There are two scenes that you’ll be presented with upon arrival in Morzine: one a steep-sided valley with rock formations that look set to kill, and the other a quaint village painted with traditional Haute-Savoie chalets sporting an abundance of flowers. The contrasting landscapes shouldn’t work together, but it makes Morzine seem untouchable – like a snow globe, but where pastures are always green, the sky is dazzling, and meadows will never lose their grazing cows.
Of course, the snow clouds come and turn this community into the epicentre for skiing in the Portes du Soleil area. But during the summer months, Morzine is where life slows down. Wake to the sound of chirping birds; walk meandering roads where llamas, goats and chickens make an appearance; and immerse yourself with nature-intensive activities like lakeside walks or waterfalls swims.
Sounds delightful, right? Well, here’s how to make your holiday in the mountains happen.
Where to stay in Morzine
For our three-night stay, we based ourselves at the dog-friendly Au Coin du Feu, a luxury chalet owned by Chilly Powder. It’s surrounded by ski slopes that join Morzine with Avoriaz; and, if you wake early enough, the V-shaped valley upon which most of the rooms look out are filled with low-hanging clouds, meaning the imposing cliffs disappear from sight. It’s a dramatic scene to say the least, and an appropriate setting for a holiday dedicated to relaxation. I’d highly recommend grabbing a steaming cup of tea while watching the sun rise.
The chalet’s 14 ensuite bedrooms, which include 11 designed for families, are spacious with quirky themes, luxurious robes, Egyptian cotton linen, and access to a balcony. The communal areas, which have a home-away-from-home vibe, have an open-plan layout, including the dining area. Here, there is a four-sided fireplace – a feature for which the hotel is named after, as ‘Au Coin du Feu’ translates to ‘by the fireside’. Adjacent is a seating area, ideal for pre-dinner drinks, which is only steps away from the bar.
Overlooking this is a lounge with board games and an in-house crèche, and beyond the floor-to-ceiling doors is a backyard with an outdoor hot tub, a massage yurt, and gazebo.
In the evenings, be prepared to devour a superb three-course menu set out over two long tables. These strongly encourage you to engage with many fascinating people and create joyful memories. For one, I met several members of the GB cycling team, who were in the area for the Tour de France.
How to get around Morzine
The centre of Morzine is quite compact and easily explored on foot, however, if you’re looking to explore the region’s countryside, it’s necessary to catch the bus, grab a taxi, or e-bike.
Things to do in Morzine
Day One
Like any French village, Morzine has an abundance of charm, with friendly locals and the smell of freshly baked pastries filling its streets. Adults and children will love it, as Morzine is like a playground dedicated to pleasure. Little wonder, then, that the town has been labelled as ‘Family Plus’ since 2007.
First stop, indulge in pastries, pastries – and then more pastries! There are plenty of bakeries and shops selling regional food products, but our favourites were La Bonbonnière and Le Miladiou. In La Bonbonnière, there are rows of delicacies like strawberry tarts, almond tarts, raspberry meringues, and lightly powdered almond croissants. Then, there are stacks of bread loaves, and savoury snacks like pizza slices with bacon toppings. Le Miladiou, on the other hand, is a deli with a variety of local cheeses, sausages, and hams, and shelves of wines.
While in the town centre, explore the many boutique and independent shops, some of which have the necessary equipment to hike or mountain bike the local landscape. Baud Chausseur is a wonderful clothing store with high-end brands such as Timberland, while À Suivre has a display of delicate jewellery.
From here, walk to the Le Pleney Gondola, which zips you over steep slopes to Le Pleney mountain. You can access the gondola with the Portes du Soleil multi passes, which provide access to ski lifts, activities, and swimming pools. It’s only €2.50 per day for those staying in the area.
Getting off the gondola, you’ll find several restaurants and paths leading directly up the mountain, passing a map of the surrounding peaks. This will help you navigate where you are; and, on a clear day, it’s possible to see Mont Blanc from here. Slightly further along the path is Le Vaffieu – another restaurant – which serves traditional Savoyard cuisine in a chalet-style building.
Day Two
Start the next day by walking across the Super Morzine bridge, which our taxi driver said was wobbly. I didn’t feel anything, but I did manage to get an aerial view of Parc des Dérêches – a park with more than 10 leisure activity and sports opportunities, including several outdoor swimming pools.
At the other end of the bridge, hop into the taxi and make your way to Lac de Montriond, passing traditional chalets and an elderly man who supposedly walks for miles every day. To say Lac de Montriond is beautiful is selling it short. For one, the lake is 1,320 metres long and 235 metres wide and, during the summer, this expanse of crystal-clear water is a popular spot for canoeing, swimming, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, fishing, and yoga.
Sunbathers will marvel at the alpine backdrop, while the more landlocked but active amongst you – like us – will try the 12-hole mini golf course. Each hole represents incredible geological features or manmade landmarks in and around Morzine. After channelling your competitive side, take a gentle walk around the lake, passing many adorable puppies.
Day Three
The last day at Morzine must finish with the Pointe de Nyon. Ride the Nyon telepherique to the Nyon plateau, which is excellent for discovering what alpine life really means. There’s a mini farm consisting of a shepherd’s hut that has goats, sheep, and geese. On occasion, the shepherd puts on a presentation explaining his role – and that of sheepdogs – in the mountain fields.
From here, hop into the open chairlift to the Pas de l’Aigle viewing platform, which is placed at an altitude of 2,019 metres above sea level. It’s 15 metres long and made of glass. Those who don’t like heights shouldn’t look down, because they’ll see a huge drop! On a clear day, you’ll witness views across to Mont Blanc, with miles of undulating terrain and pockets of trees hanging precariously against the mountain edges.
Before quitting the mountain, stop at the Nyon Guérin lake, an artificial lake with magnificent blue-turquoise water that supplies the snow cannons in the Morzine ski area. At Nyon Guérin, there are traditional chalets and local breeds of cows with dangling bells around their necks to announce their presence. Then there is Le Refuge Restaurant, which is ideally situated for refreshments.
Your final stop of the day should be at La Cascade de Nyon, which sits at the bottom of a gorge and is 10 metres high. There are serene plunge pools here, which are fantastic after a long hike, or you can try the high ropes course that goes along the treetops and looks down on the waterfall.
Factbox
Chilly Powder operates year-round, offering active summer holidays for individuals, groups and families looking to experience the stunning Portes du Soleil region.
Summer prices start from £595 per week based on two adults sharing a standard bedroom, or £1,660 for two adults and two children sharing a standard family bedroom. Prices are based on a half-board basis with wine included in the evening meals. Self-catered chalets and winter ski holidays are also available.
To learn more or to making a booking, contact Chilly Powder on info@chillypowder.com or 020 7289 6958 or visit chillypowder.com.
