Utrecht is a magnificent medieval university city in the heart of Holland worth discovering. Unravel the history of the ancient municipality exploring its gothic architecture and beyond to the beautiful castles and country houses on its outskirts. Utrecht looks gorgeous in all seasons, but in autumn as the old trees bordering the canals shed their rusty leaves on the ground, it takes on an even more ethereal glow before the onset of winter and the Christmas preparations.
Described as the lively, beating heart of Holland, Utrecht is known for its city centre with wharf cellars along the canals housing cafes and terraces by the water. You’ll also find many gardens and parks for soulful relaxation. There are hidden courtyards in the romantic Oude Hortus and cosy parks such as the Wilhelminapark and Park Lepelenburg where couples can go for wonderful walks, play sports and have a picnic. A particularly idyllic spot is at the edge of the Science Park, with the sound of falling water and buzzing insects and the botanical gardens which are the oldest of their type in the Netherlands, located around the 19th-century Fort Hoofddijk.
Utrecht is full of wonderful architecture dating back to Roman times. There are many opportunities to explore these wonders and combine cultural activities with eating and shopping. Most of the city is built around the iconic Dom, a 14th-century bell tower with city views from the highest and oldest church tower in Holland, which is currently being renovated.
The Dom Tower was built between 1321 and 1382 and is 112 meters high. Even if you can’t see them, you are likely to hear one of its thirteen bells that weigh between 880 and 18,000 pounds and play out every hour. At the top a birds-eye view of Utrecht awaits once you climb the 465 stairs and on a clear day, you can see Amersfoort, Rhenen, Montfoort, Oudewater, Woerden and even Amsterdam from the top.
The Dom was separated from the Gothic Cathedral of St. Martin after a tornado struck the church in 1647. This is now located on central Domplein square. The museum Catharijneconvent also shows religious art and artefacts in a former monastery Kloosterhof, and the monastic garden offers a peaceful refuge. There are so many pretty buildings around carved out by an intricate network of canals. The Oudegracht winds through the city centre and is inextricably linked to its history.
Two worlds above and below water
The Oudegracht is a wonderful place to walk down day or night. Utrecht has many tall traditional-style Dutch town houses along the canal originally built for merchants of commerce. Above ground, weave in between the quaint side street shops and restaurants looking over the canal side. Below some steps you will find a wonderful world of wharf cellars housing cafés and terraces by the water. These former warehouses of the 13th century provide attractive options for diners and drinkers.
Deep in the cellars of Utrecht, there is a tropical paradise called the Rum Club with colourful food, music and cocktails. The friendly café-cum-theatre De Bastaard has been a fixture of Utrecht’s nightlife for years now. The café has been run by the same owners since 1984 and is a great place to have a beer or play a game of pool. Every so often the café is transformed into a charming little theatre.
A wonderful world of bridges opens up at canal level. Some are illuminated by an artistic light show called Utrecht Lumen that light up the city and the water 365 nights a year. The project features incredible light artwork that is visible from sunset until midnight every night. It’s possible to book a tour with an experienced guide taking you past all the installations.
Gastronomy
Utrecht is a truly international city with world restaurants, diners, lunch rooms, coffee corners and delicatessens both in the city centre and in the surrounding districts. Hidden in small alleyways or right on one of the bustling squares you’ll find many fine dining options. Cantina di David offers Italian fine dining in the heart of Utrecht, where epicureans can be seated in an authentic 13th century cellar at the Oudegracht of Utrecht.
Farther afield is the magnificent Kasteel Heemstede, around 8km outside of the city walls. If you are prepared to travel even farther, 17 km outside of the main town is La Provence with one Michelin star, so well worth a visit.
Where to stay in Utrecht
There are plenty of hotels including internationally recognised luxury brands such as the Park Plaza hotel close to the station which sets the bar in international luxury and is one of the few international hotels in this characterful city.
For those who love a bit of history, the Grand Hotel Karel V is a former monastery dating back to the 14th century. It has been a military hospital and in its present reincarnation is a five-star hotel. Find 121 spacious rooms in a combination of modern and historic styles, including a monumental Napoleonic wing and modern Roman wing. There’s free Wi-Fi, a bathrobe with slippers, and in-room coffee and tea and a relaxing sauna and the solarium.
Located in the museum quarter of Utrecht, you can walk to the main shopping streets and cafés and walk along the canals and city patios. Restaurant Karel 5 serves a la carte fine cuisine with various wines in a setting with big mirrors and a chimney-piece. Chef de Cuisine Leon Mazairac and Maitre-Sommelier Johan Kragtwijk run the oldest monastery kitchens in Utrecht. There is also a bistro Karel 5 and bar and lounge serving coffee and tea during the day and cocktails at night.
Charming guesthouses are to be found in abundance in this quaint city that has many historic links. If you fancy getting to know the locals, The Rosendael is an excellent choice as a ‘five star’ bed and breakfast apartment. With two levels, a downstairs with a complete kitchen and dining area come living room in bright vibrant colours and rich paintings of African origin, while upstairs you’ll find a bedroom and bathroom. Don’t be fooled by its ‘b and b’ status, it is more like staying in someone’s grand home with bold furniture and tasteful artwork, what’s more, the owner, Hans, delivers bread, cheese, cold cuts, and fruit to your apartment daily.
In the warmer months, canal houseboats are wonderful places to base yourself too.
Entertainment and shopping
The Winkle Van Sinkel is a unique listed building and former department store of German merchant traders that now hosts activities, music, dance, drinks and dinner options. You can tango and salsa or enjoy club nights and jazz evenings. An excellent city for shopping, especially close to Christmas when the diverse array of boutiques and markets stay open late every day. If you don’t want to venture outdoors, simply go to the Hoog Catharijne shopping centre, with over 160 shops inside – attached to the central train station.
Alternatively, walk through Wilhelminapark and Burgemeester Reigerstraat, a street known for its diverse range of shops and countless cafes and restaurants or cut through the park to reach the Burgemeester Reigerstraat for more shopping. Bicycles are the choice of transport in this attractive, car-free city centre. Trams and trains connect to tourist attractions outside the city such as the Castle De Haar, located near Haarzuilens, in the province of Utrecht in the Netherlands.
June marks the 900th anniversary of Utrecht acquiring city rights. The city is planning an extensive programme of fantastic festivities. Celebrations will take place in every district between City Day on 2nd June and St. Martin’s Day on 11th November. The theme for the 900th birthday is City Without Walls – open, involved, hospitable and connected.
In addition to the dozens of cultural, musical, sports and social activities taking place throughout the city, there will also be some standout highlights. Things will kick off with an extended weekend of exciting festivities from 2nd to 6th June and the choir festival Leading Voices will run from 27th to 31st July.
The 2022 edition of the Spanish cycling classic La Vuelta a España will begin in Utrecht on 19th August, while the Singel Canal Celebration is scheduled for 10th and 11th September. The celebrations will come to a close with a huge Saint Martin’s Day parade on 11th November.
Emperor Henry V granted city rights to Utrecht and its residents on 2nd June 1122. Utrecht became an official city – only the second place in the Netherlands to acquire city status, following in the footsteps of Stavoren. During the Middle Ages, Utrecht was the Dutch Republic’s largest and most important city.
A visit to Utrecht will stay with you forever, it is a pretty city both above the bridge and below it, and the hospitable Dutch people really make it a fun place to visit. It is not far to Amsterdam where the most opulent hotels fit for royalty exist. Visit Utrecht and discover its wonderful array of nightlife and culture and stay in luxurious accommodation, or base yourself in Amsterdam and visit by train. You will not be disappointed.
Getting there
By air: KLM operates multiple daily flights from London to Amsterdam Schiphol Airport where you can travel on by train. EasyJet (London Gatwick, Stansted and Luton) and Jet2 (Leeds Bradford) are also available.
By train: The grand train station adjacent to the airport connects you to any Dutch city and beyond. The Intercity takes just 25 minutes from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. These double-decker trains are built for long distances and are extremely comfortable. They connect Utrecht to neighbouring cities and the nation’s capital.
The intercity train takes in four stops including the mighty Ajax stadium. On arrival at Utrecht Centraal Station you’ll find your way around the city by foot quite easily. Utrecht’s central location makes it easily accessible to the nation’s capital and other cities such as Rotterdam, The Hague and more. You can even inter-rail around Europe and be in Paris in a couple of hours.
