Words by Cindy-Lou Dale
Driving through the outskirts of Victoria Falls in an air-conditioned minivan, we negotiated the curvy paved road heading up a plateau overlooking the wilderness which is Zimbabwe. We passed through gates where a Shona tribesman in traditional tribal dress, bid us a good day and shook his spear at a sign announcing our arrival at the premium address of Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. The road, shaded by tall Mopani trees, delivered us to a grand thatched lodge.
Hotel
Inside the 72-roomed sunset-facing lodge, with its cathedral thatched ceilings, it is voluminous and simply breath-taking. Built of thatch and timber, the lodge rises several levels, giving the impression of a vast open-plan tree house. From the terracotta-tiled lobby on the ground floor there are various levels taking you to viewing decks, the Buffalo Bar and MaKuwa-Kuwa restaurant. It’s open-sided and airy, with uninterrupted views across the frequently visited waterhole and beyond, and across the lavender smudged game corridor to the Zambezi River.
There’s a two-tiered swimming pool that lies beyond the Buffalo Bar, surrounded by sunbeds, making it easy to while away the hours watching the wildlife. I looked down on a herd of elephants, including several calves, drinking at the waterhole. Zambezi beer in hand, I watched as the calves darted around and played. Here there’s no 4×4 safari stresses, as the game comes to you, five-star style.
Room
The en-suite rooms are stylish and comfy with dark wood furniture and tall beam-and-thatch ceiling, giving a sense of space. The four-poster beds are draped with mosquito nets, and the mostly neutral décor is livened up with bold paintings of colourful birds or black-and-white photos of wildlife. There are also USB sockets around the room and free Wi-Fi throughout the estate.
Waterhole-facing rooms are larger, and each room has a balcony with tables and chairs, but you’re warned to keep the sliding doors locked – monkeys and baboons like snooping.
Food and drink
Breakfast is a vast buffet, or a delicious cooked option, and lunches are light, with salads and sandwiches. At dinner time executive chef Clayton Mpofu breaks out the crystal and turns up the volume in the kitchen. He brings something else to the plate besides food – his own formula is about the art, the music, the place, the ingredients – it’s the whole concept behind his food that makes it far more interesting. All made with traditional ingredients but used in a different way. Taking memories of food and interpreting them in a modern way. He’s a food icon.
There is only one true way to get to know a nation, and that’s to go there and eat the food amongst the people who cook it and eat it every day. That way its seasoned with a sense of the place, the landscape, the culture and the traditions. For an authentic Victoria Falls food experience, you need to reserve a table at Boma, a restaurant on the estate. It’s an unforgettable fusion of mouth-watering local cuisine, legendary dance performances, interactive drumming and traditional storytelling. It bombards the senses with tastes, sights, and sounds of Africa.
Spa and wellness
The game viewing experience continues at the new Spa complex as vervet monkeys like to have a look in through the windows whilst massages are performed. It’s all rather splendid with hair and beauty treatment facilities, a reflexology pool, and three outbuildings where massages are performed, each with its own outdoor shower.
To do
Join the Vulture Culture Experience and take in the spectacular sight of hundreds of vultures swooping in and feeding on leftover meat scraps and bones from the on-site restaurants. This supplementary feeding programme aids the survival of these endangered birds and the lunchtime feeding begins with a briefing on the ecological importance of the birds and the plight they face in the region.
A short 20-minute drive from the lodge delivers you to KoMpisi Village, the homestead belonging to Melusi Mpisi Ndlovu, a charismatic and distinguished medicine man. He’s known throughout Africa as a traditional healer, and internationally famed in the alternative medicine field. His wisdom has been sought twice by the late Queen of England, and the British House of Lords. He regularly consults with major British and American pharmaceutical companies on cancer cures, but also opposes their attempts to patent traditional African herbal medicines.
“Traditional herbal medicine is found in naturally occurring plant and animal-based substances, which has minimal to no industrial processing. People consult traditional healers whether they can afford modern medicines or not. It’s a belief system, integral to the lives of most Africans.”
For the next hour Ndlovu spoke of anticancer agents found in plants, some of which he uses for treatment of all types of cancer. Ndlovu went on to explain his preparations and how they’re administered, which depends on the ailment, and which part of the plant is used. Sometimes it’s an ointment, or taken orally, inhaled, mixed with food, or macerated into a drink.
“Doctors who train in Western sciences, focus only on the biomedical causes of disease. Traditional healers have a holistic approach. Some divine the cause of an illness by throwing bones and listen to the channeled curative advice of dead ancestors. Whilst others, like me, have in-depth knowledge of plant materials and their various healing powers.”
Factbox
Rooms can be booked from £400 per night for two adults.
Address: Stand 471c Squire Cummings Ave, Victoria Falls Zimbabwe
Phone: +263 832843202–6
Email: online@africaalbida.co.zw
Website: victoria-falls-safari-lodge.com
