Words by Shalbha Sarda
As I sped down the fast-moving highway, a sudden urge to explore the uncharted roads led me to take a dusty village road. I meandered through the little houses and happy children waving at me with amused looks. A few kilometres down the path, the trees began to get sparse, and so did the people. I couldn’t spot any human settlements for a while, wondering if I had lost my way, and just then, a sandcastle, Mihir Garh – the fortress of the sun, rose effortlessly and camouflaged itself in the shades of gold that enveloped it.
Forts are often regarded as remnants of the past, and rightfully so. But for the Singhs of Rohet, Jodhpur has an imbibed love for forts; after all, they are royals. They dared to build one in the middle of nowhere, not for defence or to display their power, but to offer their discerning clientele a taste of ‘dolce far niente’, the sweetness of doing nothing.
Hotel
While the closest city, Jodhpur, has its share of palaces and forts steeped in history, which have now been converted into luxurious hotels, Mihir Garh stands out as the only one built from scratch in modern times.
Thakur Siddharth Singh has a deep bond with these dune villages around Rohet. One afternoon, he stumbled upon a dune called ‘Mali Nathji ka Dhora’, a sacred dune dedicated to the Warrior God Hero of Marwar, and felt an immediate connection to it. He frequented the dune, getting used to the quietness, the dance of the shrubs, and the occasional voice of a peacock. It felt like the dune spoke to him, and he was convinced that he wanted to share this gift with others.
Thus, began the story of Mihir Garh, a tale of passion and love. His wife, Rashmi Singh, started visualising every detail, from macro to micro levels. Mihir Garh has those quintessential parapets, turrets, watchtowers, and spiral staircases of Rajasthani forts. It reflects the family’s highly evolved sensibility towards local traditions, further honed with an architectural perspective.
Room
Siddharth and Rashmi ensured Mihir Garh is deeply rooted in this land, with Rashmi explaining: “More than 100 local craftsmen and carpenters had worked tirelessly for two years to create nine 1,700sq ft suites. Whether mirror work fireplaces, cutwork drapes, embroidered tapestries, and hand-woven rugs, the door knobs or the lampshades are all classic western Rajasthani. The village women have created the fireplaces using age-old cow dung and clay techniques.”
The amenities at Mihir Garh create a paradox from the ruggedness outside. Boasting a large sitting room with a bedroom, free-standing bathtubs, curved showers, and all the modern electronic equipment one might expect from any Relais and Châteaux properties. In summer, the ground floor Alishan Suite, with its private plunge pool and the sun-drenched deck, is criminally indulgent. The Shandaar suite with a rooftop jacuzzi and a private terrace to bask in the sun is an excellent option for the winter months.
Within the fort’s stylish sprawl in its courtyards, alcoves, terraces and niches, you will find your corners to doze off and sink in the desert’s nothingness. The infinity edge pool surrounds a slate-tiled deck replete with deep couches and cushioned loungers. There is also a riding stable, temple and library inside the premises.
Food and drink
Dining and drinking areas include a lounge, bar areas, a dining room, and a barbecue terrace, and the bar serves a range of liquors and classic cocktails.
The recipes of the Mihir Garh menu come from books authored by the owner’s mother, Late Thakurani Sahiba Jayendra Kumari, and then given a modern twist to cater to its international guests. Mango Gazpacho, a spiced cold soup; Hara Tamatar, a sweet green tomato curry; and Safed Aloo, mini potatoes blended with yoghurt and traditional spices, are must-try dishes.
To do
Book yourself a dinner experience at the Rohetgarh, the residence of the Singhs. This 16th-century mansion is a luxury guest house and serves an authentic Rajasthani thali experience.
Sign up for village safaris that showcase the opium ceremony, an amusing insight into the life of villagers, or to spot some wildlife, including the endangered black buck. For experienced riders, the property has an equestrian programme with famed Marwari breed horses..
In a nutshell
Mihir Garh is one of the world’s most extraordinary hotels for a reason. Its charm lies in catering to the refined tastes of those seeking to relish in slow, immersive travel. Here, one may bask in the glory of the nocturnal heavens and marvel at the vast expanse of the earth’s dusty infinity – all while luxuriating in a setting that exudes opulence, even in the heart of the wilderness.
Factbox
Address: Village, Khandi, Rajasthan 306421, India
Phone: +91 124 465 4330
Website: houseofrohet.com
