Located on the East Coast of Canada, Quebec is a magical winter wonderland and a skier’s best kept secret for elongating the season.
A haven for skiers
Surrounded by the Mont-Tremblant National Park, Mont Tremblant is an entirely forested ski area roughly one-and-a-half hours by car from Montreal Airport. Although a single peak, Mont Tremblant is expansive, loosely divided into four sectors: Versant Nord (North Side), Versant Edge (The Edge), Versant Soleil (Sunny Side), and the main massif, Versant Sud (South Side), overlooking the village and lake. Boasting three snow parks and 120 runs, the area caters for all levels of skier from beginner to advanced, thanks to easy-to-follow piste maps signposting routes from ‘pistes facile’ (easy piste) to double black diamond.
Picture-perfect pistes are hugged by snow-topped trees, with hidden paths giving way to impressively wide, long pistes with exceptionally long runs. Everything links to an impressively well-organised network of lifts, which operate under a handy traffic light system showing current waiting times.
Regulars on the European ski circuit will be surprised at the altitude of Tremblant – the resort sits just 245 metres above sea-level, peaking around 890 metres at the summit. It’s only thanks to the extreme temperatures typical to the region that the ski season has such an impressive duration, usually running from late November to mid-April. At the bottom of the mountain, the pedestrianised village of Tremblant is colourful and quaint, designed to be in keeping with old Quebec-style architecture. Snowy paths meander between a collection of bars and restaurants, hotels (there are surprisingly few in the resort, adding to the feeling of exclusivity) and boutique shops.
About a half-hour drive from Mont Tremblant, Le Sommets is a network of five independent ski areas located in the heart of the Laurentian region of Quebec, with 156 pistes between them. Sommet Saint-Sauveur offers 142 acres of skiable terrain; even more if you include the connecting Sommet Avila.
With recently renovated chair lifts and amenities, Sommet Saint-Sauveur is a favourite amongst locals thanks to the slick equipment rental process and vibrant apres-ski scene – you’re just as likely to find a family holidaying on the mountains as a 9-5er taking a quick detour en route home. A stand-out feature of the resort is their revolutionary ‘Terrain Based Learning’ approach to ski school, which aims to eliminate traditional apprehensions and anxiety for first-timers by simulating skiing movements in a controlled, flat environment before graduating to the ‘Bunny Hills’. That said, Sommet Saint-Sauveur is also a playground for more experienced skiers day and night, with demanding runs and snow parks, plus the added challenge of night skiing – select pistes from 3pm to 10pm, under lights. The resort sits at 666 feet above sea-level and summits at 1,365 feet, with 43 runs and eight lifts.
Where else is there to do?
What sets Quebec apart from so many other winter sport destinations is the plethora of activities available to non-skiers. Visitors to Tremblant village have access to all-day sessions at the outdoor, lit-up ice skating rink overlooking the Saint-Bernard chapel, and the Cabriolet lift is free to all, offering spectacular views as you climb.
For a more adventurous excursion, local tour guides are available on request. One such, D-Tours, offers a range of customisable packages and activities from dog-sledding and snowmobiling to guided walking and vehicle tours taking in highlight areas (hand-feeding the birds at Domaine Saint-Bernard is a must for those patiently-inclined).
Days can be spent exploring the frozen lakes and historic disused railway track, the latter either by foot or cross-country skis. One particular highlight (both figuratively and literally) is Sentier des Cimes, an old fish farm that has been re-imagined as a stroll through nature. Beginning in the cosy shop and café, a 2.7km treetop walk gradually climbs to an elevated platform 40 metres above ground. The sense of peace is mesmerising as you take in panoramic views of the forest.
Meals in Quebec tend toward hearty dishes and extremely generous portions. The French influence peppers more traditional Canadian dishes like poutine, which is loosely translated as fries, cheese and gravy – an absolute must-try. Thanks to the climate and abundance of maple trees, maple syrup is practically omnipresent in Quebec. Tapping and collecting sap begins as temperatures start to thaw in early spring, but the sweet treat can be enjoyed all year round. It’s common for local sugar shacks and bistros to offer Maple rolling, which is a DIY method of turning thick syrup into chewy treats by cooling and rolling maple syrup onto popsicle sticks in the snow. It’s a process that requires a modicum of patience but is well-rewarded as the taffy cools.
Where to stay
StoneHaven Le Manoir
Netled within the Laurentian Mountains’ Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts is StoneHaven Le Manoir, a recent addition to the Relais and Châteaux property group. The breath-taking estate is simultaneously both imposing and inviting, and is absolutely steeped in history.
Originally built in the early 20th Century by Lorne McGibbon as a home for him and his wife, the property recently underwent huge renovation and expansion, but much of the original façade has been preserved. Tradition and modern sit in perfect harmony – think original walls and carefully curated antiques, paired with indulgently large, remote-operated fires in the rooms.
The property exudes elegance and exclusivity, yet the warm welcome at StoneHaven Le Manoir is second-to-none, with a real feeling of arriving back home from the moment you cross the threshold. There is a sense of time standing still at StoneHaven Le Manoir – blissfully peaceful days fade slowly to evenings, as guests amble across the inner courtyard and Italian garden to indulge in the outdoor spa bath, steam room, and sauna.
Thanks to its location deep in the Laurentians, StoneHaven Le Manoir is perfectly situated for exploring the local trails around Lac-des-Sables, either by snow shoe or cross-country ski – both activities can be arranged directly by the hotel’s effusive concierge on request.
Rooms are large and airy, with impressively pointed bathrooms and all the usual trappings of five-star luxury. Dining at StoneHaven is within their intimate restaurant, offering Chef Marc-Antoine Lacasse’s take on fine dining with influence from the region.
Prices start from $45 (CAD) for dinner main courses, and room rates start from $299/night (CAD).
Fairmont Tremblant
The Fairmont Tremblant is the only ski-in, ski-out hotel within Mont Tremblant village, popular with both local visitors and guests from further-afield, including athletes competing in last season’s World Cup.
The property meanders over ground, mezzanine and terrace levels, thanks to its hillside position. A short exploration of the property is rewarded with sporadic bars, seating areas wrapped around large fireplaces, and three distinct restaurants.
Breakfast is served daily at Le Comptoir, which also offers a casual dinner. For more formal dining, Choux Gras is The Fairmont’s signature Montreal-style brasserie with head chef Romain Texier at the helm. Spilling out around the outdoor spa pools is Ricochet Café, perfect for grabbing a quick bite before hitting the slopes. This leads to Terrasse Après-Ski, which is an extremely welcoming series of fire pits and sporadic tables. Head there for some indulgent Apres as the sun sets on Mont Tremblant. Guests opting for a Fairmont Gold room also have access to their own dedicated check-in and concierge on the 7th floor, plus an exclusive all-day lounge serving breakfast, snacks and drinks.
Having recently undergone renovation, Gold floor rooms are spacious and bathed in natural light, with stunning views of the ski area. On the terrace level, Fairmont Tremblant’s impressively-stocked 24/7 gym overlooks the indoor and outdoor pools. The steam rising from the elevated hot pool is outrageously inviting, especially after a long day on the slopes.
Handily, the pool area is located just footsteps from the ground-floor ski hire and boot room. It becomes a well-trodden path as the sun begins to set.
Prices start from $38 main dish at Choux Gras for dinner, and $359/night for a standard room (CAD).
Air Canada operates direct flights daily from London to Montreal, visit aircanada.com for flights and more information.
