Words by Shalbha Sarda
My train pulled into the quiet, predawn hours of early September on the platform of Jaisalmer, the fabled city on the edge of India in Rajasthan, surrounded by desert and dotted by historical mansions, ornate palaces and ancient ruins. Even in the darkness, the desert’s presence was unmistakable; the air remarkably lighter to breathe, carrying an early morning chill and the sweet scent of petrichor.
A sharply dressed driver, holding an ornate placard bearing my name proudly displaying the Surayagarh emblem, stood with unwavering attention. I couldn’t help but think that in the land of the Bhati Rajput rulers, a place with a tumultuous history, its people had learned to remain vigilant day and night.
As I settled comfortably into the luxurious SUV, the driver graciously offered me water in glass bottles. Before even arriving at my destination, I could tell that this property spared no effort in attending to the minutest details, poised to pamper its guests like royalty.
Hotel
For over a decade, Suryagarh has been the preferred hotel for discerning travellers and extravagant weddings, but it was the star-studded Bollywood power couple Kiara Advani and Siddharth Malhotra wedding that not only put Suryagarh but the town of Jaisalmer itself onto the global tourist map. The property was built 15 km from the city centre amidst the stretch of nothingness and dotted only by dunes and occasional cacti.
Suryagarh is a palace of golden stone rising from the gleaming sand with carved canopies, lattices, hallowed corridors from the Mughal garden-styled courtyard and its gardens unfurling at various levels punctuated by pavilions, ramparts and even a stepwell. It is an amalgamation of fortress-like grandeur and palace-like grace.
With 196 exquisite rooms and suites, Suryagarh boasts fountains that playfully host ducks, gardens that cradle turtles, and proud peacocks at its parapets, all contributing to its regal stature.
Room
There are five categories of room types, including two Haveli-style rooms with a private butler and a plunge pool. All the rooms offer stunning views of the expansive dunes. My luxury suite featured a spacious living room adorned with a well-laid dining table and was accentuated by handcrafted cushions.
The bedroom, decorated in a soothing palette of white and cream and lavish Burma Teak wood floors, had a minimalistic approach in terms of furniture. The bathroom was a sprawling oasis, complete with a double sink counter, a bathtub, and a glass-encased shower stocked with stylish bath essentials in pretty bathing sets as a sustainable alternative to plastic ones.
Food and drink
The hotel offers three distinct dining options. Nosh is the all-day dining room, exuding an easy, relaxed atmosphere with its white and rustic walls. Draksh serves as the oasis-like respite bar for weary desert travellers, offering refreshing cocktails like the Suryagarh Sunrise made with fresh orange zest. The menu at Draksh includes continental delights such as cold tomato soup and fresh fennel red quinoa salad.
The Legend of Marwad is a fine dining restaurant open exclusively for dinner. It pays homage to the culinary heritage of royal kitchens, set amidst candlelit tables and softly lit chandeliers. The seven-course Rajasthani meal fare comes to your table on quirky platters and accompanied with catchy stories.
Experiences
Suryagarh is more than a mere accommodation, it is a destination in itself, offering very immersive and curated experiences. The cultural evening is open to all the guests, where the garden facing the west comes alive with sufi, folk and Bollywood performances from the Managaniyar Tribe artists, a perfect way to bid adieu to the day as the sun dips below the horizon.
For those seeking spooky supernatural stories, sign up for the Chudail (witch) Trail. Ghosts, perhaps not! But get ready for a galactic spectacle as you gaze upon the most magnificent night sky. The Sunset Thar Trail is another experience that will take you across abandoned cities and a petite peacock-filled fort known as Khaba Fort. The trail culminates in a mirage-like oasis adorned with fluttering Suryagarh flags and their signature drinks.
If you crave a romantic royal date night with your beau, the thar dinner at the celebration gardens is a must. Picture a flower-petal-led walkway, candles flickering on the grass, distant musicians serenading just for you, and a grand feast arriving on a colossal platter accompanied by the rhythmic beat of drums under a white canopy with low seating furnished in silver cushions.
Dinner on the Dunes is an unforgettable and enchanting experience during the winter months. It unfolds against the backdrop of mesmerising folk singers, featuring a nomadic hunt menu prepared right before your eyes amid music gently drifting on the desert breeze and stars twinkling above.
Spa and wellness
The day at Suryagarh begins with Yoga and an Akhara (wrestling) themed gym to burn some of the indulgent dinners. Neel, the semi-covered pool, is a very clever idea where the water is in the shade of a bright blue ceiling, and the windows allow for ventilation and natural airflow, making it an all-season place.
The Rait spa, in addition to regular therapies, offers signature thermal therapies inspired by the sand and minerals found in the desert which are revered for their healing effects. Examples include Luni salt, known for its mystical and healing efficacy; the Kansa wand, warm exotic wraps of spices; and their joint relief poultice massage using bundles of desert sand that melt away tiredness and stress.
To do
Jaisalmer Fort is the only living fort in the country and has been stuck in time for more than 800 years. The Patwaon ki Haveli is known for its intricately carved designs. The abandoned village of Kuldhara is known for its mysterious and eerie atmosphere, as it was deserted by its residents in the early 19th century, leaving behind a ghost town shrouded in legends and folklore. You can explore the city on your own or ask the property’s front desk to organise everything for you, including a guide and a car.
Factbox
Room rates start at INR 16,700 for double occupancy per night.
Getting there: Jaisalmer town is well connected by trains and has flights from major metropolitan Indian cities in the peak season (October to March). If you are planning to drive from Jaipur, the capital city of the state, the road conditions are suitable for the most part. During the 550km journey, there are layover opportunities in historical towns, making it a great road trip to experience the best of Rajasthan.
Address: Kahala Phata, Jaisalmer – Sam – Dhanana Rd, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan 345001, India
Phone: +91 78271 51151
Website: suryagarh.com
