Frankfurt is located on the Main River in the German state of Hesse and is known as Frankfurt am Main. Named after the Franks, who dwelled near the Lower Rhine in the third century, the Free City of Frankfurt was a city state for nearly five hundred years and a prominent municipality of the Holy Roman Empire.
In 1562, kings and emperors were crowned in the city’s Bartholomäus Cathedral. In 1806 the city’s sovereignty was lost due to the collapse of the empire. Nine years later Frankfurt regained its prominence and then in 1866 it was annexed by the Kingdom of Prussia, and in 1945 it was declared part of the state of Hesse.
Today, Frankfurt, also known as ‘Mainhattan’, is a global centre for commerce, technology, media and creative industries with shimmering glass, concrete and steel skyscrapers, including the head office of the European Central Bank. The city’s cultural venues attract the crowds and with 30 museums to choose from there is clearly a wide range of exhibitions to keep the most discerning visitor’s attention.
I embarked on my explorations with the utmost zeal and headed for St Bartholomew’s cathedral with its imposing Gothic tower, which soars 95 metres into the sky. Visitors who climb the 328 steps up to the viewing platform are richly rewarded with a fabulous panoramic view. The cathedral, known as the Kaiserdom, dates back to 1315 and, although severely damaged by fire in 1867 and bombed in 1944, it has been restored with much care and attention to detail. The cathedral’s many treasures include Antonius van Dyck’s fabulous painting of the Lamentation of Christ, which dates back to 1627 and was bequeathed to the cathedral in 1852.
With my insatiable thirst for art awakened I made my way to the Städel Museum, which was founded in 1815 and is crammed with more than 3,000 paintings focusing on Renaissance, Baroque and early Modern pieces. The collection includes inspiring works by Rembrandt, Picasso, Monet, Botticelli, Vermeer and Degas. Each piece demands the admiration of the viewer and I was utterly enchanted and enthralled.
Alas, pressed for time, I forced myself to leave and took a leisurely stroll along the banks of the River Main and headed for the Historisches Museum, which features art and artefacts from the medieval era to the present day. Exhibitions include Frankfurt Once and Frankfurt Now, which is spread out over five galleries and explores how the citizens of the city lived in the past and how they live today. It is a fascinating example of how events impact every detail of the lives of the residents.
As I emerged from the museum into the sunlight I made my way to the Röemerberg, the city’s old central square, which was reconstructed, according to the original plans, and completed in 1986. I was spellbound by the gorgeous gabled half-timbered properties and in the centre of the square, by the imposing town hall, stands a fabulous bronze fountain of the goddess Justitia holding the scales of justice and a sword.
As I strolled around the square the enticing aromas of coffee and pastries swirled around my nostrils and awakened my appetite. I selected a table outside the buzzing Schwarzer Stern restaurant, directly opposite the magnificent Römer, the old town hall. I ordered the delicious braised beef dumplings with red cabbage and apples accompanied by a glass of house red and followed by an unforgettable slice of apple pie, which were served with aplomb.
To work off those calories I took a brisk walk along to the pedestrian-only zone of Zeil, the city’s main shopping area and the location of MyZeil, a shopping mall, which features an enormous curved glass façade and covers 52,000 square metres with brand-name shops, international labels and regional retailers keen to assist me in reaching my credit card limit.
Weighed down with bags, feeling rather weary, and in need of a spot of pampering, I headed for the JW Marriott, located on Thurn-und-Taxis – Platz 2, a short walk away. A swift check-in was completed and I was escorted to my grand deluxe suite, measuring 60 sqm. With floor to ceiling windows and a separate living room with a comfy couch I made myself at home with ease. I then went in search of the hotel’s spa to indulge in a 30-minute ‘De-stress’ massage, which included essential oils with the most delightful and soothing scents. Back in my suite I retreated to my king size bed, swathed with cool, white linens, and succumbed to a deep slumber.
Up with the larks and I headed for Goethe House, located on Großer Hirschgraben. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, a German poet, novelist, playwright, theatre director, critic, scientist and statesman, was born in 1749 and the exquisitely furnished Goethe House, built on the site of his childhood home, provides the opportunity to take a glimpse into his life and Frankfurt in the 18th century. Exhibits include a presentation of the Goethe family, a history of the property and details of Frankfurt.
One room is dedicated to Goethe as a young man, his legal studies and his writings and drawings. His novel, The Sorrows of Young Werther resulted in enormous fame and is thought to be highly influential in the beginning of Romanticism and Faust. His tragic play, which is in two parts, is considered to be the greatest work of German literature. In 1821 Goethe was introduced to the 12-year-old Felix Mendelssohn who later set a number of Goethe’s poems to music.
As my visit to Frankfurt was drawing to a close I made my way to the Haus Wertheym, a German restaurant and inn, located on Fahrtor, opposite the Historisches Museum. The origins of the Haus Wertheym date back to 1479 and it was the ideal setting to enjoy a real taste of Frankfurt. I ordered the traditional meaty sauerbraten, served with potato dumplings and a chilled glass of cider and I held my glass aloft to make a toast to Frankfurt as I reflected on Johann Goethe’s wise words ‘Plunge boldly into the thick of life, and seize it where you will, it is always interesting’.
Factbox
Flights are available from London Heathrow to Frankfurt and flight time is approximately one hour 40 minutes.
For details of the featured accommodation visit marriott.com and to learn more about the city’s attractions visit Frankfurt Tourismus.
