Grand Hotel Kronenhof – or Grand Crown House – sits at the heart of the pretty village of Pontresina, just 6km from St Moritz. As you drive towards the quiet and picturesque resort, away from the glitz and glamour, you can’t miss the hotel perched on the hillside overlooking the Roseg Valley and the River Flaz. The grand façade, emulating a Disney palace, dates back to 1848 and is a protected landmark.
Hotel
The five-star hotel started life as a guesthouse in 1848 with a roaring wine trade running from the cellars. The current hotel – which is registered as a historical landmark – was built at the end of the 19th century and is an exquisite example of neo-baroque style. It opened in 1898 and was renamed the Grand Hotel Kronenhof and Bellavista. The property has undergone a major facelift in the last few years, bringing a contemporary and stylish new design and finish to many of the 112 rooms and the large communal areas.
This modern reimagining is evident as soon as you walk through the ostentatious entrance and into the smart reception, before the bejewelled glass doors open to reveal the elegant lobby lounge; a wash of soft furnishings and a blue finish said to reflect the turquoise Engadine skies. A pianist’s nimble fingers danced across the keys of a shiny grand piano, creating a relaxing soundtrack to the sunny afternoon.
Room
Grand Hotel Kronenhof has accommodation to suit everyone, from cosy and snug chalet-style bedrooms, to traditionally-styled suites with epic views over the mountains, to new renovated chambers oozing sophistication and contemporary design. We were lucky enough to be staying in a grand deluxe junior suite; a large and sumptuous space with vistas over the peaks.
The blue palette from the impressive lobby flowed into our bedroom where shades of teal, sky and sapphire brought the pristine turquoise skies indoors and reflected the strong sunshine of the spring weather. We entered through an entrance hall with storage, mini bar and coffee facilities, into a large suite with comfy lounge, useful desk and king-sized bed, thick and bouncy with fluffy duvets, throws and pillows.
Strategically placed windows mean you can awake each morning to the view out to the ski runs and a peephole window into the sumptuous en-suite ensures you can make the most of the outlook from every space, even the tub. The bathroom is connected to the bedroom via a spacious and practical dressing room, with room for ski gear, formal outfits, shoes and luggage. And the bathroom itself boasts a large sunken bath, shiny marble-topped his and hers vanity unit, and frosted glass steam shower and loo.
The hospitable staff brought up our luggage promptly and arranged a delicious platter of fresh fruits and delectable taster of truffles to sample after a busy day on the slopes. Fresh water was provided and turn-down made the dimly-lit room enticing and relaxing at the end of an action-packed day. After a night of broken sleep we made a special request from the pillow menu to ensure a much better slumber for our second night; vital when you’re hitting the piste early each morning.
Food
Steeped in history, the Grand Hotel Kronenhof still makes the most of its heritage and offers guests the opportunity to step back in time and experience what it might have been like staying in this luxurious hotel at the turn of the century. The Grand Restaurant – housed in the hotel’s original ballroom, complete with exquisite ceiling paintings (said to depict the four seasons of the Engadine region) – hosts breakfast and an opulent dinner every evening.
Serenaded by a pianist, guests can enjoy a taste of old-world glamour and elegance by dressing for a formal, fine dining experience. There is a strict dress code and the staff offer silver service and a delicious set menu. We took our seats to enjoy a refreshing glass of Champagne before choosing from the menus (I was thrilled to see my dietary preferences had made it to the staff who presented me with pescatarian and vegetarian options). The food was tasty, the atmosphere incredibly fitting, and the service was impeccable.
The highlight of Kronenhof’s dining was, however, for us, a visit to its award-winning gourmet restaurant, Kronenstubli. The hotel’s best-kept secret, it was tricky to find; tucked away at the end of long corridors, stone staircases and creaky floorboards – but it was certainly worth the expedition. The staff were incredibly friendly and chatty (never ceasing to amaze us as they conversed with ease in multiple languages with guests of all nationalities at each table), guiding us through the menu, answering all our questions, and having a laugh with us.
Kronenstubli – translating quite literally to crown sitting room – has all the warmth and hospitality of a guesthouse dining room; managing, despite the many decades that have passed, to hold onto the charm that once made this a popular restaurant with guests and locals alike. The wooden panelling and exposed beams create a rustic ski lodge feel, but the food could be from any Michelin-starred restaurant.
We started with a selection of homemade breadsticks, bite-size breads, mushroom dip, tomato butter, cracked sea salt and tapenade, before the chef presented an amuse bouche of ceviche halibut with caviar. A tiny morsel packed full of the finest ingredients and flavour. Despite our alpine setting, we enjoyed an enchanting meal made up of dishes from around the world, starting with French-caught king crab which was fresh and beautifully presented.
Next, I had seabass, seared and topped with a delicious crumb coating, and served with mussels, artichokes and the smoothest and tastiest ratatouille sauce. A nutty, chocolatey ice cream paved the way for kaki mousse – a light, citrus-infused sweet – and petits fours of pistachio nougat and cherry-filled truffles, presented in a fold-out, pebble-lined box. The whole dining experience was fun, unique but, most importantly, full of memorable flavours.
After dinner you can head to the bar; a stylish renovation boasting rich velvet fabrics and a sleek marble bar. Bold colour decisions of ruby red and Royal blue could trick you into believing you’re in a London gentleman’s club, but the window views quickly remind you of your distance from the cities of Europe. Next door, the smoking and cigar lounge has also been modernized to have a refined and luxurious finish, and a billiards room and library – with chess board – offers after-dinner activities.
Guests are also invited to make the most of the dining options at sister property, Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, where there are seven restaurants to choose from during the high winter season, including funky Peruvian cuisine, relaxed Italian, and Michelin-starred dining.
To do
The most memorable part of this unique hotel is certainly its 100-year-old bowling alley. I’m fairly certain I’ve never visited a hotel with its very own bowling alley; and certainly not one steeped in so much history. The wooden lane was installed in the 1920s, and yet the mechanism – which re-sets the pins, informs you of your score, and sends the ball hurtling back to you – is certainly ahead of its time. The space can be used by guests or hired out for events, and also hosts weekly fondue nights which are full of fun and laughter.
By day, there’s also lots to do here at Grand Hotel Kronenhof. During winter, the team create a sparkling ice rink so the whole family can have a go at skating, and there’s also plenty for young guests to do at the free kids’ club. Guided mountain hiking, biking tours and snow shoe hikes are on offer and horse-drawn sleigh rides into the Val Roseg could be the perfect way to rekindle your romance or celebrate a special occasion.
This isn’t just a winter destination, however. Grand Hotel Kronenhof is a popular summer retreat, and visitors can enjoy hiking, mountain biking, rock-climbing and access to lake-based activities such as sailing, wind-surfing and wild swimming. Guests who stay for two or more nights during the winter months can access discounted lift passes while those staying in the summer can enjoy free travel on all mountain transport, making it easy to get around and try out all the pursuits!
And this year (2022), for the first time ever, the hotel is also staying open for autumn so visitors can enjoy the stunning golden colours as the seasons change. Spot wildlife, walk in the surrounding mountains, enjoy the hotel’s facilities and make the most of the hotel’s reduced autumn rates.
Skiing
While Pontresina has no slopes of its own, it is well-known for ice climbing in the gorge and is a paradise for mountaineers and outdoor enthusiasts looking to get onto the snow. Grand Hotel Kronenhof has unrivalled access to beautiful hiking trails and many guests who visit enjoy making the most of the 220km of cross-country ski tracks that meander along the valley, right past the hotel’s front lawns. If it’s the region’s 350km of downhill ski runs and pistes that you fancy though, then that’s a short drive from the hotel.
The hotel provides an hourly shuttle service to the Marguns gondola, providing access to the blue, red and black pistes of Corviglia. Alternatively, you can drive yourself to another ski area nearby, such as the small but beautiful Corvatsch, which was hosting the Freeski and Snowboard World Cup during our stay in March.
We cruised around the wide and family-friendly runs, hopping on chairlifts that sailed us over the huge snow park built for the competition as we watched the world’s best athletes – including Winter Olympic gold medallist and team USA competitor Alex Hall and eventual tournament champion and home-grown hero Andri Ragettli – soar high over the kickers, showing off their twists and spins and flips to adoring crowds.
Spa
The Kronenhof team dug down below the historic hotel to create a spectacular spa which looks as though it’s been carved into the rock of the mountain. A double-height, glass-fronted atrium houses the 20m-long infinity pool, which disappears into the mountain range beyond. Sun streams through the windows and warms the row of loungers that make the most of the stunning views.
There’s a kids’ pool tucked behind the concourse, with splash zones and a slide, as well as an incredible hydro pool which is curved around the exposed limestone walls. At its centre is a large, whirling Jacuzzi, with individual pods bubbling with massaging jets to knead your aching muscles after a tough day on the slopes.
In Sauna World, guests can enjoy the salt steam room, sauna, a kneipp footpath (which leads your tired legs through a stream of rejuvenating warm and cold water), and relaxing showers. Guests who choose to can also opt to steam in the nude areas. Keeping my swimsuit firmly on, however, my favourite spot was the serene floating grotto – a relaxation pool where you lay back in the buoyant water to float atop the calm and tranquil water, gazing up at the rippling surface mirrored onto the ceiling, and an underwater soundtrack to calm you even further. The feeling of weightlessness after a day pounding the slopes was lovely.
For those seeking a bit more of a work-out, there’s a personal trainer on hand to guide you around the fully-equipped gym overlooking the pool – and still making the most of those snowy landscapes outside – and outside, in the summer, guests can enjoy al fresco yoga or Pilates. A team of therapists are on hand to provide treatments ranging from detox wraps to facials, massages to manicures; and the relaxation room, with its own flickering fire, provides dreamy heated waterbeds so you can take a nap or read a book in comfort.
In a nutshell
Grand Hotel Kronenhof is the beating heart of the pretty village of Pontresina, a charming and historic hub far from the glitz and pizazz of St Moritz but still with the tranquil beauty of the far-flung Engadine region. While the five-star hotel is all as exclusive and luxurious as its neighbours, here you can truly escape to unwind in privacy and seclusion.
It offers a peaceful, tranquil setting just a stone’s throw from the adventure of the ski resorts and the buzz of town but, surrounded by forest and with sweeping alpine views across to the Roseg glacier, it’s impossible not to relax into a slower pace of life in this beautiful corner of the mountains.
Factbox
Rooms start from 1,120CHF in a grand deluxe junior suite, during the winter season, based on two people sharing on a half board basis.
From 23 October to 6 December, a special dinner bed and breakfast rate of CHF395 is valid for two people sharing a double room, only bookable on the hotel’s website. This represents close to a 20% discount on summer room rates and a 30% discount on winter room rates.
Address: Grand Hotel Kronenhof, Via Maistra 130 7504, Pontresina, St Moritz
Phone: +41 81 830 30 30
Email: reservations@kronenhof.com
Website: kronenhof.com/en
