Words by Yousif Nur
If you’re looking for ancient Roman ruins in the south of France, with a bit of bullfighting thrown in (yes, you read that correctly) with five-star luxury treatment but can’t quite make it to Rome, then Nîmes should be on your radar. Located 45 minutes north of Montpellier, it is a compact city with plenty to see and do for a short visit or weekend break. I first wanted to visit a few years ago, ever since I saw the imposing Arènes de Nîmes, an ancient Roman amphitheatre, from taking off from Nîmes Airport on my way home from Montpellier, having never ventured into the city.
Upon arriving at Nîmes train station and walking towards the Tourism Office, I had already taken in quite a few of the city’s most famous attractions: the Square Feuchères garden, a ten-minute walk, which then led me to the Fontaine Pradier, with the Arènes de Nîmes directly behind it. With my suitcase dragging behind me on the pavement, I walked through Boulevard de Victor Hugo, which also took in many sights I would visit later on my trip.
The town was also preparing for its biggest event of the year – La Feria de la Nîmes – a bullfighting festival, which takes place over several days attracting people from all over France to come and celebrate with lots of parties taking place across the city. I had no prior info or knowledge about this taking place and had to leave the day before all the festivities began.
I stayed at the five-star Maison Albar L’Imperator Hotel, located opposite the Jardin de la Fontaine. Upon sitting in the lobby, the first impression was that it mixes traditional design with its carpeted staircases and contemporary interiors. Matador outfits and magazines dedicated to bullfighting were to the left, in homage to Nimes’s bullfighting traditions and to the right are the restaurant and bar.
Once checked in, I headed to my superior room on the top floor, which overlooked an Italian garden-styled outdoor area with the outdoor pool in view. The room was spacious with a wood, marble and stone interior, keeping with the Mediterranean locality, with all furniture blue. All toiletries in the bathroom were provided by Codage, a Parisian luxury cosmetics firm, which also includes wellness treatments at the hotel spa.
It was then time for some sightseeing. My first stop was the Maison Carrée, the world’s most well-preserved ancient Roman temple, with barely a dent to it over many centuries. Inside, I learnt of the temple’s history, which was built in 5-7 AD and inspired by Rome’s Temple of Apollo. It was also the first temple built for imperial worship. A week after my visit, it was announced that the building had become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You’re welcome, guys.
Immediately afterwards, I took a 10-minute walk down Boulevard Victor Hugo to the Musee de la Romanité, which I had to visit that particular day, as it would be shut for the next two days of my time in Nîmes. If there’s one place that encapsulates Nîmes ‘ Roman history, this is it. Located directly opposite the Arènes de Nîmes, the museum has many relics from the city’s past, including many mosaics, statues and interactive exhibitions showcasing the city’s past from 25 centuries of history. Little tip: make the trip up to the rooftop via lift or stairs for a relaxing spot to see a 360-degree view of Nîmes, which includes a dazzling view of the amphitheatre.
I didn’t waste any time crossing the road to visit the Arènes de Nîmes, the city’s centrepiece, especially as I had 45 minutes before closing for the day. The first thing that hits you inside the theatre is how well-preserved they’ve kept it since it was built around 70 CE. There’s an argument to say it’s the most well-preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world. Though not as big as the Colosseum in Rome, it’s still just as awe-inspiring to take in the scenery, which has a capacity of 20,000 people. In days of yore, watching theatre performances and gladiators fighting would be a spectacle. These days, it hosts concerts and two bullfights as part of La Feria, which the venue was being prepared for that week.
A quick stroll through the Old Town took me through its many little stores, boutiques and restaurants via the narrow, winding streets. And as it was getting dark, I thought to head back to my room to prepare for dinner. I opted for room service that evening and kept it simple with a cheeseburger served on Italian bread rather than a bun.
Day two started with breakfast in the restaurant, where I had two eggs, fresh bread, yoghurt, mint tea and apple juice. As I felt a bit gingerly and wanted to take it easy, I strolled around the Jardins de la Fontaine. The gardens were, again, built by the Romans and rediscovered by archaeologists in the 18th century.
They have lovely water features and greenery inspired by Italian and English designs. The compound has many sights to visit, including the Tour Magne, a 32-metre tower which was previously a Celtic tower. After a steep climb along a spiral staircase, the view from the top is stunning, overlooking the entirety of Nîmes. Also, check out Temple de Diane, a Roman ruin to the left of the Jardin de la Fontaine with its arches.
It was time to check out the Maison Albar’s facilities – namely the indoor and outdoor pools after walking around the morning. A special mention must go to the management of Maison Albar L’Imperator, who looked after every minute detail of everything I needed and ensured I recovered well from an upset stomach.
A short five-minute walk from the hotel was the Musee d’Art Contemporain. The building was designed by Norman Foster and houses around 600 pieces of contemporary art from the 1960s right up to the present day.
I had a quick drink at the Bistrot de L’Horloge as an aperitif before dinner in the old town, with a woman singing French classics like La Vie en Rose and Je Ne Regrette Rien by Edith Piaf. It’s just part of the French experience.
For dinner that evening, I visited Le Table du 2 Restaurant, with two Michelin stars to its name. Located on the rooftop of the Musee de la Romanité, I opted to go for the summer menu – a three-course meal consisting of calf’s head terrine with potatoes and gribche sauce for starters, the main course being duck breast with artichoke, hazelnut and apicus sauce and a fruit rice pudding with coulis and mango sorbet.
If you want something to eat with food from all over the surrounding region of Provence and the south of France, head to Les Halle de Nîmes, where vendors sell everything from pates, fruit juices, paella to meat, fish and wines. But head there in the morning for the freshest produce and people haggling for the best deal.
If you’re after a place with sunshine nearly all year round, with lots of Roman history in a walkable city, Nîmes is certainly somewhere to consider.
Factbox
Flight times from London to Nîmes are approximately one hour 55 minutes.
For more information on Nîmes visit nimes-tourisme.com
Photography courtesy of OT Nîmes.
