Words by David J Whyte
I came to Madeira four years ago and fell in love! She’s sitting opposite me now sipping on a glass of ‘vinho tinto’, we’re relaxing at one of our favourite beachside bars in Beira Calhau, just west of the city of Funchal, it’s February, sunny and warm.
Elsa and I spent two years deciding whether to live in Scotland or this semi-tropical paradise. After one dark, Dundee November, for some reason, she decided it was to be Madeira, and who was I to argue?
Best of most worlds
A thousand kilometres from Continental Europe and 500 off the Moroccan coast, this little Atlantic archipelago makes the most of an almost perfect climate. In January, temperatures flit around the mid-20s and in the summer months, balmy ocean breezes keep it cool by the pool.
Prices are equally agreeable – ‘Prato do Dia’ or ‘Dish of the Day’ can cost about the same as a cup of coffee in the UK. Evening meals are more comparable but still offer good value especially when paired with some excellent Portuguese wine.
Social life
Social life here is perilously good. We can go out most nights, there are excellent eateries all around town and live entertainment complements many bars and hotels.
During the day there is hiking or Levada walks, jumping into ravines for a spot of canyoning, boat and jeep tours or simply enjoying a leisurely stroll through the enchanting streets of Funchal. Madeira is all at once stimulating, inspiring and of particular relevance, safe.
Over this series of three articles, I’ll try to offer you an ‘insider’s’ guide to the most laudable aspects of my new island home in the form of my favourite places to stay, the pick of the top eateries and finally, a small measure of the myriad of things to do.
History
Madeira’s early days as a tourist destination attracted royalty, nobility and the upper echelons of European society. The Emperor of Austria, Sir Winston Churchill, the King of Bonny and the Prince of Wales all came to enjoy Madeira’s health-enhancing climate and high society.
During the 1980s and 90s, the island courted mass tourism and experienced proportionate growth gradually turning it into one of the most popular island destinations in Europe. Today, it’s estimated that over a million tourists visit Madeira each year, this has resulted in a plethora of larger hotels; all done, I might add, in the best possible taste.
These days there’s also a penchant for rural retreats far from the madding crowd. Cosy, country cottages amidst Madeira’s spectacular countryside are becoming increasingly popular, but you’ll find more on that at the end of this feature.
Fun in Funchal
The city of Funchal is surprisingly sophisticated. Tourism hasn’t overwhelmed it like some other island destinations. It retains its essential Portuguese character, a city for the people and by the people. I can sit for hours outside downtown cafes pretending to work, watching an entrancing world go by.
Brits flock here, happy to saunter around Funchal’s Old Town or, like me, sit outside sunny cafes along Avenida Arriaga, Avenida do Mar or in the Old Town. At night, there’s a host of attractive restaurants and bars in which to enjoy the balmy evenings.
Lovely lodgings
Finding the ideal lodging to enhance your Madeira experience is very much a matter of personal taste but let me put forward a few ideas that might help you decide.
Belmond Reids Palace
As a travel writer, I’m routinely invited to sample properties on these islands and many other far-flung corners. It’s a tough job but somebody has to do it.
Belmond Reid’s Palace is the Ritz, Raffles and the Waldorf Astoria all rolled into one. This princely edifice still conveys an impression of its illustrious past. Many of the staff at Reid’s have worked here almost as long as the place had been open – only joking, but it is a ‘badge of honour’ to be employed in such a prestigious establishment. You’ll discover seamlessly high standards of service, superb cuisine and a time-honoured feel of elegance throughout the entire operation. Age-old traditions persist such as afternoon tea on the balcony with panoramic views over Funchal and the harbour.
Savoy Palace
The Savoy Palace opened three years ago. In terms of service and ambience, it’s still finding its feet yet doing so in a very positive manner. This is a huge complex with no less than 352 guest rooms and suites therefore its footprint and bearing on Funchal’s cityscape are substantial.
What I like most about Savoy Palace is the gigantic outdoor pool area which might not be ‘beach’ (Madeira doesn’t really do ‘beach’) but here you can sit back and soak up the sun surrounded by convenient restaurants and snack bars. There’s even a pedal-powered gin trolly that trundles periodically around the poolside bathers.
Indoors, the Laurea Spa is one of the best available. In keeping, it’s cavernous yet secluded with a theme that reflects Madeira’s magical floral and health-enhancing climate. Topside, the Galaxia Bar boasts one of the best views of Funchal and its harbour. We chose this airy platform to sample Madeira’s world-famous New Year firework display this ‘Hogmany’ and were far from disappointed.
Les Suites at Cliff Bay
From the street, you get a little impression of the depths and delights of the Cliff Bay Hotel and its more recent addition, ‘Les Suites’. Virtually next door to Reid’s, they enjoy the same unprecedented cliffside views with easy access to sea bathing and poolside restaurants. In a cosy corner of the Cliff Bay is the two Michelin-starred ‘Il Gallo d’Oro’ restaurant presenting Mediterranean and Iberian-inspired cuisine.
For roomy, high-class accommodations, there’s little on the island to beat ‘Les Suites’. 23 elegantly furnished residences include secluded balconies or garden patios. Some guests like it so much they stay for a month at a time and come back multiple times a year. Who can blame them!
The Pestana Group
The Pestana Group was founded in Madeira by brothers José and Manuel when, in 1965, they acquired the Atlântico Hotel. The group now runs 87 hotels in 15 countries, one of the largest international tourism and leisure groups in Europe and certainly the largest in Portugal. Some of the group’s more distinguished properties include the Pestana Palace in Lisbon, the Pestana Park Avenue in Manhattan and the sleek Pestana South Beach, an Art Deco boutique hotel in Miami, Florida. They’ve even partnered with Madeira’s football superstar, Cristiano Ronaldo to open a hotel chain under the CR7 brand.
We stayed at the five-star Pestana Carlton on the west side of Funchal. The building is a little dated now but this hotel’s most outstanding feature is by far its rooms. Our junior superior suite was commodious to the extreme, top five-star quality and supremely comfortable with uninterrupted seaside views. The hotel is within easy walking distance of the harbour, marina and Old Town. And all, might I add at a very reasonable price!
Further west near the Lido area and similarly well-priced is the Pestana Grand, well-appointed and a worthy alternative with, we found out, a very high standard of cuisine.
Câmara de Lobos
You’ll want to visit the nearby colourful fishing village of Câmara de Lobos on your visit. The four-star Pestana Churchill Bay is a real find and I highly recommend spending a couple of nights here. The newly built Pier section of this hotel used to be the village’s fish market while the main block was the town’s municipal headquarters. Today, a bronze statue of Sir Winston Churchill graces its entrance.
This delightful property is part of Portugal’s Pousada system, historic buildings that have been rescued and repurposed. The Pier rooms of Churchill Bay have balconies overlooking the picturesque harbour. The Pier One restaurant on the third floor enjoys the same great views for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but the main advantage is being in the middle of this fascinating little fishing village.
Something completely different
Swinging briefly back into Funchal, how about a trendy boutique hotel in the heart of the town? I love stepping onto the street with easy access to the city’s most interesting parts, trendy shops and scores of great restaurants.
The four-star ‘Castanheiro Boutique Hotel’ is a tasteful blend of old and new, a complex that had its beginnings as typography and embroidery businesses and now offers elegant quarters in the city’s centre.
The family behind the project retained many aspects of the original buildings and coupled them with 81 chic bedrooms and fine dining options. A sun-soaked rooftop platform, complete with panoramic views over the Bay of Funchal makes Castanheiro a great choice for those looking for a handy option with no need for public transport – apart from your own two feet!
City Quintas
Before we leave the city, let’s look at two of my favourite properties.
‘Quintas’ are the Madeiran equivalent of country estates set up by wealthy foreign families, usually British, who helped establish Madeira’s wine, rum and sugar industries. The first estates were positioned to take advantage of fine views and airier atmosphere above the Old Town. Today, these propitious properties are surrounded by the modern city of Funchal, but their spacious gardens and courtly manor houses retain a strong sense of old-world style and decorum.
My favourite and top recommendation for these entire islands is Quinta Jardins do Lago, an oasis of calm surrounded by an arboreal den that belies the fact that it’s only 1.5km from Funchal’s centre. The 18th century Manor House is surrounded by spacious gardens while inside you find an ambience and peacefulness that, try as they might, modern hotels just cannot emulate.
The four junior suites with garden views are superb but all the rooms here are supremely comfortable. For groups travelling together, you could also consider hiring the Villa at Quinta Jardins do Lago, a private villa with all the conveniences of luxury resort facilities, ideal for a group of golfers or a family.
Its esteemed sister property, Quinta da Casa Branca was established by the Leacock family who initiated the Madeira wine trade with Britain in the mid-18th century. Similar to its luxurious relative, Quinta da Casa Branca is secluded in its own meandering garden. The bedrooms here are more modern in design, the elegant buildings not dissimilar to Frank Lloyd Wright’s designs lending an air of contemporary refinement. Quinta da Casa Branca is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
Out of town
Funchal is a wonderful base for relaxing and enjoying the town as well as exploring Madeira, but this is a diverse island of microclimates and distinctive municipalities that beg to be explored. There are a dozen delightful communities around the island such as Porto Moniz, Santana, Ponta do Sol, São Vicente and Ponta do Pargo. I’ve been exploring them in detail, and you can find more information on davidjwhyte.com.
Southwest
Madeira’s sunniest coast stretches from Funchal to Calheta. If you like the quiet beach life, the southern seaside town of Calheta is ideal. There’s a lovely little sandy beach here and a modern marina fronted by a host of cosmopolitan restaurants.
Overlooking it all, Savoy Saccharum Resort and Spa is a contemporary complex that I’ve enjoyed on several special occasions. There’s a healthy mix on offer here where you can enjoy yoga, Qi Gong, cooking and ‘mixology’ classes and there’s a superb rooftop infinity pool and sunbathing area. This is a full-service facility that’s definitely worth experiencing – at least for a couple of days.
Also overlooking Calheta is the newer Socalco Nature Hotel run by chef Octavio and his team, ideal for travellers looking to get away from it all with a conscious nod to whole foods and healthy hikes. This is ideal for singles looking to enjoy their own space or couples happy with a bit of peace and quiet. Cooking classes, gastronomic tours, wine explorations – even jam-making and bread-baking can all be part of the experience.
Country living
Madeira’s a fairly big island and it would be remiss not to make the most of it. I’ve had the pleasure of staying in several provincial properties allowing me to get to know different parts of the island.
Madeira Rural is an organisation that represents most of the island’s pastoral hideaways, not to mention the various outdoor activities and events in each of the islands’ nine parishes. Visit their website to get a full picture of the properties on offer at madeira-rural.com.
The accommodation options vary widely; old farm buildings, country cottages and Quintas all repurposed to offer a truly unique escape. I suggest you plan an itinerary that might include two or three nights in each property and explore Madeira’s magnificent hinterland in-depth.
Here are just a few examples to whet your appetite:
Golf
Golfers, for instance, would love Quinta do Pântano in Santo da Serra with its Golf House sleeping eight people and the Orchard House sleeping up to six. Here, the first golf holes in Madeira were built – all two of them! They’ve gone now but only a chip and putt away are the 27 magnificent, modern holes of Santo da Serra Golf Club.
Football
As if not be outdone, the village of Camacha was the site of the very first football match in Portugal – right here in the village square. That site’s also gone but we stayed at nearby Casas Valleparaízo and felt like we really ‘scored’! Hansel and Gretel would be absolutely enchanted with this place. This former orchard estate with its charmingly cute cottages and rambling gardens are front-cover fodder for House and Garden magazine and a great restorative escape.
By the sea
Fajã dos Padres is only reachable by boat or cable car and a world away from the usual experience. This ‘Shangri-La’ was developed by Jesuit priests back in the 1700s. Today, the small bay and fertile strip of Fajã is run by Emanuel Jardim Fernandes and his wife, Isabel, the granddaughter of the man who originally purchased the property from the Jesuits back in 1921. You can stay in one of nine cottages available to rent and there’s one of the best restaurants on the island at your fingertips.
Casas da Levada
Carrying on west to the tip of the island, you’ll find one of the most delightful properties. ‘Casas da Levada’ offers four individual cottages and a larger house that sleeps up to 10 people, ideal for yoga retreats or the like. There’s also an infinity pool, animal farm and organic orchards. But what I liked most, besides all the peace and healthy air this most westerly point offers, was their ‘Hobbit Bar’ where you can gather in the evening to meet the neighbours and serve yourself.
Quinta do Arco
What was that country song again? ‘I Never Promised You a Rose Garden’. The north-eastern community of Arco da São Jorge does just that!
Pestana Quinta do Arco is a unique property consisting of a spacious Manor House, studio apartments, duplexes and villas, most self-catering with swimming pools and country walks all at hand. Part of the estate is Jardim das Rosas, the largest rose garden in Portugal with over 1,700 species and a blaze of colour from April to late October.
Glorious glamping
Finally, let me just mention one more property. It’s not part of the ‘Madeira Rural’ association but run by Roberto, a friend of mine who’s developed his grandmother’s property into something truly unique.
About a half-hour’s drive from Funchal, ‘Canto das Fontes’ clings to the side of a cliff with a funky funicular to carry your luggage up to glamping level. Over the centuries, miles of terraces have been carved into the island’s verdant slopes to take advantage of the prolific growing conditions and here Roberto has developed gardens and orchards along with a Mongolian Yurt and several tepees, each completely secluded and private. With great kitchen and bathroom facilities immediately on hand, you are supremely comfortable with only your two selves to think about – a fabulous, romantic experience!
For more general information on the islands of Madeira, head to visitmadeira.pt.
