Another destination you can’t miss when staying here is the city of Anuradhapura, one of Sri Lanka’s old capitals and one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. Don’t be surprised to see monkeys hanging out in the trees and local dogs out for a wander as you make your way around the UNESCO World Heritage Site and its Buddhist temples. Be sure to visit the Jaya Sri Maha Bohdi (Sacred Bo-Tree) – it’s the oldest historically documented tree in the world at over 2,200 years old and was brought as a sapling of the tree under which Prince Siddhartha attained to enlightenment.
Colombo: A captivating capital city worth exploring
Sri Lanka’s capital city, on the west coast of the island, is a cultural hub for those seeking city-based delights on their travels, but is often simply seen as a place to begin or end a wider journey across the country. Stay a little longer and head to Gangaramaya Temple, one of the oldest and most important temples in Colombo, which serves as a place of worship and a learning and vocational training centre. Be sure to pay a visit to Pettah Market to pick up some locally-made goods and learn all about the country’s natural history and heritage in the Colombo National Museum. Independence Square is a historical landmark and worth a visit as is Viharamahadevi Park, a public green in front of the Town Hall and the city’s largest and oldest park.
An oasis in the centre of the city, Uga Residence is a luxurious eight-suite hotel with capacious suites, converted from stables, centred around an outdoor pool, which provides a refreshing place to relax between visits to temples and other fascinating sights outside of its walls.
I was lucky enough to visit Colombo during the annual Wesak festival, one of the most important Buddhist festivals in the calendar, and witnessed a parade through the streets of the city with dancers and drummers in traditional dress, locals bringing offering to Gangaramaya Temple and I also happened to spot the Sri Lankan president, too!
The delights of Yala National Park and Uga Chena Huts
I never thought I could be so interested in the beauty of birds until I sat in the back of a safari vehicle scouring Yala National Park with my binoculars trying to catch close-ups of the likes of the green bee-eater, painted stork and Malabar pied hornbill (I later declared these my top three birds of Sri Lanka – who have I become?). There are more than 500 species of bird to attempt to spot throughout the nation – many of which have unique characteristics or offer up a rare sighting, like our glimpse of the black necked stork of which there are said to be fewer than 50 across the whole country.
It wasn’t just the birds of Yala National Park that delighted, or even the aforementioned leopard sighting either, for southern Sri Lanka’s 100,000-hectare reserve provides opportunities to see an impressively large spectrum of flora and fauna. I was lucky enough to see an elusive sloth bear digging around for food – in fact, I had two sightings on separate days – and was in awe of the many majestic elephants, big and small, that I came across. I also spotted many monkeys and peacocks inside and outside of the park, and was thrilled to see crocodiles bathing, a water buffalo walking along with a kettle egret, a warthog, and was fascinated with all of the new birds I discovered on the jeep rides through the park.
When it came to relaxing before and after the incredible safari sightings, Uga Chena Huts was, most certainly, the place to be. 18 luxurious cabins sit within nine acres of nature-filled land, in the park’s buffer zone – just a few minutes’ drive from the entrance to one side with the coastline to the other. The word cabin doesn’t really do these accommodations justice for the designer detached offerings, set among trees and shrubs, boast a winning place to recline, whether it’s by your private five-metre pool with minibar snack in hand, luxuriating in your freestanding bathtub trying to catch a glimpse of an elephant wandering past the window (it’s possible), or relaxing on the huge bed. Natural elements are in abundance throughout the 1,600 sq ft rooms and useful elements like an outdoor shower, twin sinks and walk-in shower inside make these cabins extra special.
If you feel the need to relax even further, enjoy a spa treatment on your partially-covered deck like I did – an aromatherapy massage was a great way to spend an hour. The sounds of the ocean’s waves crashing to the nearby shore combined with the soothing lavender scented massage oils and the magical hands of my therapist, Sesy, made for an exquisite experience. She told me afterwards that a small cobra had slithered across the deck (at a small distance) at one point and I was quite disappointed to have missed it, though it may have interfered with my super relaxing moment! If you don’t fancy the outdoor experience, though it really was incredible, you can head to the on-site spa for a treatment and also enjoy a dip in the pool, which has a bar too.
Also on the property, you can dine in The Basses restaurant, which overlooks the Indian Ocean – uninterrupted all the way to Antarctica – and is named for the nearby lighthouse and reef. I devoured some of the best food of the week here, from meaty lagoon prawns from the grill and tempura prawns with coconut rice to a traditional ‘ambula’ meal of an assortment of curries, rice, sambols, meat and chutney, to the classic Sri Lankan breakfast dish of hoppers (crispy rice batter with an egg and dahl, curry and sambols), which I swiftly fell in love with.
The rugged beach provides a glorious backdrop for some sundowners or a contemplative moment in a truly superb location where elephants can sometimes be spotted splashing about and sea turtles lay eggs by moonlight. It doesn’t get much more fulfilling than that.
In a nutshell
From leopard-spotting in Yala to cycling to lunch at Uga Ulagalla and getting caught in a delightful tropical downpour; serene sundowners after a day exploring to the expert hospitality I received, and dining on the most delectable food, it’s safe to say that this week was full of unmissable moments aplenty. Upon leaving, I was well aware that I had barely scratched the surface of what this stunning country has to offer its visitors. I was so pleasantly surprised by this welcoming and adventure-filled island and I can’t wait to return to explore more of this enchanting island.
Best time to go
High season in Sri Lanka runs from December to April when the country experiences the most sunshine and the least rainfall. Having said that, depending on where you wish to visit and what you want to see – whether it’s blue whales off the coast of Mrissa in the south or Trincomalee on the northeast coast – there will be better times to visit, so take this into consideration when planning your trip.
Factbox
Three nights Uga Ulagalla (breakfast and dinner included), three nights Chena Huts (all inclusive), one-night Uga Residence (Including breakfast) including a chauffeur and guide, and direct flights from London to Colombo with Sri Lankan Airlines (economy) is £3,825 per person.
Price package based on selected departure dates in October 2024.
* If you would like to include upgrade to Business Class it is additional £2,306 per person return ** You can book with Kuoni’s Personal Travel Experts by calling their 0800 086 8776 or visiting one of their stores across the UK. Visit kuoni.co.uk for more details.
Uga Ulagalla, Anuradhapura
Nightly rates at Uga Ulagalla start from $481 (£377), based on two adults sharing an Ulagalla Pool Villa on a bed and breakfast basis. For more information or to book, visit ugaescapes.com/ulagalla
Uga Residence, Colombo
Nightly rates at Uga Residence start from $305 (£239), based on two adults sharing a Park Suite on a bed and breakfast basis. For more information or to book, visit ugaescapes.com/residence
Uga Chena Huts, Yala
Nightly rates at Uga Chena Huts start from $1,237 (£970), based on two adults sharing a Luxury Pool Cabin on an all-inclusive basis. For more information or to book, visit ugaescapes.com/chenahuts
