The celestial, wintertime paradise of Switzerland’s St. Moritz has evermore rejoiced in its tinselled stature as the ruling bellwether of Alpine grandeur and gloried 1864 birthplace of winter globetrotting.
A luxe resort town enveloped within the Upper Engadin Valley in the south of Switzerland, this picturesque settlement maintains a certain swagger with a statuesque posture that reaches a towering 1,856m. This opened the gateway for a bountiful reservoir of golden sunlit days which, in turn, lead for the treasured sun to be legally safeguarded in 1930 as the symbolic crest of St. Moritz, with refined ski connoisseurs soaring through the townships 88 snow cocooned pistes while basking under the flaxen, balmy drenched rays.
Dripping in historical grandeur, interweaved with slick charisma, the Grand Hotel Des Bains Kempinski St. Moritz stands as an ethereal hospitality pearl in this winsome, snow coated Swiss utopia still revelling in its milestone 20th anniversary celebrations from December 22. It was nothing short of a fairy-tale fantasy turned dazzling reality, as my presence was summoned with a showcase of award-winning sybaritic jamborees, lavish lodgings and impeccable hosting within this lionised Grande Dame landmark.
Hotel
Exhibiting graceful poise in an iconic historical building traced back to 1864, the Kempinski St. Moritz basks in its glittering stature as St. Moritz’s oldest and largest five-star hotel landmark. A distinguished timeline dripping in rich attested chronicles, the opulent conception of Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski St. Moritz began its genesis during our own gloried Queen Victoria’s reign from 1837 to 1901, set upon a natural sparkling mineral spring in which Europe’s glamorous blue-blooded society regularly luxuriated in to soak up the therapeutic effects.
A smooth, untroubled flight into Zurich Airport followed by a swift train voyage to Chur, soon saw me sip and savour a flute or three of honey hued champagne, whilst gazing at Switzerland’s Valtellina vineyards and paradisiacal glacier vistas onboard the most Instagrammed railway spectacle of the Bernina Express, before my final port of call to Gare de Saint Moritz. Evermore the maestros in the realm of milk and honey, it was a delight to be in the company of the hotel’s exquisitely attired chauffeur, racing to relieve me from my hefty winter possessions before setting upon the five-minute whirlwind voyage to our destination of the Kempinski St. Moritz.
Nestled a mere 20-minute stroll from the resort town’s gourmet sanctums and couture emporiums, the plush exterior of this stately hotel oozed with a comely tranquil aura. It’s 1887 reincarnation chose to embrace a fresh regal aura of a Mediterranean palazzo, armoured in a pristine white coat with powder blue window shutters to set the scene for the equally gloried, interior entry, fresh from an in-vogue resurrection.
A spotless cream-toned backdrop, set with exquisite balustrades, sung in pitch-perfect harmony with the intricate golden ceiling trimmings, fragrant botanicals enveloping the classic pastel seating, and glittering gem chandeliers illuminating the way to the reception desk by a pathway of in-house luxury boutiques. Perfectionists in the art of debonair chivalry, the besuited check-in team concluded it to be suitable I execute the formalities while quenching my thirst on a crisp chilled flute of champagne twinned with artisan truffles, before gallantly being escorting to the trappings for my royal weekend residence.
Rooms and suites
With 224 rooms and suites and residences for their discerning visitants, guests seeking opulence should book one of the 44 residences. They evoke a quintessential Swiss chalet vibe with winter furs and sanded pine, whereby the remaining evenly opulent lodgings seek to embody a comforting homely aura. Warm brown hues, snug carpets and smooth wooden features mingled with treasured mod con luxuries, including white and dark marble clad bathrooms sourced from the South of Tirol, Nespresso machines and sleek wide screen TVs, not forgetting the sweeping rapturous vistas of St. Moritz’s Alpine setting.
Serving up a scrumptious slice of the Presidential dream to yours faithfully, was my beauteous home from home of the Presidential Suite. The property showcased an epic 3444 sqft of illustrious palatial resplendence, swirled with a contemporary exclusivity kitted out with a private kitchenette, lounge plus a bonny belles fantasies of a velvet ruby hued carpet fit for a starlet, and walk in wardrobe for those glittering glad-rags and diamanté stilettos. Playing host to three bedrooms worthy of sheltering up to six guests, each chambers housed their respective canopy king-size beds swathed in silken, stripe bedclothes and cushions of cream and yellow gold shades, whilst a ritzy catalogue of Ferragamo’s grooming supplies lined up the herculean deep-soak bathtub.
As my gaze descended into a deepening, dazed state of mind amongst the wondrous spectacle of the Albula Alps, a gentle knock of the door released me from my bewitched trance and in the presence of my suite assigned butler. Brimming with masses of high-spirited wit and a beautiful silver champagne bucket in his possession, he wasted not a nanosecond to stride across into the confinements of the living room assembled with chocolate toned seating and art-deco chandeliers, before setting about to ignite the balmy orange flickers in the porcelain coated fireplace, setting the picture for an enthralling, pre-dinner champagne episode.
Food and drink
Debonair diners are chaperoned within an epicurean portal, to indulge and appease their culinary cravings with a fresh depth of five gastronomy dimensions at the Kempinski St. Moritz. Rustic flavours of Italy have been jet set to this Helvetic borough to the Victorian quarters of Ristorante Da Adriano, created to meticulous perfection, where tender eggplant parmigiana is served with a luxe dallop of smoky eggplant caviar, and meaty blue poached lobster marries into a glossy satin sauce from sweet Datterino tomato.
Not many a breakfast affair can contend with a bon-vivant’s morning liaison, within the noble splendour of Grand Restaurant Les Saisons. Adorned in a palette of burnt caramel and crimson reds around a central antique chandelier, Les Saisons thrives in serving up their award-winning breakfast buffet to their famished morning meal mavens, with a princely AM banquet hosting regional delights of creamy cheeses, lean cold cuts and invigorating freshly squeezed juices, dished up alongside many a global specialities to wash down with free flowing prosecco. The ever popular eggs station offered a theatrical display of perfect poached eggs with crispy buttered muffins, while the caramelised aromas of maple-topped pancakes proved futile to fight.
No fine-dining affair can be accomplished with the absence of a sophisticated cocktail encounter at the Kempinski Bar and Lobby, which has rejoiced in celebrating a revival since its grand unveiling during the resort’s 20th anniversary. Wallowing in an urbane contemporary facelift, the wide open atmosphere and intricate light tinted ceilings had radiated the spotlight on its crowning glory of the cocktail bar, sheathed in an under-lit marble silhouette that faced an illuminated display of splendacious tipples, to form the foundations of the saporous cocktail menu.
Honing in on a tropical fusion of fruity concoctions with a herbal gusto christened after St Moritz’s majestic local mountains, the talented mixologist maestros commenced the aperitif hour with a sultry Parisian creation of the Tour de Crystal. Smooth and invigorating, the zesty tang of lemon vodka blended into the sweet bitter relish of real pomegranate, topped with a generous bubble brimming of lashing of rose champagne, perfumed with the sugared notes of red grapes and cherries.
As the talented live singer embarked on captivating her evening audience with a medley of soulful blue melodies, an aptly titled Erva Da Flurs (Flowerfield) glided to a black stone table hosting the warm flickers of a centre fireplace, brimming with the musky floral scent tones of jasmine gin swirled with the herbal essence of lavender and vanilla.
Satiating starved appetites with their award-winning, avant-garde gastronomic notion, lies the sybaritic Michelin jewel of Cà d’Oro. Headed by head chef Leopold Ott, this sprightly culinary artist has illustrated the uppermost in gourmet nouvelle-cuisine with a classical brush, focusing on a Mediterranean tasting voyage brimming with seasonal ingredients and premium produce from around the world. This ‘House of Gold’ – as the restaurant title translates – has earned that highly coveted star, plus a luminous assemblage of 17 Gault Millau points.
The restaurant space played to an exquisite treasure case character, with gold framed mirrors and crystal chandeliers, hovering over crisp white veiled tables set with agile fine cut glass and silver tableware. Not one to leave their beloved diners with the torment of a parched throat, a much welcomed vision of Ruinart’s Blanc de Blanc champagne flowed into my dainty flute, paired with minuscule cheese tartlet canapés before the succulent foie gras appetiser fell into my presence.
As subtly delicate as it was buttery rich, this velvetised delicacy played in harmony to the fresh bursts of pomegranate to soften the meaty depth of the richness, whereas the favoured Nobu pupil of the black cod held its own, with a small degustation portion of silken flakes resting on a lightly spiced curry bed.
Trusting their invaluable counsel to stay faithful to the honeysuckle delight of my Ruinart, the tagliano helping proved a worthy victor in this tasting combat, with airy amber pasta enveloped in a sea of parmesan mixed butter, and generous shavings of priceless Perigord black truffle making for an opulent moreish middle course.
Concluding the savoury offerings with the veal sharer, a milky, tender charcoal cut brimming with meat juices paired impeccably with the golden, flaky crisp French stunner of the rosemary herbed pommes Anna. No Cà d’Oro experience could be terminated without a sweet treat finale of the creamy zabaione marvel from Maitre Rispoli, fused with the toasted hazelnut hints, and deep bodied malt from the ginger ale.
Detected via a painless stroll in neighbouring presence to the Kempinski residences, the outdoor Veuve Clicquot haven of Sunnestübli flaunts their glamorised calibre as St. Moritz’s most desirable to be seen sip and savour venues. Prettified in Veuve Cliquot’s signature orange pigments, guests can experience the ‘Sunny Vibes’ at Sunnestübli while delighting in a sparkling flute or four, paired with local comforts of Bratwurst hot dogs and piping hot goulash, as the DJ transforms the mellow placid spirit into a pulse-pounding infectious mode ’til sunset.
Wellness and things to do
As spa culture continues to knead away the wear and tear grind overwhelming their fatigued natives and far-flung patrons, the Kempinski’s luxury spa serves as a composed wellness shelter including seven saunas, a steam room and calming Kneipp bath to offer rejuvenating customised treatments, focusing on holistic tranquillity.
Stationed across a sprawling 2,800 sqm, a marbled columned indoor pool can be unearthed for guests to melt away their post adventure tribulations in 30 degrees of heated calming ripples, before moving into the idyllic serenity of the outdoor pool as you dive into your ‘Sanus per aquam’ voyage, and savour on the pure water nectar from the iconic Mauritius Spring. Adrenaline geared clientele also have the pleasure of the fitness gym area, fitted out with cutting-edge gadgets to work those workout grooves before surrendering into the vapour hideaways of the steam room and sauna, to unlock and erase one’s city hustle tensions.
Not satiated in welcoming its visitors to luxuriate in the contemporary luxe Alpine lifestyle festooned with ambrosial gastronomical affairs and spirited apres-ski havens, this Swiss suave hamlet has thrived in its stature as THE snow sports destination for chiselled Beaus and Belles coutured in their hot-off-the-catwalk adventure attires to embody the pinnacle of blue-blooded resplendence. A hedonistic Winter Spectators retreat, the internationally honoured snow polo flaunts its esteem as St. Moritz’s most dazzling agenda in the calendar on the frozen Lake St. Moritz, hard on the heels of the White Turf, altogether ironically selling the sizzle on skijoring, champagne and caviar.
In a nutshell
While the Grand Hotel Des Bains Kempinski St. Moritz rests alongside a legion of palatial hotel beacons in the Swiss Alps, the magnificent settings, piquant dining assortments and unparalleled intuition to residents aspirations has kept their little black book of pedigreed habitué in a fantasy Shangri-La throughout their Alpine rendezvous.
As the 21st Century witnesses the crowning conclusion of the Kempinski St. Moritz’s many a decadent revivals, this breath-taking hospitality institution embodies the epitome of its exuberant palace like past harmonised with a new-fangled Alpine chic future that pays loyal tribute to the property’s tagline: ‘Swiss heritage meets modern luxury’.
Factbox
Room rates start from approximately £900 per night including breakfast with suites from £1,300 per night.
Address: Mezdi 27, St. Moritz, 7500, Switzerland
Telephone: 0041 81 838 3838
Website: kempinski.com/en/grand-hotel-des-bains
All imagery credit: Kempinski Hotels
