Words by Elaine Wilson
Straddling the border between France and Spain, the Basque Country is a region rich in history and is a culturally unique destination. Indeed, Basque people speak a unique language, Euskera, which is unrelated to any other language in Europe. This distinctive linguistic heritage, along with a strong sense of identity and traditions, has long set the Basque Country apart.
The Basque Country has other unique elements that form part of its culture, including sports like pelota. Pelota is the name for a kind of unique Basque real tennis where two teams of two players use a sort of basket scoop-come-racket to hit small hard balls against a wall scoring points against each other. It is worth going to a game if you get the chance and has quite a following here.
San Sebastian, or Donostia in Basque, is one of the most famous cities in the region. Located on the Bay of Biscay, it has been a significant settlement since ancient times. San Sebastian rises to prominence in the 19th century as a fashionable seaside resort – Queen Isabel II of Spain helped popularise the city as a royal summer retreat, sparking a wave of aristocratic and bourgeois visitors.
Today, San Sebastian is renowned for its stunning beaches, such as La Concha and Zurriola. La Concha, with its crescent-shaped bay, is often considered to be one of the best city beaches in Europe. Zurriola, on the other hand, is a favourite among surfers.
A maze of narrow streets filled with bars, restaurants, and shops make up the city’s picturesque old town, Parte Vieja. Significant landmarks include the Gothic Revival-style Buen Pastor Cathedral and the elegant Victoria Eugenia Theatre. The massive iron artwork of San Sebastian native, Eduardo Chillida defines the rugged coastline. The comb of the air is one of his most famous pieces and can be found on the end of the rocks at La Concha bay.
San Sebastian cuisine
San Sebastian is a gastronomic paradise, boasting one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars per square metre in the world. The city’s pintxos – small snacks similar to tapas – are legendary. These bite-sized culinary delights are often enjoyed in the many bars of Parte Vieja, where hopping from one bar to another to sample different pintxos is a cherished tradition. Dishes like bacalao a la vizcaína (salted cod in a red pepper sauce) and txangurro (spider crab) showcase the region’s rich maritime heritage.
Additionally, the Basque cider houses, known as sagardotegi, offer a unique dining experience where guests enjoy cider straight from the barrel. And don’t forget the famous Basque cheesecake, which is a kind of rich burnt cream affair.
Where to stay in San Sebastian
For the discerning traveller, the place to stay in San Sebastian is the five-star Hotel Maria Cristina. The hotel opened its doors on July 9, 1912, and it was Queen Regent María Cristina who crossed its threshold for the first time as the beautiful city had become one of the favoured destinations of the European aristocracy. Located on the banks of the Urumea River, this hotel epitomises both luxury and history.
The Belle Époque style of the hotel reflects the opulence of its early 20th-century origins, featuring grand architecture and lavish interiors. The hotel has 139 rooms and suites, each elegantly decorated and offering modern amenities while retaining a sense of historic grandeur. Guests can enjoy fine dining at the hotel’s restaurant, which offers a sophisticated take on traditional Basque cuisine. The Maria Cristina also features a stylish bar and a terrace with stunning river views.
The hotel is really close to San Sebastian’s many attractions. It’s a short walk from the old town, the beaches, and cultural landmarks. For those seeking a combination of cultural immersion, culinary excellence, and comfort, the Hotel Maria Cristina offers the full package.
History of the Hotel Maria Cristina
After some initial objections to its construction, the Hotel María Cristina became an integral part of the social, economic and cultural life of the city throughout its history. Over the years it has hosted presidents and luminaries from the worlds of art and literature.
At the beginning of the Civil War in July 1936, the hotel, which was one of the most emblematic buildings of the city, was occupied by a coup. After two days of fighting the troops surrendered to the militiamen. Incredibly the building suffered little damage and even today some bullet holes are visible on its façade.
In the sixties, individual bathrooms were added and the furniture and decoration were improved. The eighties brought a drop in tourism and the hotel declined, so the city council bought the hotel to ensure its preservation. In June 1985, the hotel was revamped and returned to its former glory, reopening in 1987.
On September 21, 1953, the first edition of the San Sebastian International Film Festival launched resulting in the Hotel Maria Cristina becoming the hotel of film stars, directors, producers, screenwriters, and journalists.
The San Sebastian Film Festival
Over the years, the Maria Cristina has hosted numerous celebrities and dignitaries with the brightest stars descending during the film festival, an annual event drawing global attention to the city each September.
Stars who have stayed at the Marie Christine read as a who’s who of the beautiful and famous. Old school Hollywood are represented by Elizabeth Taylor, Gregory Peck, Bette Davies, Audrey Hepburn, Peter Finch, and Robert Mitchum. A newer galaxy includes Susan Sarandon, Al Pacino, Michael Douglas, Jeremy Irons, John Malkovich, Anthony Hopkins and Michael Caine, while Arnold Schwarzenegger, Chris Hemsworth and Bradley Cooper have also rested their heads at this grand hotel. This year Cate Blanchett will receive a Donostia Award at the 72nd San Sebastian Festival. The Australian actress and producer and winner of two Academy Awards, will receive the event’s highest honorary award.
Basque Country – the Maria Cristina today
Today, the hotel remains a jewel in the crown of San Sebastian and the Basque Country, and is part of the Marriot International chain under its Luxury Collection brand. Its elegant décor is very much in keeping with the Belle Epoque style and the whole hotel, with its grand ‘Gone with the Wind’ staircases, has a real air of serene luxury, and the face of Maria Cristina herself is everywhere in paintings and the decoration around the hotel. The staff are attentive and very friendly, too.
In a nutshell
The Basque Country definitely has a unique history and culture. San Sebastian is a lovely city to spend a long weekend in with its vibrant old town, elegant buildings, lovely beaches and excellent cuisine.
Elaine Wilson has been a leading freelance travel writer for the past five years and a travel blogger for more than a decade with her award winning blog Eccentric England.
