Like a wayward teenager, the King’s Cross area of London has been through many phases. Its steampunk period started in the mid 19th century when the eponymous railway station first opened and the area behind it thronged with industry. In the 1970s, as Britain’s fortunes waned, its derelict factories and warehouses provided the darkly gothic backdrop for an infamous red-light district. A decade or so later, it became the capital’s centre of rave culture and a mecca for clubbers drawn to the pounding beat of its all-night (and, in some cases, all-day) dance venues.
These days, having gone through one of the largest regeneration projects London has ever seen, it’s the bright, colourful home of Google’s UK headquarters as well as an achingly hip retail complex plus cinema, galleries, theatres and countless cool bars and restaurants.
At its centre, though, remains a historic and stylish luxury hotel that has stood at the heart of this vibrant part of London since 1854. The Great Northern Hotel, a Tribute Portfolio hotel, was originally built to serve the passengers of the Great Northern Railway that connected the capital to the coalfields of Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire. Today it’s an 88-bedroomed boutique property that, whilst retaining its Victorian charm on the outside, has been completely renovated on the inside for the 21st century.
Hotel
The classically Victorian hotel was built in the mid 19th century, designed by Lewis Cubitt who was also responsible for King’s Cross station. Its smart, curved, serious-looking frontage sits incongruous yet somehow superior to the immature buildings around it. Inside, it’s smaller than you might think but still deluxe, though never imposing. There’s a laid-back atmosphere: ‘grand hotel lite’, if you will, and a sense of scaled down, functional luxury rather than pointless and over-sized ostentation.
The hotel pays playful homage to its transport inspired past: vintage railway and public safety posters line the communal parts, some of which are shaped like train carriages; room key-cards are in the form of train tickets.
‘Pantries’ at the end of each deceptively wide corridor offer round-the-clock tea, coffee and pastries. There’s no gym or spa but guests have access to an off-site health club nearby.
The GNH Bar (and its outside terrace) fuses Belle Epoque style with Art Deco design and is reminiscent of grand French railway station bars of the past. Live Jazz and Negroni nights take place here regularly (check website for dates). A smaller, intimate and aptly named Little Bar serves French-themed cocktails in a more romantic and speakeasy-like setting.
Room
Accommodation is divided into four types: Couchette, Heritage Victorian and Edwardian.
Mine, number 521 on the top floor and tucked into the eaves, was of the latter kind. Small and clubby with wood panelling, chrome fittings and lots of beige leather made it feel like the deluxe sleeper cabin of some grand touring stream train or ocean liner. Nevertheless, it offered plenty of space for a night or two but might be a bit cosy for a couple spending more than a couple of days here. Longer staying guests would do better opting for one of the larger Victorian rooms with high ceilings and standalone baths.
Double doors led into a compact but elegant vintage-style bathroom with black tiled floor and toiletries by Malin+Goetz. A Nespresso machine ensured a bright start after a good night’s sleep in the comfortable Hypnos bed.
Food and drink
Their first-floor restaurant, previously called Plum + Spilt Milk – named after the Flying Scotsman’s dining car colours – has had a complete overhaul and rebranding. Now called Rails, it continues the bar’s French theme by offering starters such as baked St. Marcellin with truffled honey (£11) followed by cross-channel classics like Chateaubriand (£78 to share).
Desserts (all £9, except for the cheese board at £18) include France’s finest export since Brigitte Bardot: the Île flottante. More wooden panelling, thick velvet curtains and floor-to-ceiling windows complete the Parisian cafe ambience. Breakfasts, served here too, are hale and hearty and accommodate all tastes by way of American pancakes, full English fry-ups and French pastries.
To do
The British Library is more-or-less right next door and always worth a visit. They’re currently staging an exhibition on Alexander The Great which runs until February 2023. On your doorstep are the chi-chi shops of Coal Drops Yard and the bars, cafes and restaurants, plus public art installations, of Granary Square.
In a nutshell
A small but perfectly formed luxury boutique hotel whose classic grandeur sits in perfect contrast to the modern, regenerated neighbourhood that surrounds it. Ideal for Eurostar passengers wanting an upscale and stylish end or start to their journey sous la manche. Or an interesting alternative to the usual West End weekend stay. Rails restaurant also makes a great venue for Francophile foodies or those with a penchant for the golden age of rail travel.
Factbox
Rooms start from £329pn including breakfast and are bookable via the hotel’s website.
Address: Kings Cross St Pancras, Pancras Road, London, N1C 4TB, England.
Phone: 0044 3388 0800
Website: gnhlondon.com
Photography courtesy of the Great Northern Hotel (unless stated otherwise)
