“Tallinn….where’s that?” This was a common response I got when friends found out I was heading to the Estonian capital for a long weekend. Despite being barely a three-hour flight away from London, the medieval city is often overlooked by tourists in favour of its Nordic neighbours, which is a real shame as its unique culture, history, and accessible size make for the ideal city break.
One of the three Baltic states, Estonia shares land borders with Russia and Latvia and is a short ferry ride away from Sweden and Finland. Its history plays out like a saga in the Middle Ages with tales of Vikings, plagues, religious warfare, medieval traders, and invaders, leading to German, Russian, and Scandinavian influences seen throughout the city.
Hotel
Situated right in the heart of the historic Old Town, Hotel Telegraaf is an emblem of old-meets-new. Housed in a 19th-century building that was once the Estonian Telegraph, the five-star luxury hotel is designed in a mix of modern and Art Deco styles and proudly celebrates its past as a communications hub. Though the ground floor was once a bank, it was the building’s time as a post and telegraph office that cemented its place in Tallin’s history.
The staircase where Estonian general Ernst Põdder shot a rebel communist soldier still stands to this day, and guests will find working antique telephones, postmark prints, and suites named after inventors William Morse, Alexander Graham Bell, Werner von Siemens, and Alexander Popov throughout the property. Part of the Autograph Collection, Hotel Telegraaf embraces Tallin’s unique culture whilst providing guests with all the comforts a modern traveller desires within a stone’s throw of the medieval city.
Room
The property houses 83 rooms and suites, divided into two wings. Our executive junior suite benefitted from a king-size bed, a work desk, with one of the hotel’s special antique telephones, and a roomy sitting area with views out into the courtyard.
As we entered the room, we were surprised with a ‘Little Pillow Menu’ laying on the bed, with the option of selecting the perfect pillow to ensure a good night’s sleep: from a cherry stone pillow, to help relieve body aches and pains, to a horse hair pillow, for a hypo-allergenic way to cool hot heads, guests are sure to find the perfect pillow to fit their needs.
Food
The hotel’s Restaurant Tchaikovsky presents itself as a ‘symphony of Russian cuisine’ though it also brings French techniques and Estonian ingredients into its fine dining offering. Menu items include baked pumpkin terrine served with a Gruyere foam and sea buckthorn sorbet; dumplings stuffed with wild mushroom and beef with a mushroom puree, parmesan hollandaise sauce, and lingonberries; and roasted duck with Jerusalem artichoke puree, apple-ginger jam, and a demi-glace made from Vermouth.
Breakfast was also served in the cosy space, where a daily buffet was on offer along with a selection of continental breakfast dishes, juices, and coffee. For those looking for a late-night tipple, head bartender Risto Viljur conjures up tasty cocktails in the Lobby Bar for dinner guests and night owls alike.
Spa
The sauna culture is one Estonians are very proud of – we even visited the Iglupark in the Noblessner district, where visitors can look out onto the sea whilst sweating it out in an igloo sauna – and the team at Hotel Telegraaf makes sure their guests can take part in this tradition with their very own spa.
Located in the hotel’s new wing, which was rebuilt after a WWII bomb destroyed the former building in 1940, the spa offers a range of beauty and wellness treatments alongside the opportunity to take a dip in the 10-metre pool or relax in the jacuzzi, steam bath, or sauna.
To do
The hotel’s location is one of the things we loved most about our stay. Right in the middle of the Old Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, we were just a short walk away from all the beautiful spots that make Tallinn reminiscent of a fairy-tale kingdom.
Along with our tour guide Jaan-Laur Tähepõld, we trekked up and down the city’s hills and winding streets to visit the opulent St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral; the town hall, where we encountered some feisty bar maids at the famous Kolmas Draakon tavern; the sprawling town wall, which was once part of the 13th-century fortification system that helped protect Tallinn from invaders; and the medieval Church of the Holy Spirit, filled with Gothic wooden sculptures, coats of arms and tombstones to honour the nobility and an impressive altar created by master Bernt Notke.
After walking up the north side of the Toompea hill, we arrived at the Kohtuotsa viewing platform where a small kiosk selling warm nuts and mulled wine greeted us, as did a stunning view of the city. Brick red roofs peeked out from the gentle dusting of snow that covered much of the city in mid-March, the towering spires from the Old Town reached for the clear blue sky as the Gulf of Finland beckoned in the background.
Despite its size, Estonia holds the title of being one of the world’s most innovative countries, boasting the greatest number of unicorn start-ups per capita in Europe. One such unicorn is mobility start-up Bolt, which made getting around the city even more convenient. Bolt Drive, the company’s car-sharing service, allowed us to access further parts of the city with ease.
We headed to the hip Telliskivi neighbourhood where we admired the exhibits at the Fotografiska museum, tried a variety of Latvian beers at the Valmiermuiža brewery, and browsed for souvenirs from the row of independent boutiques selling everything from art prints to eco-conscious fashion.
For those interested in exploring Tallin’s gastronomic scene, head to the Balti Jaam Market where you’ll get lost amidst the endless food stalls and deli counters. Another option is to take a short drive out to Noa Restoran, a seaside dining destination where you’ll enjoy a delicious, seasonal meal with epic views to boot.
In a nutshell
There’s an Estonian proverb that says: ‘Aja raiskamine on enda eest varastamine’, which translates to ‘Wasting time is stealing from oneself”. In today’s fast-paced world, we don’t often have the luxury of time to discover, to explore, or to be with those who matter most.
A stay at Hotel Telegraaf means guests don’t have to choose between living in luxury and being just steps away from the best spots in the magical city of Tallinn. Whether you’d like to spend your time waltzing through storied streets or simply melting your troubles away in a traditional sauna, this iconic property in the Old Town will be ready to cater for your next city break.
Factbox
Address: Vene 9, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia
Phone: +372 600 0600
Website: telegraafhotel.com
Instagram: instagram.com/telegraafhotel
For more tips on exploring Estonia, check out Visit Estonia.
