Words by Mark Hodson
There’s a commonly held belief that Phuket is over-developed and spoilt. That may be true of some parts of the island, but not so on the north-west beach of Mai Khao, seven miles of pristine sands lined with coconut palms and protected by National Park status.
The newest five-star hotel to open there is the Meliá Phuket Mai Khao, offering a uniquely Spanish twist on contemporary Asian styling. The look is whitewashed modernism softened by lush tropical vegetation, and there’s a strong emphasis on wellness and total relaxation.
Hotel
Isolation, pampering and privacy are the keywords at the Meliá Phuket Mai Khao. Some guests barely step from their walled suites and you can wander up and down the beach at any time of day and hardly see another soul. Even sun beds and parasols are outlawed under National Park regulations. Come if you want to hide away from the world, or a few days chilling out after a busy tour of Thailand. The sunsets can be spectacular.
The hotel’s footprint is a wedge shape bordered on either side by farmland and palm trees. The thin end of the wedge is a show-stopping 62-metre long pool, which ends at the beach, with loungers, sun shades and couples’ pavilions along one side. There’s a second, quieter pool, plus a well-equipped gym, function room and a small children’s playroom.
I was there in November 2022, a year after its pandemic-delayed opening, and the hotel’s grounds looked gorgeous. There’s a collection of orchids dotted around, with each variety identified by QR code. The designers have also taken care over the sound of the property – as well as birdsong and frogs croaking in the early evening, there’s a constant trickle of hidden water, plus a total lack of noisy neighbours.
And, of course, this is Thailand, so the staff are among the most caring, attentive and polite you will find anywhere.
Room
There are 30 suites (78 square metres) and 70 villas (85 square metres), all very private. Some have an outdoor tub and a day bed in a small garden hidden by foliage and filigree walls; some have plunge pools. You can even opt for a Wellness Villa with a daily in-room massage and other extras including a vitamin-C shower. Understandably, the resort is popular with couples and honeymooners.
All rooms offer the highest spec throughout, with extremely comfortable beds, blackout blinds and Nespresso coffee machines. I particularly liked the indoor-outdoor rain shower. The rooms are housed in buildings lettered from A to P. Building A is closest to reception and the higher letters (L, M, N, P) are closer to the beach, hence more desirable.
Food
There are two restaurants. Breakfast is served inside air-con Sasa with a few tables outdoors on the terrace. There’s an impressive buffet with everything from freshly-baked pastries and guava juice to Asian favourites such as dim sum and congee, plus Spanish touches – chorizo and pan con tomate. Guests can also order unlimited a la carte.
Lunch and dinner are served in the stylish open-walled Gaia Beach Club restaurant with a mix of Asian and Mediterranean dishes. My impression was that the kitchen had struggled to find its mark, but the arrival of a new executive chef, Alec Lomas, fresh from running a culinary school in Bangkok, has brought a new direction and experienced kitchen recruits: his signature dish of sirloin with corn and salsa verde was sensational.
Spa
The YHI Spa – unique to Meliá properties – has a distinct Thai flavour here with local organic ingredients used amongst the plant-based products, and treatments inspired by traditional Thai massage. There are five treatment rooms, and a relaxation terrace overlooking a watermelon farm where, after your treatment, you’ll be served tea made with pandan leaves. Both men’s and women’s changing rooms have their own sauna and showers.
To do
In common with most hotels in Thailand, independent vendors have set up nearby and you can get a massage on a covered wooden platform on the beach at a cost of 500 baht (£12) for one hour. Many guests experience both this and the hotel spa. Equally, there’s a good family-run Thai restaurant next door, facing onto the beach.
You can borrow one of the hotel’s collection of bicycles for three hours at no charge and explore local villages and beaches. In half an hour you’ll reach the beach beside the airport where you can stand beneath the aircraft as they roar in – lots of fun. Five minutes away (or a short taxi ride) is Yenjai, a simple local restaurant named for the owner, who was a chef at five-star hotels but is now semi-retired and runs this charming little place, open daily 11am-9pm, serving authentic Thai dishes. Golf can also be arranged on Phuket.
Factbox
Getting there – Several airlines fly from Bangkok to Phuket with a flying time of less than 90 minutes. A taxi from Phuket Airport to the hotel costs 600 baht (£12) – you can book and pay in the arrivals hall.
Rooms at the Meliá Phuket Mai Khao start at £153 per night for two people including breakfast and taxes. (High season rates from £200).
Address: 233 Moo 3, Tambon Mai Khao, Amphur Thalang, Phuket, Thailand
Phone: +66 0 76 563 550
Website: melia.com