Words by Lia Tee
To the west of Tokyo, a couple of hours away on the Hokuriku shinkansen, lies one of Japan’s greatest sightseeing routes known as the Mitsuboshi Kaido. Otherwise known as the Three-star Road (for its vast number of Michelin three-star sightseeing spots and World Heritage Sites), the road stretches from Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture through Nanto City in Toyama, the famed thatched villages of Gokayama, Ainokura and Shirakawago, into Takayama then ending in Matsumoto City. The route is filled with rich history and tradition, unbelievable cultural experiences, breath-taking landscapes, and divine cuisine to be tasted.
Spend time sipping tea and chatting to the Geisha of Kanazawa
Unknown to a lot of visitors, Kyoto is not the only place where you may be able to encounter a Geisha. Kanazawa is famed throughout Japan for its preservation and support of many of Japan’s Traditional Kogei (arts and crafts). Under the might of the powerful Maeda clan who once ruled the ancient Kaga domain (present day Kanazawa), artisans, craftsmen and merchants flourished and perfected their skills of porcelain, gold leaf, kimono silks and other trades.
Wander the wide cobblestone streets of Higashi Chaya; the wonderfully preserved Teahouse district, browse stores of their famed gold leaf products, dip your head into the sweet boutique stores and, as the daylight dims, step into one of their renowned tea houses where one can spend time with the elusive Geisha.
Sit down upon the tatami floor, sip delicious green tea, sample some traditional sweets as the Geisha regale you with their stories, perform their art for you and invite you to partake in some of their music skills and games.
Relax in the view bath of your high floor suite at this boutique hotel
After a day exploring, rest your mind and soul at this modern luxury boutique hotel Korinkyo in the centre of Kanazawa. Renovated from a former distillery, the property still retains the original architecture’s stunning high arched windows through various rooms which offer delightful views of downtown Kanazawa.
Rooms are designed with beautiful minimalism of soft whites, natural light, textures and luxurious features such as a stand alone bath, one’s own private sauna or both. The High Floor Suite view rooms are particularly lovely. Korinkyo also has a private rooftop bath and sauna available for usage, whilst downstairs hosts an isolation tank.
Taste the delights of Toyama at this sublime restaurant hidden in the mountains
Deep in the remote mountains of Toga Village, Toyama lies a truly divine dining experience, L’evo (Michelin two-Star). Following in the footsteps of acclaimed chefs like Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume and Magnus Nilsson’s Fäviken (sadly now closed), Eiji Taniguchi has created his own dining auberge upon a settlement once inhabited by hunters and foresters. For anyone who enjoys the journey to a destination, the breath-taking scenery on your nearly two-hour drive there will entrance you.
Originally from Osaka, Eiji fell in love with Toyama Prefecture and its bounty of fresh produce; Toyama Bay is one of Japan’s most fertile fishing grounds. Inspired by the natural elements surrounding him of star, sky, snow, mountains, water and soil, Eiji has created a modernist cuisine which celebrates Toyama’s delicious seasonal produce innovatively. The restaurant champions local artisans and craftsmen by showcasing their beautiful wares to serve the dishes on and enhance the ambiance. Signature dishes are their hotaru no ika (firefly squid), tsukinowaguma (asian black bear), ōkado sōmen (fresh wheat noodles) and their impressive L’evo chicken.
Unwind in your own private artisan Machiya
If you’re lucky, you can stay the night at L’evo in one of the three available rooms. However, for those who want to explore more of Toyama Prefecture, spend a night in Inami, famed for its master woodcarvers in the beautiful restored and renovated Machiya villas of Bed and Craft. Every Machiya features a different local artisan works and influence in the design. Their MITU property has a lovely large porcelain open-air bath for you to soak away in.
Explore and wander around stunning World Heritage Sites
In between the drive from Inami, Toyama to Hida Takayama, Gifu are the famed World Heritage Sites of Gokayama and Ainokura (Toyama) and Shirakawago (Gifu) villages; where one can wander around their stunning preserved traditional gassho-zukuri houses where locals still maintain their daily way of life from centuries past. Characterised by their deeply slanted, thatched roof houses, the name gassho-zukuri was derived from the way the roofs looked similar to a Buddhist monk’s hands praying and gassho-zukuri literally translates to ‘hands together in prayer’.
Picturesque throughout all seasons, these villages are perhaps globally renowned for their spectacular winter-scapes as Japan’s soft powdery snow blankets the entire village, covering the famous rooftops with only twinkling lights to be seen.
Stay overnight in a traditional Machiya
Rest for the evening in the city of Hida Takayama, where you can explore this former merchant town’s charming historical centre of Sannomachi filled with local restaurants, shops, breweries and boutique accommodation. The area is a throwback to Japan’s Edo past as the buildings have been kept wonderfully intact and maintained since. Iori Stay, a project started by Shingo Matsuba to revitalise his hometown by restoring and renovating local traditional houses, is the perfect choice to enjoy a Machiya stay and be within walking distance of the town’s delights. They have six properties in Hida Takayama and four in neighbouring Hida Furukawa.
Discover the hometown of visionary artist Yayoi Kusama
The other end of the Mitsuboshi Kaido lies in Matsumoto City, home not only to Japan’s oldest remaining five-tiered, six-storied castle turret, but the hometown of artist Yayoi Kusama. The Matsumoto Museum of Art’s main attraction is their collection of Yayoi Kusama works from her early years to special new installations, like the current ‘The Place of My Soul’. For lovers of her pieces, this is a wonderful introspective to the mind, and thinking behind the artist. The museum also carries other works by both prominent and up and coming artists who call Matsumoto their hometown or have been inspired by the city’s surroundings.
Bathe in the healing waters of Asama Onsen
Treat yourself at the end of your adventures with an onsen ryokan stay at Asama Onsen town, roughly a 30-minute drive from Matsumoto City. Several onsen ryokans are available to choose from, however if you wish to experience true Japanese omotenashi, book a stay at the luxury KAI Matsumoto, part of Hoshino Resorts. Twenty-six rooms are available, with some of them having their own private open-air onsen bath and terrace, or just open-air onsen bath. Their multiple public onsens, especially the outdoor ones are perfect to feel at zen with oneself and nature.
About the author
Lia Tee is an Aussie based in Tokyo, Japan with a love of exploring the lesser known, and learning people’s life stories. She loves to seek out onsen ryokan with private onsen baths, discovering hidden sushi omakase gems or curled up in her Totoro bed with a good book. If not travelling in Japan or abroad, her days are spent in her studio, Tokyo Kaleidoscope, reconstructing vintage Japanese silk kimonos into bespoke pieces for herself and others.
Follow Lia as she explores more areas of Japan intimately, over on her Instagram @ryokanwanderings or have a read of her blog: Ryokan Wanderings for even more stories and adventures.
