Arriving at Sabi Sabi’s Selati Camp is to step back in safari time. This intimate small camp of just seven suites, on a private game reserve adjoining South Africa’s renowned Kruger National Park, nostalgically recalls an era of luxuriously indulgent safaris.
Shaded by jackalberry trees, Selati Camp tells stories of South Africa as an adventurous frontier land. Six of the seven suites are named after stations on the Selati railway line that was built in the 19th century to haul gold from the Transvaal to the coast. The seventh suite is the grandiose, decadent Ivory Presidential Suite.
Life in the early days of the Selati Line, a costly construction in terms of both finance and human life, was challenging. Passengers waiting at the stations were equipped with ladders to clamber into the trees if lions approached.
Most guests fly in via tiny thatched-terminal Skukuza airport which connects with Johannesburg and Cape Town. Guests are met at the airport by a driver for the 40-minute transfer to Selati Camp. Essentially, with crocodiles, elephants, giraffes and vultures seen en-route this is a game drive.
Selati Camp
Located within the 230 square miles of the Sabie game reserve, Selati stylishly represents yesterday. Travellers seeking today, settle into the larger and more contemporary Bush Camp. Introducing the safari of tomorrow, Earth Lodge is a vision of an eco-friendly future. Additionally, there is Little Bush Camp, a peaceful retreat perfect for couples.
Detached rondavel-style houses clustered round reception and restaurant have the look of a traditional Tsonga village. As we arrive, we are welcomed with a chilled citronella-infused flannel and an iced rock shandy. Lawrence sits us down in a bar that could have been a 1900s whisky-and-leather-sofa gentleman’s club to tell us how things run.
“There are no fences. Elephant, hyenas, leopards and lion walk through the camp. In the daytime you’ll see them. When it’s dark tell us when you want to go back to your suite, and we’ll accompany you.”
The suite
Mosquito nets draped around a vast four poster bed have an Out of Africa grandeur. Safari aficionado Ernest Hemingway would have loved the all-inclusive chunky timbered bar topped with a sherry decanter.
Forget miniatures, there are full size bottles of wines and spirits. Beers and mixers chill in the fridge. Also, there is a selection of gleaming glasses for beer, cocktails, sherry and shorts that would put many a bar to shame.
A sumptuous sofa invites guests to relax and flick through the ultimate glossy coffee-table book. Rael Loon, son of Sabi Sabi owners Hilton and Jacqui Loon, has created a book packed with astonishing wildlife photography that is an irresistible guide to a Sabi Sabi safari.
Our suite meanders into a dressing area featuring his-and-her raised granite basins looking out into the garden. In fact, the high dry-stone-walled garden is an al fresco bathroom with oval free-standing bath and rainfall shower. If that’s too cold, there is an indoor shower and bath beyond the dressing area.
Turn-down at Selati is regal: mosquito nets are unfurled, mineral water and glass placed on bedside tables, hot-water bottles warming beds when required, slippers and dressing gown ready. This is how aristocrats would have taken their safari in bygone ages.
Food and drink
Conraad, our ranger, tells us that there will be tea, coffee and rusks available, as the sun rises before our morning game drive. He had clearly forgotten the juices, fresh fruit, muesli, and yogurt also available. A serious breakfast is served after the game drive.
For a safari lodge of only seven rooms, Selati menus offer astounding variety. Lunch can range from a light ostrich and apricot wrap through to three courses. The dinner menu offers meat, poultry, fish and vegetarian options. Inevitably game features regularly. Though even the inventive Heston Blumenthal had probably not considered wildebeest with Cumberland sauce for his menus.
Meals are literally a movable feast. Depending on weather, al fresco breakfast may be served looking down on a watering hole where elephants, leopards, lions and rhinos are frequent visitors. Other options are on the covered podium overlooking the swimming pool or the indoor restaurant. Of course, no safari camp is complete without a boma for the braai.
Most drinks from the bar and some wines for dinner are covered by the all-inclusive price.
Activities
Precariously balanced on a seat in front of the vehicle, Donald guides our driving ranger Conraad. “Look for the small things and you’ll find the big things,” Donald advises. Donald seeks out tracks on the sandy trails, sniffs for leopard or lion pee, watches flickering tails amongst anxious antelope, listens for the territorial roar for a lion.
Sabi Sabi has a reputation for leopard and eventually Donald tracks down Nweti, a magnificent eight-year-old male, “Almost the size of a lioness,” says Donald admiringly. He has known Nweti, meaning Moon in the local lingo, since he was a cub.
Donald’s impeccable skills – he recently scored 135 out of 135 in an online tracking examination – find a vast herd of buffalo, followed by a four-year old male lion. For the afternoon game drive, we return to the buffalo herd, still discreetly watched by the patient lion hours later.
“At some point he’ll have to gamble. If he makes a kill – and the chances of that are only around 10% – he will have food for a week. He’s risking his own life too. One kick from a buffalo could kill him. The thing is that buffalo are top of his menu.”
After sunset the game drive becomes a sky safari. Free of light pollution, Conraad guides us through the Southern Cross and a view of the millions of stars that make up the Milky Way.
For a break from the game drives, guests can book a driver to them to the spa and gym at neighbouring Earth Lodge, just 15 minutes away.
In a nutshell
Sabi Sabi Selati Camp is an authentic taste of old world style, a safari camp lit by flickering lanterns. Astoundingly, deep in the bush, culinary standards and service are beyond those found in many a city. Spotters and rangers are at the top of their profession not just finding the Big Five but explaining animal psychology too.
Factbox
The cost: From £975 per person based on two sharing a room. This is inclusive of all meals, two three-hour game drives per day, the mini bar and most drinks from the bar and with meals.
Address: Sabi Sabi Selati Camp, Sabie Game Reserve, Sabi Sand Wiltuin, 1350, South Africa
Phone: +27 13 735-5771
Website: sabisabi.com
Photography courtesy of Sabi Sabi.
