“Everywhere in Ibiza takes half an hour by car.” It’s a bold statement but one that I’m 100 per cent thrilled about as we step off our Friday night-of-closing-parties-weekend descent into Ibiza Town. The flight, having served as something of a pre-club meet and greet, has delivered an Airbus full of party-goers, and us. We’ve come to Ibiza for an altogether different experience – the growing trend of agri-tourism.
Happily, the magic of Ibiza lies in its diversity. Despite its size (approximately 572 km sq), the island has multiple personalities, loosely split into geographic regions. San Antonio = party. The north = luxury. Where we are going, Santa Eulalia = agri-tourism, AKA an immersive, 360 submersion into local farm-land life.
Simply put, Santa Eulalia is an Ibizan community bound by tradition, authenticity and locality. Although quiet, the area is bursting with gourmet markets, artisanal crafts and time-honoured traditions. It is arguably the most authentic of Ibizan experiences.
Where to stay
Hotels in Santa Eulalia tend to be family-run, often restored traditional Ibizan houses or farms.
Can Curreu
Can Curreu is a boutique hotel built around the original Can Curreu finca. The sprawling property is nestled in the hills just outside the quaint village of San Carlos, around a 35-minute drive from the airport. Each of the 20 suites are individually accessed, scattered around a network of plush foliage, cobbled pathways and roaming cats. Although thoroughly modernised, the suites retain original features, and are delightfully bright and spacious. The contrast between the traditional and the modern is what makes Can Curreu so unique.
Suites have their own unique private outside area, and bathrooms are breath-takingly large with jacuzzi baths and walk-in showers. But all is interspersed with the likes of exposed wood beams, sporadic terracotta planters, and original tiled floors. A real selling-point of Can Curreu is the frankly stunning view down into the valley: it is well-worth an early alarm to watch this slice of life come to life. Sunrise is serenaded by local cockerels and the occasional horse neighing, before guests amble toward the central meeting point: breakfast. Platters of local fruits, cheeses and meats are accompanied by on-demand eggs and fresh coffee. Just down from the al fresco dining area is the pool, hugged by loungers, palm trees and parasols. It’s a slower pace of life here, a real chance to switch off and recharge.
Prices start from €275, and prices for superior suites start at €325.
Cas Gasi
A variation on the agri-tourism theme, Cas Gasi is a beautifully restored country home bursting with rustic charm. Rooms are peppered throughout the main building, each with a very unique personality. Mine was just off a reception area bursting with an eclectic mix of artifacts and décor, with direct access to a semi-private courtyard; others had Juliette balconies.
Guests are encouraged to forage in the gardens (the property is set within an impressive four hectares of land) for raspberries, olives and carob; or explore local cuisine – farm-to-table style – at the restaurant. On which note, the dining area is nestled behind the pool amongst bountiful fauna, with seating that sprawls outward and down the slope. Thanks to an uninterrupted vista beyond the pool, Cas Gasi lends itself perfectly to lazy sundowners, with a simple yet decadent cocktail menu to match.
Prices for deluxe king rooms start at €725.
What to do
Las Dalias Hippy market
A three minute stroll down the hill from Can Curreu is rewarded by an explosion of colour and culture, aka the Hippy Market. One of the oldest on the island, the bazaar has been a bustling hub for the area since its five-stall infancy in the ‘80s, and now boasts 200 coveted spots for retailers from bespoke jewellery and hand-made clothes to decadent soaps, artisan foods and unique artwork. Having started off as a dance floor for locals in the ’50s, the market is as much a place to browse as a meeting point for locals and is a melting-pot of culture open on weekends, 11 months of the year.
Ca n’Andreu des Trull
This is an ancestral casement dating back to 1730s that has been preserved in its original form and now serves as a museum, giving a flavour of traditional rural life in Ibiza. As was typical in the 18th century, the family home was entirely self-sufficient, so contained an olive press, wine house and slaughter house as well as just three bedrooms for the 10-children family. It’s a chance to step back in time – the walls are adorned with original artifacts, clothes, and photographs of the family.
Mini Moke Ibiza
For the less walking-inclined, a great way to see Santa Eulalia is by classic car, available for rental by the day. Mini Moke Ibiza is the only rental company of the Balearic Islands that offers hire of Austin Rover’s legendary Mini Moke – a small front-wheel drive cabriolet without doors. Think blissfully breezy trips rewarded with views from harder to reach places, and the hidden gems of the island.
We visited Puig de Missa, a stunning example of the fortified churches typical in the region with spectacular panoramic views of the coast and Ibiza hills. Although dating back to the 16th Century, the church is still operational for worship – mass takes place every Sunday at 11am. Mini Moke Ibiza hire starts from €100 per day.
Finca Ecológica Can Musón
This is a working ecological farm, shop and restaurant that opens its doors for daily tours and meals. Founder Maria Mari takes pride in growing biologically responsible fruit and vegetables, and guests are quickly equipped with a basket of lettuce to feed the 19 animal species on arrival, for a taste of farm life. Meals of traditional Ibizan dishes made from natural, fresh organic products are taken al fresco on long bench-style tables or at the sporadically placed tables and sofas. Maria uses her grandparents’ recipes to maintain the island’s traditions, with the occasional modern twist. Smoothies are bursting with flavour and colour, and try the picante table sauce if you dare. Farm entry starts from €10.
Visit visitsantaeulalia.com for more ideas.
