The Balmoral isn’t just a mere Edinburgh landmark; it’s a decadent icon.
Originally inaugurated as the North British (Railway Station) Hotel, this ageless lodging brazenly shows off a glorious, Edwardian era façade in the core of Scotland’s majestic capital, where they strive in honouring their evermore pledge to provide guests impeccable service and delectable dining, amidst lavish grandiose surroundings fit for the visiting royals and aristocracy.
It was a privilege to be invited to experience first hand, this exquisite property that flew Scotland’s luxe hospitality flag to a pinnacle magnitude, by being the first hotel in Scotland to achieve that highly coveted, five-star accolade in Forbes Travel Guide’s 2021 Star Awards.
Hotel
The Balmoral forms part of the illustrious Rocco Forte Hotels Group, headed by Sir Rocco Forte.
An extraordinary tale coming to life in 1911, where Sir Rocco Forte’s grandfather embarked from Italy to Scotland, and founded the family’s first born venture, the Savoy Café. The café was the beginning of the family’s golden fortune streak, inspiring Sir Rocco’s father to fuel his own hospitality passion, and set up a Milk bar in leafy Regent Street. The bar’s impeccably timed opening created an empire that gave birth to the Trusthouse Forte; the world’s largest hospitality group and in 1997, the Balmoral was welcomed into the esteemed Rocco Forte realm.
For the carbon conscious traveller, a four-hour train from London Kings Cross to Edinburgh Waverly station, followed by a sharp right and half a minute walk into Edinburgh’s mini West End of Princes St, will have you perpetually fascinated by the hotel’s statuesque exterior. An homage to Renaissance aesthetics, castle like balconies and turrets adorned the medieval, gothic like anatomy sheathed in an antique, golden ivory like shade, with the hotel’s historic clock tower standing tall at 190 feet.
Meticulously serviced by Scotland’s native clockmakers, James Ritchie and Son, the lofty timepiece remains a favourite with trivia enthusiasts, courtesy of its chronicled quirk. Dating as far as the first hotel incarnation as the North British Station Hotel in 1902, the clock was set a generous three minutes fast to ensure the city’s passengers never missed a train, and today, it remains a calculated miscalculation in keeping this capital punctual.
Finally tearing my gaze away, the impeccably kilted doorman led me through the sturdy doors, and into the serenity of the hallway.
The fairy-tale frontage of The Balmoral truly navigates the path to some equally, splendiferous interiors. Designer Olga Polizzi’s field of vision showcased pure artistry, by infusing the property’s cherished heritage with 21st-century refinement. A cream and natural palette formed the backdrop against sweeping spiral staircases, distinctly carved Corinthian columns and a regal gold chandelier, suspended over a botanical display festooned with vibrant, rainbow butterfly trinkets.
Emerging from the spell of the breath-taking lobby, the concierge team welcomed me with bighearted gusto, guiding me with gallant flair through to the equally embracing reception staff, bedecked in their intricately tailored tartan-trouser attires to get me set for a weekend of pure, stately Scottish debauchery.
Room
167 rooms and 20 suites occupy this luxe injected premises, from the contemporary cosy comfort of the classic rooms fitted with courtyard views, to the palatial lustre of signature Scone and Crombie suite.
Named for the crowning place of Scotland’s kings since the 9th century, Scone Palace, this princely quarter played host to the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, and a noble directory of royals and sovereign. Close to 2,400 square feet comes apparelled in bespoke, tapestry Devonshire Swans wallpaper, Italian marble and dazzling fireplaces against a tranquil colour backdrop of dainty blue and yellow, with Mayfair’s luxuriant Emporium Asprey’s kitting out the Mosaic featured bathroom with their signature bathroom amenities.
Whilst Lady Luck wasn’t quite on my side to call one of Scotland’s largest suites home, the heavens honoured me handsomely with the splendour of the deluxe castle view room.
Sprawled out across 30 square metres, the ravishing deluxe territory played effortless homage to the serene Scottish countryside doused in soft pastel shades, and elegantly chic furnishings of tartan sofas, velvet, sapphire blue cushions, and pristine walls swathed in intricate, flora sylvan wallpaper.
Lined up in the marble clad bathrooms were Irene Forte’s collection of Sicilian skincare for some fresh Mediterranean nourishment, whilst a little quirky humour decorated the bathroom’s back wall, in the form of a black and white image of a rather handsome Sean Connery helping a bikini clad Ursula Andress with her handstand during filming of the 1962 Bond movie, Dr. No.
Do not be surprised to spot a ‘Baile Mhoireil’ gin awaiting your consumption in your room. Translated from the Gaelic name, ‘Majestic Dwelling’ as a nod to the Balmoral’s stunner of a property, the hotel joined hands with The Old Curiosity Distillery to fulfil their vision of the perfect aperitif.
Created from local, aromatic botanicals of sage, chamomile and anise, this piquant spirit encompassed a distinguished flavour profile brimming with zesty spiced notes. This was finished with a fresh citrus twist and herbal scents from real grapefruit and a rosemary sprig, prepped in my tumbler with lashings of ice by ever the impeccable Balmoral team as I soaked up the sweeping spectacles of Edinburgh Castle, and the bustling Princes Street from my window.
Food and drink
The Balmoral relishes in serving up their refined guests and discerning diners mouth-watering affairs, that embrace modern day style with a hearty, humble substance.
Rivalling London’s grandest afternoon tea experiences with painless mastery, is the Balmoral’s offering within the placid serenity of the Palm Court. Hand-painted de Gournay wallpaper decorated the walls next to vibrant, statuesque palm trees for that touch of exotic flair, whilst shimmering rays of light cascaded from the dramatic glass dome holding a intricately carved, Venetian chandelier.
Claiming my seat under a sparkling fairly light tree display, a flute of champagne came accompanied with a selection of piquant sweets and savouries, including a heady, Applewood cheese sandwich with a sprinkle of spring onions, and fruit scones slathered with the Balmoral’s Heather Hills Farm crafted jam. Courtesy of London’s exclusive Rare Tea Company, over 80 farmed tea varieties from around the world await to quench your thirst. Expect milk chocolate notes with woody buttered textures with China’s Rare, Chinese Keemun black tea, whilst India’s real rose petal brew from Gujarat bring an intoxicating, fragrant substitute to its usual synthetic handouts.
For a sublime culinary tour of Scotland’s finest food fare, the hotel’s red lacquered, four AA Rosette Number One serves as the order of the day with their seasonally evolving, seven-course taster menu of possibly a succulent hand diver scallop, or maybe a tender roe deer from the Hopetoun Estate whilst sinking in contentment into the restaurant’s dove grey wool banquettes.
Having a real penchant for a chic hotel bar, Bar Prince proved the place for where the real action sits as the perfect setting for a stylish, pre dinner aperitif with equally debonair hosts. Suave sophistication formed the base of Bar Prince’s design catalogue with dark wooden features, whitewashed walls and cornflower blue leather chairs dotted across the floor, whilst the marble topped bar, festooned with gleaming polished barware, came dressed with chocolate brown seating, and showcased a generous backlit display of premium gins, old age scotch and vintage champagnes.
Post a ritual warmup of a crisp, bubbling flute of Charles Heidsieck Rose, the pink theme continued with a cocktail concoction of a La Vie en Rose. The sweet, fruity richness laced with a fragrant floral aroma from the homemade rose syrup and Chambord, married in harmony with the sharp tang of fresh lemon juice, finished with a pure botanical smoothness from the Bombay Sapphire Gin.
Serving as an informal yet trendy, à la mode dining gem lies with Brasserie Prince. A debonair coupling of France’s sybaritic nouvelle cuisine with with Scotland’s homeland produce, Brasserie Prince comes armed with a mission to bring the old school French brasserie into the modern day. Reflections of Paris encircled from each nook and corner, due to a fabled partnership between the internationally worshipped Martin Brudnizki Design Studio (MBDS), and Olga Polizzi. Fresh tones of baby blues and blush pink lavished the space against rich oak panelled walls, sparkling mirrored accents, and snug leather banquettes to luxuriate in with a glass of Luberon, La Famille Perrin.
Wholesome French tastes with quintessential, Scottish ingredients are showcased throughout the mouth-watering menu. The Parisian favourite of the traditional French onion soup arrived loaded with sweet, caramelised onions topped with a dripping buttery Comté cheese crouton, whilst the delicate succulent scallops, from the Isle of Mull, mingled with the helpings of creamed cauliflower, and tender pork belly.
Although imperative to sample the Scottish rib eye, juicy and lightly pink with it’s medium rare perfection, the chicken Kiev proved a fighting competitor against it’s red meat rival. Moist diced meat revealed a buttered, wild garlic sauce when sliced, with hints of nutty, earthy black truffle in each bite. Keeping the dish company was a mash potato, fluffy, light and velvet like with a smidgen of melting Parmesan for that extra oomph.
To even consider skipping the Brasserie’s breakfast feast would be deemed a criminal offence. The perfectly poached eggs Florentine rested on a bed of lightly steamed spinach with beautiful crisp, homemade muffins still warm from the oven, finished with a scraping of fresh butter. A Balmoral full Scottish experience is certainly not to be missed, where meaty, premium sausages and thickly cut, dry cured bacon arrive served with earthy herbed black pudding, accompanied with a basket of fresh flaky pastries perfuming the air with its aromatic, baked goodness.
No successful evening is accomplished without a leisurely, night-time tipple at Scotch, where a rather generous array of over 500 pure, Scottish whiskies await your consumption. Allow the ever-animated ambassadors to whisk you on a tasting voyage, as you sample some of Scotland’s most rare and precious Scotch refreshments encased behind the bar’s hand-crafted oak cabinets. Whether a smooth, honeyed Deanston 12 Year malt or a golden spiced Macallan, the Scotch team promise an exquisite experience of their ‘the water of life’ in the depths of their glowing amber, black granite sanctuary.
Wellness
Where a spa and pool in a city hotel tends to be a rare treat, a spa and pool within the Balmoral is nothing less than pure utopia.
A divine, 15-metre pool reflecting deep blue hues required minimal effort to entice me into a lingering lap or three, before succumbing to the soothing shelter of the Turkish steam room to cleanse and detoxify away the hustle and grind of city life.
A blissful, sunshine odyssey awaits within the Balmoral spa fixated around ‘Time in the Med’. Following a warm, nurturing foot bath prepared by the gifted therapists, guests can abandon oneself to a legion of invigorating rituals and treatments, from a luminous full body scrub, or a silk smooth clay mud wrap.
Feeding our famished skin cells with a nutritious Mediterranean diet is Irene Forte herself. A firm guard on her foresight of ‘Natura e Scienza’, Irene adopted the holistic proposal with gentle organic ingredients foraged from her native, picturesque home dwelling of Sicily. Should you choose to submit to a cold stone scalp massage from the volcano of Mount Etna then lather up in a white wine body cream, the Rocco Forte wellness team live to provide you with a truly enhanced Forte Life.
For a more adrenaline fuelled ordeal, the hotel’s fitness gym comes decked up with the latest trailblazing Technogym gizmos, where guests can sweat it out with the latest weight and cardiovascular equipment kits for the ultimate total body workout. An ever-devoted personal trainer can be organised for a tailored training regime, coupled with a mass of tough love motivation to have you inching closer to those dream body goals.
In a nutshell
The Balmoral redefines the dictionary meaning of above and beyond, with the magical affair offered to their guests from the second one steps a toe onto the humbly noble abode, right until the heartfelt wave of the last goodbye.
Not content with the gastronomical delights aiming to leave guests salivating, or the hypnotic ethereal interiors keeping oneself in a round the clock trance, the staff hosting teams earn their weight in diamond encrusted gold with a hard graft attitude, swirled with witty personalities, and polished statures making them all exceptionally, aesthetically pleasing to the eyes.
In this unprecedented pedigreed hotel icon where old meets new, the Balmoral is proud to stand tall as an eternally symbolic hospitality beacon, within this breath-taking Scottish city.
Factbox
Room rates start from around GBP 350 in low season, and GBP 710 in peak season.
Address: 1 Princes St, Edinburgh, EH2 2EQ
Phone: 0131 556 2414
Website: roccofortehotels.com
