Words by Renate Ruge
This ivy-covered villa ensconced in Italy’s sparkling Franciacorta region overlooks Lake Iseo in Lombardy. A veritable haven for foodies, wine lovers and wellness travellers alike, replete with gourmet restaurants, first-class spa and top wineries right on your doorstep.
Holidaying in Italy is wonderful at any time of year, though there’s something to be said for travelling as summer fades and the crowds abate, like in autumn, resplendent in deep orange hues, grapes hanging heavy on the vines ready to be plucked or in the springtime when fields blush crimson with carpets of poppies.
Chic retreat L’Albereta is a destination itself, set in the vine-blanketed hills that stretch between Lombardy’s mountains and Lakes, just an hour’s drive from Milan or half an hour from Bergamo, which teaming with Brescia, are Italy’s Capitals of Culture for 2023.
This region, famous for its sparkling Franciacorta wines is dotted with stellar cellar doors like neighbouring Bellavista, also one of the area’s most impressive and owned by famous vintners, the Moretti family, who’re also the proprietors of L’Albereta and its sister property L’Andana in Tuscany.
It’s the perfect place for a relaxing and indulgent stay – check in and you may never want to leave.
Hotel
Our transfer from Bergamo, where my husband and I flew in, was in a smart black Merc. Picturesque scenery, punctuated by historic castles flew by as we wound our way around Lombardy’s country roads to Erbusco to L’Albereta, a Relais and Chateaux hotel.
Through grand gates, we pulled up at this smart nineteenth century villa with its ornate entrance. The villa is surrounded by lush, carefully tended gardens, with paths leading to woodland dotted with modern sculptures as part of an art trail which also leads to Bellavista’s imposing cellar door.
Warmly greeted at the entrance, where check-in is fast and friendly, herbal tea and iced water were on standby to revive weary travellers.
Inside, the villa’s interiors are a pleasing blend of modern and classic décor. I was just thinking how cosy it feels as my husband nodded to the large sofas surrounding an open fire in the snug. I made a mental note to retrace our steps for after-dinner drinks later.
Room
Soaring ceilings and antique furniture reflect a relaxed yet exclusive ambience. L’Albereta has 53 rooms, all well-appointed and effortlessly luxurious. There are 31 double and twin bedrooms, 21 junior suites and one cabriolet suite, each unique in style, some enjoying views of rolling vineyards, others with sweeping vistas of Lake Iseo and the Alps beyond.
Carefully curated flower arrangements, well-chosen sculptures and artwork throughout the property lend a traditional flavour, Italian flair flowing as freely as the wine.
Rooms are inviting – ours decorated in warm golden tones with luxurious velvet armchairs, canopy and cushions and decorative touches. Our classic room has a queen-size bed, flatscreen TV, bathrobes, slippers, minibar and a walk-in closet. The Italian marble bathroom is equipped with hydro-massage bathtub and shower.
Signature Suites go up in size, and luxe factor. In ascending order: The Cabriolet Suite, has a private balcony facing Lake Iseo, and a fancy retracting roof above its huge four-poster king bed, perfect for star gazing at night and by day ushering in fresh lake breezes.
For those looking for a more spacious pied a terre, the larger Lake Tower suite with its pink pastel walls has a huge living area, four-poster king beds and panoramic views, while families might go for the super luxe Contadi Tower suite or deluxe super luxe suite each composed of two adjoining bedrooms, set over two floors connected by interior stairs.
Also perfect as a private retreat for families or groups and once home to the villa’s caretaker, Casa del Bosco has two deluxe rooms and a junior suite. The best views of the vineyards are to be found on the top floor of the villa, in the Bellavista Tower, and the exclusive Grand Bellavista suite.
Service is discreet and prompt with 24-hour room service, laundry/dry cleaning, twice-daily maid service, water offered daily, and Wi-Fi free throughout.
Food and drink
As the resort’s a little way from the nearest town of Erbusco, some fifteen minutes by car, the hotel itself has plentiful options to keep guests well fed, while lunch or dinner at one of the many nearby wineries is also a must.
In house, breakfast is a simple affair served indoors – and out –at Stanza 54, where you can expect pastries, homemade jams and spreads, fresh fruit juices, cheese and cold cuts with a menu to order hot options with eggs cooked to order, any which way. (I can vouch for the scrambled eggs served with a side of crispy pancetta). The coffee is excellent, as you might expect, we’re in Italy, after all.
This chic lounge area is also the place to drop in for daytime light bites. Surrounded by three terraces, it’s a lovely setting to enjoy lunch or afternoon tea al fresco with vineyard views. Come evening, there’s aperitivo where the classic negroni is highly recommended.
L’Albereta’s four gourmet restaurants include Ristorante LeoneFelice, a highlight of its culinary offering, where the large terrace opens to mesmerising views of Lake Iseo, also where chef Fabio Abbattista serves up delectable local cuisine with traditional rustic Italian fare and a modern twist.
Watching the chefs at work behind a glass wall, we enjoyed the regional signature of saffron risotto, followed up by pan-fried scallops with cauliflower puree and perfectly roasted lamb shank – the meat falling off the bone – teamed with a side of creamy mash. A deconstructed lemon meringue pie and cheese board featuring deliciously smooth gorgonzola rounded off our excellent meal. The service is wonderfully attentive.
With an encyclopaedic wine list, recommendations from the sommelier result in top selections and perfect pairings. Go early, stay late, and enjoy a grand dinner followed by a night cap in front of the fire.
Found a few minutes’ walk down a garden path is La Filiale, a small circular-shaped restaurant. This informal two-storey pizzeria serves award-winning Franco Pepe pizzas and even the simplest is superb. Not just any margarita, La Filiale’s version comes with fresh San Marzano tomatoes, oregano and garlic, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and baked to perfection in the stone oven. While it’s a winner, the pizza Scarpetta, made with fresh buffalo mozzarella, aged grana Padano cream and flakes, tomato compote and sprinkled with basil powder is a revelation.
Hungry locals queue up for tables, so reserving a spot ahead of time advisable. Reasonably priced wines from the local Franciacorta region and beyond are the perfect accompaniment for a casual meal.
The ‘health-forward’ Ristorante Benessere is reserved for guests of the Espace Chenot Health and Wellness SPA which provides respite from the decadence as it serves excellent light spa-style dishes for those looking to maintain a ‘bella figura’.
Spa
For a relaxing way to spend your day or an afternoon post exploring, luxurious destination Espace Chenot Spa provides the ultimate retreat, wrapped around a grand circular staircase, encompassing 14 treatment rooms and a relaxation area with myriad flavoured waters with herbs and fruit teas.
Downstairs, surrounding the glorious indoor pool, are indoor hydrotherapy pools and an outdoor lap pool. There’s also a private sauna, steam bath and Turkish bath, bookable by timeslots. Fluffy robes, towels, slippers and kit bags are all provided as are the hotel’s own deliciously scented l’A Hotel organic toiletries.
A ‘dream team’ of expert masseuses, doctors, dietitians, osteopaths, and wellness coaches employ holistic screening for customised wellness programmes that promise to help restore body and mind, with advice on diet, weight-loss, stress management and excellent vitality boosting medical spa treatments created by Henri Chenot like Phyto mud therapy.
To do
Aside from wine tasting, which really should be at the top of any visitor’s lists here – especially if it involves a vineyard tour and sampling award-winning drops of sparkling Franciacorta at nearby Bellavista Winery or Contadi Castaldi – there are leisure and sports facilities aplenty and a host of wellness experiences at the lavish Espace Chenot Health and Wellness SPA onsite.
The outdoor pool is the perfect place to dive in for a cooling summer swim. For the rest of the year, take a dip in the serene heated candlelit indoor pool – though it’s hard to drag yourself away from with its comfortable loungers, jacuzzi and experience showers.
Shoppers will find all manner of upscale souvenirs including luxe toiletries and candles at L’Albereta’s Boutique and the Hairstyle Studio is bookable for cuts and blow-dries.
There’s a fully equipped gym and fitness classes, plus plentiful options for outdoor pursuits: canoe on Lake Iseo, practice your golf, and tee off at like a pro at nearby courses, play tennis at the onsite courts, hike or go mountain biking.
We chose the cycling option, enjoying a wonderfully atmospheric tour around nearby vineyards aboard electric bikes, reaching places inaccessible by car and drinking in spectacular lake views – a memorable way to tour the region and easily arranged by concierge.
Even cycling novices like me can enjoy sailing through the vines on two wheels. Luckily, I was under the expert supervision of local guide Giam Pietro, his patience bordering on saintly as he guided me on the right road, pointing out pitfalls of the rocky terrain off-road. Alternatively, a pleasant amble around nearby vineyards on a 4km (2.5 miles) designated walking path might work off some of the decadence.
Trips to Lake Iseo and Montisola, Bergamo, Brescia, and Verona can also be arranged. Nearby Lake Iseo is a local secret worth the trip alone and is a less touristy option than Lake Como.
In a nutshell
L’Albereta is a stunning place for a serene and luxurious retreat. The crisp Alpine air, the lake breezes, relaxing days at the stellar destination spa, walks in the woods, bike rides through vineyards, a fantastic food and wine offering and the comfort of luxe interiors in a historic villa, filled with Italian panache, are all ingredients for a rejuvenating and romantic break in the Italian countryside. And there’s no better time to visit as nearby Brescia and Bergamo are Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2023.
Factbox
Getting there – Found in Franciacorta wine country, near Lake Iseo, L’Albereta is just an hour’s drive from Milan. Milan Bergamo International Airport (BGY ) is 18 miles away by car. You can also fly to Milan Linate International airport (LIN), 44 miles away or Verona Villafranca Airport (VRN), 49 miles away. Rovato is the nearest train station located just four miles from the hotel with a regular train service to Milan. The resort also has a helipad.
L’Albereta, Franciacorta offers double rooms from €360 per night based on two sharing on a bed and breakfast basis.
Address: L’Albereta Via Vittorio Emanuele, 23 25030 Erbusco, Brescia
Phone: +39 030 7760550
Website: albereta.it
