Choosing a ski resort is a very personal thing. And a real conversation starter. Announce the desire to book a trip and cue endless discussions over the merits of powder vs piste, resort height (will you favour snow conditions or sun-on-your-face conditions?), and of course the big one: Après. Because whilst your 9-5 is typically dans le pistes, the remaining hours will largely be spent at a bar, restaurant, or some combination of the two. It’s one of the first markers to a good resort, and your choice of venue can say a lot about you.
Exhibit a: Are you partying classic-style at Val d’Isere’s Dicks Tea Bar, or joining the new set half-way up Diebold at La Folie Douce? Similarly, Verbier has Farinet and Le Pub; St Anton has Mooserwirt and Underground. And for two weekends a year, Crans-Montana has Caprices.
Although with very few of the usual markings of a festival (vast walks between stages, limited accommodation options, and – let’s be honest – mud), Caprices earns its festival status largely due to the one-off nature of the April double weekender: 7th-10th April, and 14-16th April. Outside of these dates, Caprices simply doesn’t exist.
The buildings at 2,200 metres return to their natural employ of restaurant, and the tents at the base of the hill are packed away for the season. Meaning? Caprices is a diamond in the desert: worth the journey to get to and it won’t be there for long. Everyone parties hard for the duration.
If you’ve not been to Crans-Montana before, it’s a Swiss ski resort spanning the two towns of Crans and Montana, and is famed for its over-the-top attitude toward just about everything from food to fashion. The closest airport is Geneva, approximately three hours away either by direct train to Sierre (you can then either cab it up the hill or take the funicular), or car.
Now in its 20th year, Caprices has a tried and tested formula split across five stages – two in the mountains, both accessed via the six-man Crans-Montana gondola; and three at the base of said gondola.
The real crowd-pleaser is Modernity. Perched immediately opposite the gondola station, the stage and surrounds enjoy uninterrupted, 360-degree views of the mountains, thanks to a combination of skylights and clear plastic sheeting surrounding the stage area.
With music kicking off around 3pm, the first wave of guests tends to be the ski-set. Skis are flung haphazardly at the entrance and layers hastily removed. At this point you are just as likely to see an 80s ski suit folded at the waist as you are a hardcore partier adorned in glitter. As the light fades, there is a shift: the skiers have retreated down the mountain, their Après appetite satiated. In their place, a stream of partiers ascend the mountain in various states of dress. Some in duvet coats, some in party dresses. There is something quite uniting about the lack of theme here, and the sub-text is clear: anything goes, just come to party.
The weekend kicked off up-top with epic sets from Black Coffee, Themba and Megablast at Modernity, with Brizman setting the scene at the adjacent club stage. The sun well and truly down, we returned en masse to base camp, aka the three down-mountain stages. Naturally, the party continues here with absolute gusto: Blond:ish at Forest, Fatboy Slim at Moon, and Magda at Dome. The unique delight of Caprices is how close yet absolutely distinct all five stages are. We dabbled with each, then did it all again on Saturday and Sunday, to the tune of Jamie XX and Bedouin.
Since music starts circa 3pm each day, there is also plenty of time to explore the local area. Naturally, food is high on the list: Switzerland is famed for its indulgent fondu and raclette culture, and Crans-Montana is no exception.
Other highlights include husky sledging, exploring the plethora of beautiful lakes and, of course, skiing. Although smaller than the likes of Verbier and Val d’Isere, the resort has a pleasing array of all piste types, with a punchy black at the top and a pleasing muddle of reds and blues through the middle. There’s even a snow park just down from Modernity, equipped with jumps and bars for the truly daring. Ski hire is exceptionally easy in Crans-Montana, with a wide array of easily accessible hire stores – Bouby Sports Barzettes is a local favourite.
For more information, visit Crans-Montana Tourisme and Congrès.
