Built in 1892 and located in the wooded hillside above Loch Faskally, a man-made reservoir in Scotland’s Perthshire countryside, Fonab Castle is one of Scotland’s most luxurious retreats.
The warmth of the welcome and hospitality on offer at this resort, hidden from view just off the A9 behind a line of tall dense trees, is evident from the moment you reach the end of the driveway. Kilt and tartan trouser wearing doormen wave enthusiastically to guide you to the hotel’s entrance to unload. Stepping out of the car, you are jovially ushered into the reception, checked-in and offered a short tour of the hotel and its facilities.
The imposing Scots baronial style property, constructed in Dumfriesshire red sandstone, designed by the Perthshire based architect Andrew Heiton, who was known mostly for railway stations, was commissioned by Lieutenant Colonel George Sandeman. The Sandeman family business had become renowned importers of wine, port and sherry and there are nods to their heritage in the spirits industry throughout the hotel.
During World War I, the castle was used as a British Red Cross hospital for those injured in battle. Fonab remained a family home until 1946 when it was acquired by the North of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board as their headquarters. Fed by the River Garry and the River Tummel, Loch Faskally, overlooked by the castle, is retained by the Pitlochry Dam, which was constructed in the late 1940s as part of Scotland’s hydro electric power scheme. The dam has now become a tourist attraction with a small educational centre and café. The dam also incorporates a fish ladder, allowing salmon to travel upstream during the breeding season.
The castle’s use as offices was eventually abandoned and after lying empty for a number of years, the property was bought and converted into the magnificent luxury hotel complex that is seen today.
Location
The hotel is found close to the town of Pitlochry, around an hour and a half’s drive from the international airports of both of Scotland’s two largest cities – Glasgow and Edinburgh.
The Highland town, which can be reached from the hotel with a short walk across the Loch Faskally dam, sits beneath the Ben Vrackie mountain. Its origins can be traced back to the 18th century when King George I sent General Wade to ‘inspect’ Scotland and report back on the best ways in which to suppress any potential uprisings against the British monarchy. Wade recommended the construction of barracks, bridges and roads to facilitate better control of the country.
General Wade extended the Great North Road (established between London and Edinburgh) to enable military access to the Highlands and its proximity facilitated the increased accessibility of the wider area surrounding Pitlochry. Primarily built for military purposes, these roads made the Highlands and other parts of Scotland much more reachable, ultimately paving the way for the development of these areas with new wealth and settlors. Over time, inns were built to cater for travellers along the routes. After its initial development, Pitlochry grew significantly after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited the area in 1842. Queen Victoria’s fondness for the town helped to establish it as a popular tourism destination for the Victorians. The railway arrived in 1863 which further accelerated Pitlochry’s growth and popularity.
Hotel
The striking Category B listed mansion of Fonab Castle forms the main part of the hotel, which is now a blend of historic meets contemporary. The original bright red sandstone castle building has been vastly extended with a modern construction which provides the ‘1892 On The Loch’ restaurant and the ‘Lounge Bar’ with floor to ceiling glass windows providing spectacular views over the loch and surrounding mountains.
Accommodation is spread across the original castle building and new lodges built within the grounds, just a short walk from the main hotel. The spa, including gym and swimming pool, is a separate building, another short walk from the main hotel.
Room
The hotel has 42 bedrooms spread across its castle rooms, lodge rooms and woodland wing. Its signature room is the castle penthouse suite on the fourth floor, which features a stunning high vaulted wooden ceiling, separate dressing room and magnificent views over the Perthshire countryside.
I stayed in a superior loch view lodge room, a spacious and luxurious room providing views over the loch, dam and mountainside. All these rooms feature either a patio or balcony to enjoy the views. The rooms are tastefully decorated, have huge comfy beds, include a sofa facing a large flatscreen television and two large armchairs at the patio doors. The bathrooms are generous in size and enjoy a walk-in shower, as well as a deep bath.
Food and drink
The hotel has two restaurants. Its signature restaurant is Sandemans – 3 AA Rosette awarded – which provides a five- or seven-course set menu and is found nestled within the heart of the old castle. The menu changes to reflect in season ingredients and diners can expect courses such as langoustine raviolo, venison tartare and dry aged duck, followed by mango mousse and an artisanal cheese selection.
Breakfast, afternoon tea and more casual dinners are served in the ‘1892 On The Loch’, and I ate here for a relaxed dinner. Starters of Orkney crab linguine and pumpkin and sage ravioli were followed by Loch Etive trout with herb gnocchi and samphire and a Black Angus ribeye steak. Tiramisu for dessert completed a delicious dinner. Service in the restaurants (and throughout the hotel) is always attentive and friendly, contributing to a charming ambience.
Recently, Fonab has also added outdoor ‘pods’, providing views of Loch Faskally and the grounds of the Fonab Castle Estate. Each luxury pod offers adjustable heating, mood lighting, personal music system, service button and your very own host to look after you and your guests. These are a fun and relaxing space, ideal for drinks parties for up to twelve guests or breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or dinner for up to six guests.
Above the ‘1892 On The Loch’ restaurant is an upper level providing an expansive and spacious bar area, again providing magnificent views and a great place to retreat for relaxed post dinner drinks. In addition to the hotel’s extensive wine selection, the bar provides a wide array of Scottish craft gins, a wonderful cocktail list and, as you may expect, a spectacular showcase of Scotland’s great single malts.
Spa
The Woodland Spa at Fonab Castle includes a 15 metre swimming pool, sauna, steam room and outdoor hot tubs. For the ultimate treat, book one of the spa treatments on offer.
‘Your Best You’ can be recommended, a top-to-toe treatment bespoke to you. The gentle massage includes Himalayan salt stones with TEMPLSPA nurturing skincare to support stress relief, increase energy, and positively boost your mood. ‘Rhythmic stretches, and gentle joint rotation rescue achy limbs and a gentle lymph drainage facial reduces puffiness to leave skin fresh and feeling beautiful’.
I experienced a ‘Woodland Wellness’ one-hour treatment. This is an invigorating massage which makes use of medium to firm pressure to help release tension, stretch muscles and relieve any stiffness in joints. It is designed to detox and balance the body whilst targeting areas of tension and stress.
To do
For a weekend of indulgence and relaxation, there is no need to stray from the resort’s grounds. However, the hotel is perfectly positioned to enable you to explore Perthshire. Setting off from the hotel on foot, you can undertake a number of great walks, of varying lengths and difficulty, incorporating Loch Faskally and the surrounding mountainside.
You can also enjoy a huge range of activities set up by the hotel with its handpicked partners – from clay pigeon shooting to salmon fishing to Land Rover off-road driving experiences. Fonab has also teamed up with Heli Air, one of the UK’s largest helicopter operators, to offer an exhilarating opportunity to take to Scotland’s skies and experience the views of the breath-taking Scottish countryside from your private helicopter. Arrangements can also be made to transport guests with Heli Air to sporting estates or golf courses further afield.
The town of Pitlochry also has the Festival Theatre, a short walk from the hotel, which has become well renowned for its diverse array of performances from comedy to dance to musicals and drama. You can also sample Scotland’s greatest export – scotch whisky – by visiting one of the nearby whisky distilleries such as Edradour or Blair Athol distillery.
In a nutshell
A delightful and luxurious discovery – a historic castle and grounds converted into a modern haven of grandeur and warmth. A perfect hotel for a quiet weekend retreat or as an elegant base for an action packed holiday in the great Scottish Highlands.
Factbox
Double rooms at Fonab Castle Hotel and Spa can start from £308 for bed and breakfast, but vary according to the season.
Address: Fonab Castle, Foss Road, Pitlochry, Perthshire, PH15 5ND
Phone: (+44) 1796 470 140
Website: fonabcastlehotel.com
Photography courtesy of Fonab Castle.
