Madeira is unique, a sub-tropical island unlike any other, a land that stimulates the imagination like the low hanging clouds, pierced by sunlight, that moodily cloak the knife edge mountains here. In some parts it feels like one is nestled deep in a Hawaiian rainforest, trees heavy with tropical fruit, in others one could be viewing the final mountainous point of a great unknown continent where dark azure waves pull against a long deserted beach of ochre coloured sand. Madeira is a magical paradise for the senses.
Located on the south-west coast of Madeira, the pretty, friendly seaside town of Ponta do Sol has a reputation for being one of the warmest and sunniest places on the island. A mere 30-minute drive from the island’s capital Funchal, this 15th century town arose out of the flourishing sugarcane industry. Today, it is a draw for its pebble-beached seafront enveloped by cliffs, a beautiful church Nossa Senhora da Luz, and a small fistful of excellent restaurants and vibrant bars.
Hotel
Perched above the town is the hotel Estalagem da Ponta do Sol, an unmissable landmark given its minimalist architecture, which includes a cloud grey concrete pillar gripping the side of the mountain and stretching a few hundreds feet into the sky. That is just for starters being merely the elevator shaft that wizzes you from sea-level to the hotel. It is a dramatic entrance worthy of a Bond set and what follows in terms of design, sophistication and atmosphere does not disappoint.
Emerging from the red lit elevator car, another lovely cinematic touch, you arrive at the property welcomed at first by the hotel’s two dogs Stella and Poncha, the latter named after the revered Madeiran tipple made from citrus juice, honey and local rum or ‘aguardente’. Originally a ‘quinta’ or manor house, this today holds the hotel’s reception, a lively bar, cosy library and a stunning terrace and garden where tiny gold and emerald speckled lizards laze in the winter sun.
The terrace overlooks Ponta do Sol and the wide Atlantic beyond – we were told whales are often spotted from this vantage point. The seas off Madeira are unimaginably deep and are a popular highway for cetaceans. The modern part of the hotel, designed by celebrated architect Tiago Oliveira, was built on the surrounding land and its stark swan white buildings, with large panoramic windows that flood the interiors with light, extend right to the cliff’s edge.
Room
There are 54 rooms. We stayed in a standard Seaview facing room with a sun terrace. We enjoyed stunning views of the ocean, the rocky coast directly beneath us and the cliffs to our east. At night, dots of light along from the sea to the high hills lit up like fireflies, while the crashing waves below cradled us to sleep. Garden view rooms look over Ponta do Sol and the mountainside banana plantations.
The room itself was simple and spacious with light wood flooring, white walls decked out with black and white art photographs and a comfy bed with striped linen sheets. The large bathroom came with a shower and other rooms have bathtubs. All have air conditioning, satellite television and a minibar.
Food and drink
The hotel’s restaurant has a dining room that overlooks the town and the bay. It opens out onto a small outdoor garden terrace surrounded by verdant tropical plants where you can eat should you wish. Serving both lunch and dinner the cuisine is local Madeiran and European. The food is well priced and very good, particularly the steak and the scabbard fish, the latter despite its satanic looks is a delicious, meaty Madeiran speciality.
After dinner many guests head to the snug Lobby and Lounge Bar, which is open late and is a great place to relax and meet others. Two roaring fireplaces and the incredible terrace view only add to its charm. The breakfast buffet serves continental style freshly baked breads and pastries, yoghurts and mouth-watering tropical fruits from ruby red pomegranates to golden mangoes. There are German and Scandinavian delicatessen favourites in a nod to the hotel’s main guests. The breakfast also has a first-class à la carte menu that changes daily.
To do
The centrepiece of the hotel is undoubtedly the infinity pool set in a cliff-side garden that drops in rocky layers to the sea. The view is absolutely spectacular. There is an outdoor hot tub, and further down an indoor pool, hammam and sauna and massages can be booked in-house. Right at the cliff-edge in the pool area is the Poolside Kabo Bar where you can serve yourself a cocktail or pull a cool Super Bock on draught. On weekends there are regular sunset parties here with live music and DJs from as far afield as Lisbon and Berlin. Nearer to the reception, among the hotel rooms, is a gym.
The very accommodating and knowledgeable staff can organise hikes, which includes complimentary transfers to a variety of trails you can choose from, whether you want to see ‘levadas’ (canals), canyons, mountains or waterfalls. Other activities include whale watching, paragliding, diving and snorkelling.
In summer months you can take a trip on the hotel’s own catamaran off the coast to go seal, dolphin and whale watching. There is also a private beach, Faja dos Padres, with volcanic black sands and a restaurant. The hotel provides a free daily shuttle service to Funchal and to the airport.
In a nutshell
The breath-taking location, stylish design and relaxed vibes easily make Estalagem da Ponta do Sol one of Madeira’s top boutique hotels, particularly for a romantic break, yet it’s close enough to Funchal if you want a bit more action. A superb destination in a gorgeous corner of this extraordinary island.
Factbox
Rooms start from £130pn and are bookable via the hotel’s website. Breakfast is included as is Wi-Fi.
Address: Caminho do Passo, 6 Ponta do Sol, 9360 529 Madeira, Portugal
Phone: 00351 291 970200
Email: info@pontadosol.com
Website: pontadosol.com
