Words by Rosie Davis
For a slice of refined elegance and glamour, few locations in Europe rival the French Riviera. Running from Saint-Tropez to Menton near the Italian border, the Cote d’Azur is a fashionable and attractive stretch of 550-mile coastline renowned for designer boutiques, innovative French cuisine, and the Mediterranean’s vivid blue crystalline waters.
It first became a popular holiday destination in the mid 19th century when wealthy Britons escaped the harsh English winters, seeking solace in the finer climate found in the South of France. A playground for the rich and famous, iconic names like Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn first flocked to the Riviera back in the 1950s, whilst artists such as Picasso and Monet created some of their most famous work there.
With famous destinations like Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Saint Jean Cap Ferrat dotted along the scenic coastline, the South of France holds something for everyone to explore.
Hotel
Formerly known as the Villa Saint-Louis, Hôtel Belles Rives was once the private seaside residence of one of America’s foremost 20th century writers, F Scott Fitzgerald. Inhabited by him and his wife, Zelda, during the 1920s, this lavish cream-coloured villa is widely acknowledged to be the inspiration behind one of his classic literary works, Tender is the Night.
As a writer known for his depiction of the fortune, glamour and tragedy that defined the Roaring Twenties, this decadence and opulence lives on in this restored five-star 43-room luxury boutique hotel.
In his novel, Fitzgerald recounts the ‘diffused magic of the hot sweet South’ which still feels palpable today as you step inside and marvel at the beautiful Art Deco interiors. You instantly feel the long-gone Riviera ambience, with original early 20th century furnishings and intricate period details spilling from every corner, embodying the glamour of the 1920s.
Directly translating to ‘beautiful shores’, the hotel is true to its name, sitting in a prime position on the Cap D’Antibes peninsula. It remains one of the few properties to offer a true waterfront setting and boasts views of the unspoilt neighbouring Lerins Islands from the outdoor terrace and panoramic sea-view rooms. Just beyond the harbour, you can see a small flashing green lighthouse, rumoured to be the model for the green light that takes centre stage in Fitzgerald’s most well-known work, The Great Gatsby.
With a private sandy beach and beach club, sunbathing pontoon, water sports club, two restaurants including the renowned Michelin-starred La Passagère, and the Piano Bar Fitzgerald, named after the writer himself, you will struggle to find a property with as much character and sophistication in the French Riviera.
Room
With just 43 rooms, you feel more like you’re in a private residence than a hotel here. Since it was first taken over by the Estène-Chauvin family in 1929, the hotel has remained in their care to this day, with former art dealer Marianne now at the helm. Their love is evident through the careful restoration that has taken place, with each room elegantly restored while preserving the villa’s famous Art Deco heritage.
Rooms feature a bold mix of contrasting patterns and textures with detailed Hermès wallpaper and Pierre Frey fabrics dominating the design. Whilst the sleek all-marble bathroom packed full of luxurious Penhaligon toiletries, Nespresso coffee machine and the extensively stocked mini bar make for a truly indulgent stay.
Given the hotel’s history, standard rooms can feel on the smaller side, so it’s worth booking a suite if you can, particularly one with a sea view; be warned, with panoramic views as beautiful as this you may struggle to tear yourself away from your balcony.
Food
The hotel’s most well-known restaurant, La Passagère, offers first-class views and a masterclass in Michelin-starred dining, with the seasonal gastronomic cuisine paying homage to its enviable seafront location. Renowned chef, Aurélien Véquaud, keeps a firm focus on the local seafood with his selection of tasting menus, aptly named ‘Couleurs Primavera’. Standout ingredients like langoustine are infused with samphire and platine caviar, whilst morel mushrooms come to life with wild blackberries and black garlic cream. The hotel’s expert team of sommeliers are on hand to complete your experience, accompanying each dish beautifully with their vast selection of wines.
The gourmet restaurant underwent a complete redesign in 2016 by Olivier Antoine, known for his work at Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo, with interiors that feature a Carrara white marble floor, imposing crystal chandeliers and colourful hand-blown glass created by artists from Biot. Food is served on hand painted Bernardaud porcelain plates, featuring a selection of scenes from the hotel’s idyllic surrounds. With a swath of new luxury finishes, the original 1930s cubist ceiling frescoes, commanding white pillars and Art Deco design remains at the restaurant’s core.
A generous breakfast buffet is served in this main dining room every morning, with guests treated to views of sunrise on the stone terrace as they tuck into cooked breakfast options, such as scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, and a modern take on a traditional full English. For those with a sweeter tooth, a variety of pastries, homemade cakes, fresh fruits, and a wide selection of freshly squeezed juices complete the line-up.
For a more casual but equally delicious dining setting, the Californian-inspired Plage Belles Rives beach restaurant hosts diners on the waterside terrace overlooking the sea. As waves lap against the pontoon, Provencal influenced dishes can be found on the menu, with grilled fish, Black Angus rib eye and freshly made truffle penne among the most popular choices. Whilst the starters and mains are delightful, special recognition must go to award-winning pastry chef, Steve Moracchini, for his extensive list of sumptuous desserts which really steal the show.
After a day at the beach club, head to Piano Bar Fitzgerald for the perfect spot to unwind as the sun sets on the flowery terrace. Live music from an ornate grand piano and a selection of champagne-based cocktails makes for an enjoyable evening.
To do
Halfway between Nice and Cannes, the Hôtel Belles Rives sits proudly in the quieter, upmarket town of Juan-les-Pins, making it a prime location to explore the rest of the French Riviera.
Named after the pine groves sheltering the shoreline, Juan-les-Pins’ natural beauty once provided inspiration for Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s works. Famous for its long, sandy beaches and pristine promenade lined with outdoor eateries, stylish beach clubs and fashion boutiques, Juan-les-Pins has everything you need for relaxing during the day and being entertained long into the night.
If you’re wanting to stay close to the hotel, head to the private beach club which offers rows of white sun loungers on the sand, terrace, and the hotel’s iconic jetty, stretching 50 metres into the sea. There’s an on-site spa for massages and relaxing treatments, or if thrill-seeking is your thing, visit the hotel’s esteemed water sports club and book yourself in for private water ski lessons across Golfe-Juan Bay.
For an insight into the town’s cultural heritage, Vieil Antibes (Old Town) is less than a 10-minute drive from the hotel. Here, you can wander winding cobblestone streets as you explore the medieval quarter; the Cathédrale Notre-Dame and the famous Musée Picasso found in the Château Grimaldi are particularly worth a visit. For music lovers, try to plan your visit around Jazz à Juan, an annual festival held every July welcoming talented jazz artists and promising newcomers since the 1960s.
Nearby, you’ll find the bustling city of Cannes, just a short 20-minute drive down the coast, with its legendary boulevard, La Croisette, home to a plethora of high-end hotels and private beach clubs.
In a nutshell
It may be nearly a century since Fitzgerald first called these shores home, but the breath-taking beauty and charm that first stole his heart and filled so much of his literary descriptions, lives on in this stunning Art Deco luxury boutique hotel. Staff work tirelessly to ensure your stay is as relaxing and memorable as possible, making this one destination you’ll dream of returning to long after you’ve left.
Factbox
Address: 33 Bd Edouard Baudoin, 06160 Juan-les-Pins, Cap D’Antibes, France
Phone: +33 4 93 61 02 79
Email: info@bellesrives.com
Website: bellesrives.com
