Cornwall isn’t short of pretty coastal villages, but Mousehole, located on the Penwith Peninsula, on the western tip of the county, is surely a contender for most charming. Aside from the whimsical name (which is pronounced ‘Mowzel’), it was hailed as ‘the loveliest village in England’ by Dylan Thomas, who honeymooned here in 1937.
The Old Coastguard was Mousehole’s most popular hotel for decades, but since it was taken over by brothers Charles and Edmund Inkin in 2011, its stiff Victorian sensibilities were shaken out of it, and it has since gone on to be one of Cornwall’s top foodie destinations. So how does it measure up 12 years on?
Hotel
There are sea views – and then there are Cornish sea views. The hotel enjoys a truly idyllic location, and once you stroll out onto the sloping lawn, you’ll feel that unique sense of peace you only get from being by the sea. Perched above the rocks and gleaming water, you can look out across to St. Michael’s Mount and the Lizard. Even on a blustery March day, the views were glorious.
The palm tree-adorned lawn gives the garden a tropical appeal and sitting on the outside terrace enjoying a cold drink in summer would be a seriously desirable way to spend a day. It was a little too chilly for this during my visit, but when the sun broke through the clouds, I enjoyed a walk down the garden to the rocky beach, where, to my delight, seals were bobbing in the water.
Mousehole itself is perfectly situated to explore the delights of West Penwith, and you’re within easy driving reach of popular towns like St. Ives, Sennen, and St. Just, as well as Porthcurno Beach and Land’s End. If you’re into hiking, the South West Coast Path winds right through Mousehole, allowing you to discover the many hidden coves, quiet beaches, and pretty villages this region is famous for.
The blue and white Victorian building has a maritime feel and it was, as the name suggests, a former coastguard lookout post. Today the hotel pub and restaurant are as popular with locals as with visitors, although there’s a separate entrance for hotel guests, which gives a subtle sense of exclusivity – although on the whole The Old Coastguard is more about laidback luxury.
The restaurant and pub are open-plan, painted a sunny mustard yellow with green accents, with dark wood tables and chairs – many of which have been picked up from auctions and vintage fairs. At the bar, there are comfy stools to perch on. The standout aspect is the sun lounge, where floor-to-ceiling windows lead out to the terrace and garden, and the views of the sea, and craggy St. Clement’s Island beyond, are sensational.
While it’s all very stylish, it also feels homey, and you’ll find guests relaxing on one of the cosy sofas with a newspaper, or curling up in an armchair with an aperitif, admiring the views. Refreshingly, the hotel is TV-free, with books scattered around instead. Guests who don’t finish a book before they leave are invited to take it home and post it back once they’ve finished – a touch I loved.
Room
There are 15 bedrooms, and all offer something different. Some rooms enjoy views of the sea and harbour, some offer glimpses of Mounts Bay, while others look out onto the village. All rooms have ensuite wood-panelled bathrooms, most with baths, though some have walk-in showers. Fragrant toiletries from Bramley Products are plentiful, and allow guests to enjoy a bit of pampering.
I stayed in room 15, on the top floor, which had a gloriously comfortable king-size bed – so comfy that the idea of not getting a good night’s sleep in it seemed impossible. But the highlight was the full-length sea-facing balcony. Waking up early, wrapping myself in a blanket and sipping fresh coffee while watching the morning light stream across the harbour was a truly special way to start the day.
While bedrooms don’t have TVs, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. Each room has a Roberts Radio and stacks of books, many of which are signed by local authors. The artwork on the walls is by local painters too, much of it by local artist Tim Hall, who runs a painting school outside Mousehole. (The paintings in the pub and restaurant are available to purchase, with price tags attached).
Food and drink
Given The Old Coastguard’s location, just two miles from the fishing port of Newlyn, it will come as no surprise to learn that the menu features plenty of fresh fish and seafood. But the emphasis is on fresh, local produce as a whole, whether it’s fish, meat, dairy, seasonal veg, or even more specialist products, like coffee, crisps, or chocolate.
As one of the founding members of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, the hotel’s dedication to promoting local produce is clear, and the list of their food suppliers can be found on their website. The same approach applies to drink, and local beers include Cornish Crown and St. Austell; spirits are from the South Western Distillery, and ciders include Polgoon Cider, from nearby Penzance.
Breakfast is for residents only, and can be eaten looking out to sea – either in the dining room, or, in warmer months, on the terrace. You can dither over platters of pastries, homemade muesli and cereals, fresh fruit, yoghurt, and poached fruit and compotes, and then follow it up with a cooked breakfast, with smoked salmon, kippers, scrambled eggs, bacon, and homemade soda bread.
Meat-free cooked breakfasts are available on request – and as a vegan, one thing I was concerned about pre-arrival was the fact that plant-based options can be limited in rural destinations. While dedicated vegan menus have become the norm in cities, things aren’t always the same in other parts of the country – but luckily, The Old Coastguard is an exception (as is its nearby sister hotel, The Gurnard’s Head), and dinner was exceptional.
There were two vegan options for each course: to start, I had beetroot tarte tatin; layers of sticky, caramelised beetroot topped with pickled blackberry and dollops of creamy soya ricotta. The celeriac lasagne, stuffed with kale, oyster mushrooms, and spelt, and smothered with plant-based béchamel, was also a standout. Dessert was a decadent dark chocolate mousse with praline, chocolate sorbet, and vegan honeycomb. Every mouthful was a joy – and I say that as someone who rarely has much of a sweet tooth!
There is, of course, much more on the menu for omnivores. Starters include pheasant cappelletti with smoked leeks and chestnut butter, and smoked Fowey mussels with tom yum, nettles, and mustard leaves; mains include Cornish sole, hispi cabbage and crispy oysters, and pork chop, smoked mash, and cavolo nero. Other desserts include rum baba with white chocolate and blood orange, honey crémeux with lemon sponge, rhubarb, and rose syrup, and the obligatory cheese board.
In a nutshell
With a spectacular seaside location, classy, comfortable rooms, and fresh, local, and outstanding food, The Old Coastguard is a West Cornwall favourite for a reason. Luxurious yet laidback, stylish yet unpretentious, and with excellent service and charming staff, it’s a must for foodies, walkers, or anyone looking to switch off by the sea.
Factbox
Double rooms with bed and breakfast range from £265.00 to £380.00 per night.
Address: The Parade, Mousehole, Penzance TR19 6PR
Phone: 01736 731222
Website: oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk
Photography courtesy of Paul Massey
