Flowing through Andalusia like a silver thread, the Guadalquivir River tells stories of two millennia of Spanish history. In Roman times, ships sailed upstream from the Atlantic to Cordoba. From the eighth century onwards the Moorish invaders built grand fortifications along the cities of the river, then, in the Age of Exploration, returning conquistadors brought vast riches from the New World to Imperial Spain.
Today, CroisiEurope’s Belle de Cadix is the only river cruiser to sail the Guadalquivir, though the seven-night Andalusia: Tradition, Gastronomy and Flamenco tour is more than a river cruise. The ship takes to the Atlantic to moor up at both Cádiz and El Puerte de Santa Maria to explore the Costa de la Luz.
As the Guadalquivir is no longer navigable from Seville to Cordoba, coach excursions enable cruise passengers to take in Southern Spain’s grand triumvirate of cities: Cordoba, Granada and Seville.
Docked at Seville’s port, it is just a short stroll to the Parque de Maria Luisa with its Senegal palms, avenues of magnolia trees, blue plumbago, and jacaranda that drop a spring carpet of purple flowers.
The ship
Built in 2005, the 176 berth Belle de Cadix is topped by a sun deck and small pool for cooling off after a hot day of scorching sun and Saharan hot winds blowing in from Africa.
As well as a large bar with dance floor, on the upper deck there is a quieter panorama bar featuring a small library. Meals, with waiter service, are taken in the restaurant.
Food and drink
CroisiEurope prides itself on outstanding cuisine. Even more so when this cruise is gastronomy headlined. Thrice weekly deliveries of fresh provisions, particularly fish, fruit and veg, prompted many experienced cruisers to tell the chef that the food was the best they had ever experienced afloat.
Presentation of the three course lunches and dinners is aesthetically outstanding. Also, house wines and many other drinks, are included in the price. Whizzy waiters pride themselves on their ability to spot an empty wine glass at twenty paces.
Sangria’s role as cocktail of the day hinted that Spanish day had arrived. Sombreroed waiters served tapas followed by a paella of both seafood and chicken. Then came Pionono with orange cream: a heavenly confection of sweet pastries named after Pope Pious. The last night’s gala dinner was equally as theatrical.
Professional flamenco dancers, singer and guitarists come on board to complete the Spanish fiesta. There are now over 50 varieties of these sad, passionate songs of Spanish flamenco. Castanets clack and feet stomp as dancers and lyrics tell sorrowful tales of love and loss.
Shore excursions
A day trip to Cordoba begins with a drive across the olive and orange groves of Andalusia’s church-tower-dotted frying pan of a landscape. Walking over an eighth century stone bridge, through the grand Roman triumphal arch is the only way to enter Cordoba.
Remarkably, the Mesquita mosque built for 40,000 kneeling, praying Moslems has been colonised by nearly eight centuries of Christian worship. Although a forest of the original cream stone and red brick pillars remains, over 50 Christian altars fill the alcoves. A light-infused cathedral, on a Latin-cross footprint, now dominates the former mosque.
On the following morning, a walking tour takes in some of the grandiose pavilions of the 1929 Latin-Iberian exhibition before heading for the cathedral and the thick-walled castle, Seville’s Alcazar. Oranges, from its walled gardens of palms and foundations, make the marmalade served to the royals at Buckingham Palace.
Breaking the western voyage to Cádiz, the ship pauses at the Isla Minima, at a Latin American looking hacienda surrounded by miles of rice fields. In a yellow-sand arena, a red-socked horse and a red-dress-swirling flamenco dancer perform a dramatic duet: equestrian dressage meets balletic dance.
After walking tours of Cádiz and Jerez de la Frontera – whose Moorish castle was reduced from 12 towers to seven during the centuries reconquest campaigns as Spain continually gave battle to regain its land – there is another dramatic horse show at Sanlucar.
A short cruise takes the ship to El Puerte de Santa Maria, where Columbus recruited many of his sailors for his voyage to the New World. Here a tasting of a trio of three sherries at the Osborne bodega introduces the Spanish love of sherry.
Even when the ship has sailed east, back along the Guadalquivir to Seville, past the shifting sand dunes and marshes of the Donana National Park, there is still a full day excursion to Granada to come.
For many, the exploration of the Alhambra is the highlight of their cruise. A majestic Moorish palace at the heart of the last city to hold out against the reconquest. When Granada was finally retaken in 1492, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, immediately made the Alhambra their regal home.
In a nutshell
Cruise, dance, drink, taste and walk your way through Andalusia’s epic history. Impressively knowledgeable and entertaining guides introduce guests to the architecture, customs and tastes of the three great empires – Roman, Moor and Hapsburg – that shaped this sun-drenched land.
Factbox
CroisiEurope’s eight-day Andalusia cruise costs from £1,329 per person based on departures on the 2nd and 9th of March 2023. The price includes all meals and drinks onboard, excursions, on board entertainment, port fees, travel assistance and repatriation insurance. Call CroisiEurope on 020 8328 1281 or visit croisieurope.co.uk
