As the nights were drawing in and the temperature lowered, I decided it was time to activate my Christmas cheer and jetted over to The Hague to experience first-hand just how much the greenest city in Europe has embraced the festive spirit. I arrived just in time to catch the annual SnowFest taking place, where you can watch the final leg of the international festival where snowboarders and free-skiers demonstrate their skills.
Where to stay
Whilst The Hague has an abundance of world-class hotels to choose from, I opted to explore the beachside suburb of Scheveningen. I stayed at the Inntel Den Haag Marina Beach, a modern, glass-fronted hotel adjacent to the winter surfers and open-water swimmers enjoying the bracing embrace of the North Sea waters.
The hotel has a strong focus on wellness, offering a rooftop wellness centre, comprising an infinity pool, steam bath, sauna, and massage treatment room all looking out over the lights of the city. If you want to indulge in a spa treatment from the comfort of your room, their wellness rooms come replete with private hot tubs, saunas, and rain showers overlooking the marina.
As you enter the hotel from the bracing North Sea wind, and the twinkling lights of De Peer in the distance, you’ll immediately feel the festive spirit enter you as you witness the enormous Christmas tree in the foyer and the warming scents of mulled wine emanating from the Brasserie Wille 1. Room sizes are generous, and the hotel comes equipped with a hearty Dutch breakfast offering and a fitness suite to burn off any excess calories from the stroopwafel.
Where to eat
Nearby the hotel lies the bright lights of the Marina harbour, offering dining options from around the world. I opted for the wine and seafood menu at Areia by Vigo. They offer a tempting sushi Monday, oyster Wednesday or lobster Thursday, or like me you can opt for the a la carte menu to mix and match their international food menu alongside the exemplary wine offering. The wine menu spans around 450 varieties, many of which can be served by the glass. Being located by the sea, their food has a focus on fresh seafood and I watched generous plates of sushi and platters of oysters fly past my table to happy diners as I enjoyed my crispy and creamy avocado taco followed by a deliciously spiced roasted pepper tabbouleh.
If you want to get the full Christmas experience though, the grand dame of the city is in their cornerstone Hotel Des Indes. This luxury converted palace is the venue of choice for visiting dignitaries and parliamentarians, but locals and tourists alike flock to witness their enormous Christmas tree adorned with 500 hand-painted Royal Delft baubles in the grand lounge. Their festive afternoon tea is served with a welcome glass of cava before you are guided through three courses of sumptuous food, each accompanied by a pot of spiced tea.
Did you know that this is the place where the ‘do not disturb’ sign began – the enterprising Baron Von Brienen had holes placed in the door knobs with either white feathers or red (do not disturb!).
Things to see
The Hague contains an embarrassment of cultural riches – particularly within the Museums. No trip is complete without a visit to the world-famous Mauritshuis. This collection of Dutch masters is set in a glorious 17th-century townhouse in the heart of the city. The headline attraction is Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring which maintains pride of place in the upper floor, but don’t miss the other masterworks on offer – my personal favourite was the mesmerising and humorous Apelles painting Campaspe. They have also set up a fascinating room where you can view the live restoration of Potter’s The Bull, with explanations of the technique and intricacy of such a task. Even the building itself is a work of art, exquisitely rendered in upholstered walls, fine wood panelling and frescoes on the ceilings.
Head to the Kunstmuseum Den Haag to view a world-class permanent collection and exhibitions. The hottest ticket I visited was Dior: A new look retrospective of the fashion house over the years, with a collection of beautiful classic and modern garments, accessories and jewellery on display charting the evolution of the house across its numerous creative directors. Or view the largest collection of Mondrian in the world whilst learning about the De Stijl style of art and design, I particularly loved the exhibition showing how this style of art had permeated into architecture, design, and even furniture.
Things to do
Get your tastebuds tingling with a visit to the Royal Christmas Fair, set in the historic centre of Lange Voorhout, where you can easily spend a day sampling the various winter food offerings (think stroopwafel, oliebollen, and raclette) and craftworks. Or step into the warm and comforting Royal Christmas House tent and fight through the crowds to sample some Dutch spirit.
A stone’s throw away is the Royal Mile District, where you can visit the many historic and independent shops in the city for some interesting tchotchkes for your loved ones. Explore local landmarks such as bespoke men’s tailoring at Ettemadis, or colourful and quirky ladieswear at Modymary to find objects you’ll struggle to find, before relaxing in the ambience of the 103-year-old Bookstore Café, with walls adorned with literature from around the world.
For more information on this vibrant city, visit thehague.com.
