Words by Rowena Marella-Daw
Sardinia is a world unto itself. Although ranked as the Mediterranean’s second largest island (after Sicily), this less-trodden gem has a more enigmatic, intimate feel about it. The northern region of Gallura, in particular, is endowed with rugged coastlines and headlands rimmed with secluded coves framed by imposing granite rocks and boulders. Glimmering waters resembling liquid gems of jade, turquoise and ultramarine contrast against blinding white sand to create a mesmeric tableau that draws discerning visitors to these shores.
But it’s not just about the island’s natural beauty. Sardinia has its own culture and traditions owing to waves of ancient occupiers – the indigenous Nuragic civilisation, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals and Byzantines.
Alongside Italian, the native language, Sard or Sardinian lìmba sarda is widely spoken. And if there’s one local expression worth remembering when raising a glass to good health, it’s “A cent’anni!” or “May you live to a 100 years”. Indeed, this mantra seems to work, because Sardinia happens to be one of only five designated Blue Zones in the world with the highest concentration of centenarians. Life’s too short though, so let’s focus on making the most of this beautiful island.
Hotel
Protecting Sardinia’s natural beauty is paramount, and my destination, Hotel Capo d’Orso, is one of several luxury hotels leading the way towards preserving the island’s precious habitat. Set on the slopes of a private bay within Cala Capra park in the north east, this five-star property belongs to the Delphina family of hotels and resorts, the first Italian hotel chain to use 100 percent green energy from renewable sources.
Staying true to its ethos, Hotel Capo d’Orso was designed and built to blend in with nature, discreetly tucked within lush hills and vegetation. The hotel’s overall design is earthy and native – from handrails carved out of branches down to the stone walls and decorative accents showcasing local craftsmanship.
A labyrinth of narrow footpaths winding their way around dense greenery can be disorientating for first-time visitors like myself, but everyone eventually finds their way around. Each turn reveals a surprise; it could be a hammock with dreamy sea vistas, a wooden sundeck by the water’s edge, or a footpath leading to a private beach.
The native flora is dominated by Mediterranean scrub – juniper, pine and olive trees, myrtle bushes, laurels, cypresses, and the odd cacti, while secret gardens are brightened by copious beds of hydrangea and creeping bougainvillaea. Arriving in late May, I witnessed an abundance of jasmine blooms filling the air with their sweet fragrance, infusing a romantic vibe to this place.
Room
Hotel Capo d’Orso’s alfresco lounges, restaurants, thalasso pools, spa and restaurants are spread across terraced slopes with sweeping views of the sea and neighbouring islands. The same goes for all 86 rooms, the majority of which have either a veranda or balcony. Those with unobstructed views are most sought after, and my executive sea view junior suite has a spacious circular veranda from where I watched sailboats cruise along. The style and décor retain remnants of a bygone era (the hotel was built in the 80s), featuring wrought iron headboards, bathroom tiles and diamond-shape motifs on wall lamps.
Food
An alfresco breakfast on a sunny day is hard to beat, and the hotel provides plenty of seating options for couples who prefer either a private corner or a spacious terrace with sea views. The buffet and cooked breakfast are of high quality, and I was pleasantly surprised by the extensive range of gluten-free and dairy-free options on offer.
Romantic dining options are aplenty here. The view from Il Paguro restaurant’s terrace works up the appetite, and I strongly recommend arriving just before 7pm to get the best table. The menu changes daily, serving fresh catch, seafood specialities, and traditional dishes, such as Su Porcheddu (roast suckling pig) and my favourite dessert, Seadas – fried ravioli filled with soft cheese and topped with honey. Other intimate seaside dining settings include Gli Olivastri, surrounded by centuries old olive trees, Île Flottante and L’Approdo for pizza lovers.
Sardinian wines are excellent, but the Cannonau is known to have over three times more antioxidants than other red wines. Mirto is the islanders’ favourite pre- and post-dinner drink and Sardinia’s answer to the Limoncello. This deep purple tonic is distilled from Myrtle plant berries, and tastes similar to blackberries but sharper and more potent. It’s an acquired taste, and the less intense non-alcoholic Mirto-flavoured sorbet is quite refreshing, especially on a hot summer’s day.
Spa
Thalasso thermal pools vary from resort to resort, and based on my personal experience, bathing in temperature-controlled seawater rich in sodium and minerals comes with real health benefits. Set aside time to experience the three-level outdoor thalasso pools where hydromassage jets help to ease muscle aches and aid circulation.
It’s also reassuring to know that only micro-filters are used to purify the water as part of the hotel’s commitment to harnessing nature’s goodness. Those who fancy a pampering alfresco massage can book one at the L’Incantu Thalasso and SPA Centre.
To do
To do or not to do anything, that is the question. Some visitors will have already thought about activities they want to do at Hotel Capo d’Orso: climb up the granite hill where the bear statue awaits; explore the vibrant nearby town of Palau; explore La Maddalena archipelago, sail, play golf, hobnob with the jet-set at Porto Cervo in Costa Smeralda, or simply laze by the beach.
If you’ve got at least a week, you can do all of the above. But if you have just a few days, make a point of sailing around the bay and exploring cosy coves dotted around the La Maddalena, Caprera island, and the Costa Smeralda region. Some beaches are remote, accessible only by boat. Fortunately, Hotel Capo d’Orso has its own jetty, where a few motor boats for hire are moored, including its very own vintage 1927 vessel, the Pulcinella, which will certainly add a touch of glamour and nostalgia to the sailing experience.
On board a motor yacht, my companions and I perused the coastline before dropping anchor at two secluded beaches. The second, Cala Napoletana, is a sight to behold. Situated on the northernmost tip of Caprera, the cove is split into two intimate beaches by granite rocks. This remote spot can also be reached on foot, and those prepared to hike through rugged terrain for a good hour are rewarded with magnificent views. Arriving by boat gave us a different perspective, and while some brave souls dived into the cold water, I was quite happy to soak in the scenery and watch curious fish hover around.
The coastal town of Palau is a short drive from the hotel, and there’s a viewing point along the way. Palau has its share of fine beaches, as well as a main port from where regular ferry services transport visitors to La Maddalena. Palau is worth checking out for a bit of shopping. There’s a shop just opposite the marina selling a wide range of pasta and local specialities to take home.
In a nutshell
Northern Sardinia’s dramatic coastlines are undeniably the island’s crowning glory, and finding a sanctuary, such as Hotel Capo d’Orso, that helps to protect the natural environment, makes a difference.
But there’s much more of this island to explore. Mountains and rustic villages in the Highlands, ancient ruins, vineyards and farms – they are the foundations of Sardinia’s identity and pride. And if you’re curious to know the secrets of longevity among the island’s hardy centenarians, they love Pecorino cheese, drink Cannonau wine in moderation and lead an active life. I’ll drink to that.
Getting there
The nearest airport is Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport, and if you’re not keen on driving, private car and helicopter transfers can be arranged. The journey to Hotel Capo d’Orso along winding roads takes just under an hour, but time flies when you’re observing sweeping landscapes along the way.
Factbox
Hotel Capo d’Orso Thalasso and SPA is open for the season until 15th October 2022.
Rates per person per night in a double room start from €220 on half-board basis. If you’re planning a holiday to Sardinia for 2023, it’s best to book now to get the best rates and better choice of rooms.
Address: Cala Capra, Palau (SS), Sardinia
Phone: + 39 0789 790307
Email: reservations@hotelcapodorso.com
Website: hotelcapodorso.com
Hotel photography courtesy of Delphina hotels and resorts.
