I’ll be honest, I’m no snow bunny, my idea of a holiday generally involves sun, sea and sand. But within five minutes of stepping foot inside the glittering, glamorous Kulm Hotel St. Moritz – a stunning five-star resort surrounded by sparkling snow and ice-capped mountains – it’s safe to say I’m a convert.
Location
As the road winds into St. Moritz, Kulm Hotel stands proud on the hillside overlooking the frozen lake. This is a hotel that has been at the heart of this exclusive resort for more than a century and, in fact, trailblazed the way for winter sports in the region.
Europe’s first winter holiday resort, St. Moritz had traditionally been a destination for summer visitors until the Kulm’s founder – visionary Johannes Badrutt – began to tell guests of the magic of the area in the winter. In an alleged bet, he told a group of regular British visitors to return for Christmas and, if they didn’t enjoy it, he’d cover the costs of their whole trip. Needless to say, they fell in love with the winter wonderland and returned year after year, spreading the word amongst their friends back in the UK.
Hotel
When you step inside the Kulm Hotel, you are following in the footsteps of history. The elite hotel was founded, created and shaped by pioneers and visionaries who would lay the groundwork to kickstart not only a Europe-wide winter holiday industry, but also inspire new hobbies and Olympic sports that we still watch today.
With a history stretching back as far as winter sports themselves, St. Moritz has cemented itself on the world map as one of the finest and most exclusive winter resorts to visit. With that prestigious reputation comes high prices and a luxury lifestyle to boot. The small town’s high street is packed full of designer stores from Burberry to Hermès to Prada.
Kulm Hotel has a prominent spot in the centre of town, at an altitude of 1,800m, just a short walk (or even shorter shuttle ride) from the funicular up to the runs overhead. It overlooks Lake St. Moritz which freezes over every winter to become the centre of many of the region’s most prominent and celebrated events, from the ice polo to the horse racing and sleigh rides. There’s 500km of hiking trails to explore, 220km of cross-country ski tracks and 350km of downhill ski runs so you’ll never run out of things to do.
Room
Kulm Hotel started life in 1855 as a 12-room guest house and today boasts 164 unique and exquisite rooms and suites, most with breath-taking views of the lake. They’re all elegantly designed, some in a classic and traditional style, and others which have been recently and tastefully renovated by renowned designer Pierre-Yves Rochon.
We were staying in a deluxe double with a large king-sized bed and a beautiful sun-drenched balcony overlooking the frozen lake. Mirrors reflect the stunning view so you can see the landscape from every angle and even the bathroom – with its peep-hole window – means you can still feel the outside inside at just the touch of a button to raise the privacy blinds.
My favourite element of the clever and contemporary design is the incorporation of the rich and aromatic Swiss stone pine that lines the entrance hall. The wood – which only grows at a certain altitude and is native to the area – celebrates the setting and is said to have healing qualities and improve sleep.
No matter your request, the concierge team is always on hand to help out – whether you’ve left your ski jacket in your wardrobe at home (guilty as charged!) or you want to book a table at one of the hotel’s seven popular eateries. The team is at the end of the phone and is happy to oblige.
Food and drink
Our first night we were treated to dinner in the cosy and charming surroundings of Kulm Country Club. The restaurant, situated next door to the main hotel complex and with a large terrace overlooking the ice rink, is a warm and romantic setting which celebrates the fascinating history of the hotel and the town’s intrinsic link with winter sports and the Olympics.
Built in 1928 for the Winter Olympics, there are hints to its past everywhere, from the stones that prop open the heavy wooden doors, the thick fur throws which cover the seats, and the toboggans and sleds that adorn the walls and suspend from the ceiling. Twinkling candles light the tables creating an intimate and relaxing setting. The staff were friendly and welcoming, ushering us through to a table with views over the now dark valley.
We started with an aperitif – they kindly made me a virgin cocktail that wasn’t on the menu – before sampling a light, fresh Caesar salad and the delicious roasted vegetable tarte flambe (a must have if you’re visiting) which was thin and crispy but packed full of creamy, cheesy flavour.
My husband chose the veal osso buco – slow-cooked, fall-off-the-bone veal sitting on a bed of vibrant saffron risotto and smothered in a thick gravy with vegetables. I went for the truffle and ricotta ravioli with almond crumb; a rich but earthy filling in freshly-made pasta, washed down with red wine. For dessert, it had to be the chocolate souffle – a sweet chocolate pudding with a thick ganache oozing from the centre, topped with vanilla ice cream and fresh berries, while he made a special request of affogato.
The staff were attentive and helpful, and couldn’t have been more accommodating. The casual setting made for an enjoyable and relaxing dining experience, made even better by a number of canine guests who were also enjoying their evening at the Country Club.
Our second night was spent at the colourful, vibrant Sunny Bar. Founded in 1884, it’s the oldest sports bar in the Alps and was the social base for the group of holiday-makers who founded the Cresta run; a historic sport which evolved into the skeleton which we still see in the Winter Olympics today. Inspired by the fun, frivolity, and camaraderie that led to the Cresta, the Sunny Bar has an upbeat ‘party’ vibe with informal dining, friendly and chatty staff, and creative food.
The Sunny Bar’s Peruvian cuisine – from the mind of acclaimed chef Claudia Canessa – is delicate, refined and beautifully presented in an explosion of colour, flowers and flare. We had a mixture of street finger foods to start, including tuna ceviche and crispy plantain with dips, which were packed full of flavour.
For mains, we chose the grilled seabass and marinated chicken, which were both delicious, and the team prepared us a special tasting platter of desserts to finish off. The food here is exquisitely put together and presented but is, ultimately, no-nonsense food that tastes good and looks good; and makes you feel good. It’s food that’s good for the soul, and the tastebuds!
What really makes this eatery stand out is the wonderfully flamboyant and fun staff who made us feel incredibly welcome, and even showed off the Cresta Club’s initiation challenge, involving rings suspended from the ceiling! In the winter, the bar is home to the social gatherings of the Cresta Club while, in the summer, it becomes a celebration of music with midnight concerts during the town’s jazz festival.
In total, there are seven dining options available at the Kulm during the peak winter season, including the pop-up Michelin-starred restaurant The K and a laid-back pizzeria. The Grand Restaurant – hosting formal dinners and daily breakfast – is located in St. Moritz’s largest ballroom (which was even the home to the first electric light lit in Switzerland!).
Spa
When you visit a resort like St. Moritz, nestled in the mountains, action and adventure is really what it’s all about. Whether skiing in the winter, mountain biking in the summer, or hiking up the peaks, it’s all about being outdoors here.
But after a busy, action-packed day on the slopes, the team at the Kulm will ensure you’re well catered to at the stunning panoramic spa and health club. This spectacular spa is perched on the mountain side and has huge floor-to-ceiling glass windows making the most of the breath-taking views out across the lake and to the snow-capped peaks beyond.
Sun streams through the windows, dancing across the water of the 20m-long indoor pool and warming your skin as you relax on the loungers. I’ve visited a lot of spas – some of the best in the UK, for sure – but I don’t think I’ve ever visited a spa with a view to rival Kulm Hotel’s picturesque vista over the St. Moritzersee lake and mountains.
During our visit in March – as winter made way for spring – life was beginning to thaw and the dense greenery of the pine trees started to sprout back to life. Woodland clings to the rocky outcrops and climb up the mountainside meeting the blanket of snow that still sits on the peaks.
In the warmth of the spa, a large whirlpool wraps around the corner and makes the most of the vistas while steams floats atop the bath-like outdoor pool where you can enjoy the fresh air and jets. The relaxation area offers a salt room, steam room and infrared treatment cabin to help ease those aching ski legs, and there’s also a tranquil lounge where you can sink into a water bed and drift off to sleep while still enjoying those exquisite views.
The 2,000sq.m spa is all about relaxation and is designed to ensure guests can enjoy peace, comfort and harmony; and it certainly ticks all of these boxes!
Skiing
Now, I am by no means any kind of mountaineer or ski expert and I do not consider myself to have any knowledge, other than a few drunken university ski trips, qualifying me to comment on skiing with any true level of expertise; however, I am married to a seasonnaire and self-confessed ski junkie, so that does afford me the luxury of access to someone who does know what they’re talking about when it comes to pistes, snow conditions and general skibility (yes, I did make that word up!) of a resort.
Engadine is a relatively small ski area and experienced, confident skiers could explore most of the valley in a day or two. The area is, however, a great place for families and for novice skiers (I include myself in this category as, although I’ve completed around six weeks of skiing, I am most-definitely a fair-weather skier!).
We arrived in St. Moritz just days ahead of the end of the winter season so much of the snow had retreated and the ice-cold weather was making way for sunny, blue-sky days; perhaps unsurprising given that the area boasts an average of 322 days of sunshine a year! Perfect. Kulm has its own on-site ski rental shop so it was easy to collect my equipment for the trip and then we were ready to go!
The ski runs in the higher altitudes were lovely; large open, wide blue and red runs meandered down the mountain to buzzing restaurants with sun-drenched terraces, and vibrant bars with après music pumping out over the valley. The layer of soft, fluffy powder made it a joy to carve across the piste but as you reached the lower levels the slopes became slushy and hard work.
Getting up to the pistes was a little bit of a faff but the Kulm team makes it as easy as possible. A heated boot room means your equipment is ready to go each morning and the team will collect you and whisk you up to the funicular so you can jump on with ease – although the journey is a little bit tedious! However, once you’re up in the snowy peaks, it’s easy to glide from lift to lift with ease.
Activities
Kulm has lots to do during the winter months; there’s an ice rink to enjoy plus trails across the lake for hiking, as well as access to cross-country skiing and snow shoe hikes. In the summer, guests can enjoy the hotel’s own nine-hole golf course. Nestled up amongst the evergreens on the mountain side, it is the highest golf course in the Alps and one of the oldest in Europe.
And Kulm is a wonderful destination for families. The kids’ club offers a jam-packed roster of activities – all free of charge – while the hotel also provides free ski lessons for all kids under 12, giving parents a chance to enjoy some time alone while safe in the knowledge that their children are being well looked after.
In a nutshell
Kulm Hotel St. Moritz is a comfortable, luxurious, special place to spend time. But it’s not just any five-star hotel; it’s a historic building, a cultural hub, the birthplace of alpine skiing, and staying within it brings you closer to the fascinating heritage that has shaped this exclusive resort and the mountain range around it.
Factbox
Deluxe double rooms start from 1,405CHF in the winter season, based on two people sharing on a half-board basis.
Address: Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland
Phone: +41 81 836 80 00
Website: kulm.com
Hotel imagery courtesy of Kulm Hotel St. Moritz.
