Arriving in Brighton at the end of the day is a spectacular experience. The smell of fish and chips lingers in the air as the sun sets over the shiny pebbles of Brighton beach and turns the sky and sea a bright pink. The water shimmers and its iridescent light reflects so that the beautiful Victorian facades of historic seafront hotels glow.
The ever-present squalls of seagulls quieten down as the moon rises only to be replaced with the hubbub of nightlife – music to the ears of those arriving in the seaside town for the first time. Juxtaposed against the heritage of this destination is the futuristic British Airways i360 vertical pier with its space-age pod glowing red against the night sky. As it ascends the tall tower is a striking sight. This is Brighton.
Explore Brighton
Brighton is a cosmopolitan city on the southeast coast of East Sussex, a short train ride away from London. It is distinctly Victorian yet has an ultra-modern vibe about it. Its lively pier is popular with families and there are scores of upmarket hotels and restaurants to make this a truly classy destination. One can spend hours wandering in and out of the designer stores in the Lanes or feasting on fine food. And of course, it has a long stretch of pebbly beach, which is perfect for sunbathing during the summer months – making it a true all-rounder for the entire family.
Brighton is a historic town
Brighton is an ancient fishing village formerly known as Brighthelmston. After the great storms of 1703 and 1705 that battered the town, there was a focus to rebuild, and tourism really took off when in 1730 Dr Richard Russell promoted the health benefits of swimming in the water and paved the way for Brighton Baths.
After Dr Russell’s death his house was let to royalty including the brother of George II the Duke of Cumberland and the Prince of Wales who was a frequent visitor to the town which became Brighton. It was a boom time when the London to Brighton railway in 1841 connected the seaside resort with the capital. Soon it became known as ‘London by the Sea’ and by the mid-twentieth century it became one of the largest towns in England.
The Grand Hotel
The Victorians built fancy places to stay such as the iconic Grand Hotel, which faces the ruins of the West Pier. It is one of the most expensive places to stay in the city. To take tea at the Grand is a special occasion where the finest silver comes out to mark the event and the china cups are adorned with delicate patterns along with the words ‘A Grand Life’. Guests can opt from a menu of lapsang souchong, grand blend, or blue lady tea. You’ll feel like Victorian gentry as you enjoy the experience. There is even a post-box in the lobby dating back to Queen Victoria’s reign.
The Hilton Brighton Metropole
Next door is another fine building with a rich history, where I stayed. The Hilton Brighton Metropole was originally opened in 1890 and the hotel’s opening day caused such a hullabaloo that additional trains had to be chartered from London Victoria for the 1,500 extra visitors who were greeted with a red carpet. This fabulous Victorian hotel along the seafront offers 340 rooms in an Art Deco world of magnificent chandeliers and a sweeping staircase.
The bedrooms have recently been renovated and they are clean and bright and modern as well as spacious. They contain a king-sized bed and sofa bed as well a large TV and drinks station. Special guests are welcomed with an edible gift from The Salt Rooms restaurant downstairs – a dessert consisting of a beach scene made from white chocolate pebbles with a bucket sculpted from pure dark chocolate filled with a cake-like texture and rich sauce. Besides the ‘beach’ was a small deckchair with a miniature bottle of Brighton gin.
For those fortunate to have a sea view, it’s possible to open the curtains and observe a bright full moon shining her light on the dappled waves. To add to the enchantment, you might see a troupe of fire dancers gather to perform a ritual on the sandy square just beneath the hotel. For those confined to the room due to sleeping children, this is a wonderful way to spend an evening with free entertainment from the comfort and privacy of one’s own room. The rooms also have views of the sunrise.
Start the day with a swim in the Hilton Metropole’s large swimming pool. The pool itself is surrounded by ornate marble pillars and a sauna and hot tub area. This is a wonderful way to relax, and all can be booked from the room along with the fitness centre.
Cocktails at The Metropole Bar
The Metropole Bar is a decadent area with plush armchairs and fine furniture, all designed in the legacy of Neil Halverson Hilton, a distant relative of the founder of the Hilton brand, Conrad Hilton. As an Admiral in the Royal British Navy during the mid-1800s, he was an avid epicurean and explorer with a penchant for the finest things in life. In his honour the Hilton Metropole’s cocktail menu was created. The cheesecake cocktail is perfect for patrons with a sweet tooth. One can sip the delicious nectar served in a beautiful glass and nibble on the scrummy alcoholic cheesecake that accompanies it.
For those who appreciate theatrics, the Message in a Bottle is a spin on an old-fashioned sealed in an ice ball with a little hammer for you to crack open and discover its delights. But the most dramatic is the Cannons at Cocktail Hour which emulates a gin gimlet. It is infused under a cloche with gunpowder tea smoke. For the little ones, the non-alcoholic ‘Not so Pink Panther is a wonderful drink to enjoy.
Children are also well catered for with the ‘Mad Hatter Afternoon Tea’ offering a three-tier loaded stand of their very own, with ham, marmite and jam sandwiches and strawberry jam tarts topped with candy floss, mini-Brighton rock and vanilla or milk froth whisked up at the bar. The best place to enjoy these delicious concoctions is on the stunning Art Deco terrace outside the red-bricked building surrounded by blooms as you drink in both the contents of your glass and sea views of Brighton’s iconic promenade.
Dining at the Hilton
Restaurant 1890 provides an array of breakfast choices from the popular English to continental. There is also the novelty of making your own pancakes. The restaurant is particularly good for those with allergies. There is unlimited tea and coffee and juices. Enjoy a veritable feast whilst sitting in a grand old ballroom with coved ceilings and wonderful inviting sea views, one really does feel as though one has stepped into another more elegant era. And you are certainly in good company since Sir Winston Churchill dined at the hotel on 2 October 1947.
If fine dining is on your agenda then you needn’t look further than the Hilton Metropole’s very own Salt Room. This contemporary British seafood restaurant champions the freshest shellfish and meat and cooks it over charcoal, ensuring a memorable dining experience. The fish is superb. Sample the barbequed stone bass with a cool glass of chardonnay as you savour the wonderful sea views.
On Sundays, they do a Reef ‘n’ Beef to share which consists of chateaubriand, king prawns, garlic baby potatoes, saffron coleslaw, garlic and herb butter sauce and red wine jus. Ensure you leave room for pudding as the desserts are heavenly. Their famous Taste of the Pier sharing plank is a feast for the senses and comes complete with raspberry doughnuts, chocolate pebbles and a ’99’ ice cream.
The BAi360 flight
From this terraced restaurant, one can see the space-age British Airways i360 sliding effortlessly up and down the pole. Built on the site of the former historic West Pier this unique structure dominates the skyline.
The i360 was a £46 million project by the same team who constructed the London Eye. With a ratio of 74 to 1, it is closer to a palm tree than other tall buildings such as The Shard. A special flight allows participants to walk on the roof at 8.30 am on select days before the first flight of the day and it goes on until dusk. At night the pod glows red as it rises effortlessly up the 531ft pole and it is suspended in air 160 metres above the sea. At this height, viewers can enjoy sights over the beach and sea beyond.
From the ground, it is also a sight to behold as old meets new in this historic part of town. The space age pod rests against the backdrop of the former West Pier originally built in 1866, which once held a theatre and concert hall. Now this futuristic pier in the sky serves as a chance to walk in the air above the sea. The slim tower has an 18 ft giant pod/viewing platform like a bubble wrapped around it and it rises to 450ft for viewing.
For the most daring, there is the chance to climb up on top of the pod and enjoy the wind rippling in your hair as you enjoy the view, you can also abseil down the pod. Either experience is not for the faint-hearted, but the ‘walk on the roof’ served to ‘cure’ my extreme vertigo with the assurance of the professional team. Not only were they there to instruct but they were both engineers and rescue specialists, so I felt safe in the knowledge that should the pod break down or anyone needs to be rescued, all was in good hands.
After this exhilarating experience, one can enjoy a glass of Nyetimber sparkling wine to toast the occasion. There are also juices and lollipops for the littlest ones and overall, it is a great way to entertain the family. The views from the top are spectacular and you can see all the way out to the Isle of Wight on a clear day, as well as enjoy a birds-eye view of this stunning city. You can see for miles along the beach beyond the Palace Pier and inland you can gaze beyond Brighton to the Sussex hills.
Brighton’s nightlife
Brighton’s fashionable Lanes are bursting with distinctive pubs and restaurants. One example of this is The Cricketers which is the oldest pub in Brighton. Built in 1547 as an inn, it was bought by the Golden Lion group in 1980. On a sunny day you can enjoy drinks in the large garden at the front. It is also recommended to visit and try one of the best Sunday lunches in the city. There is also a shaded area for dining as well as a plush bar area in vivid red with quirky trinkets all around.
Upstairs the Greene rooms pay homage to Graeme Greene, who penned parts of Brighton Rock here. Browse at the letters he wrote. A grislier connection, is that Robert Donston Stephenson, the surgeon suspected to be Jack the Ripper, once stayed here. Like all old pubs, there is a resident ghost. Next door is the characterful Black Lion pub which is a great place for live music with a funky garden with booths to soak up the Brighton vibes.
As you wander further into the Lanes, you will find Donatello – a family-run Italian restaurant serving authentic food at affordable prices. This traditional restaurant is beautiful from the outside and is looks like a trattoria decorated in green and red with blooms of flowers. On a sunny day, one can imagine themselves in Italy. The venue is popular with locals and celebrities alike and there is no need to book as this 400-seater restaurant will make space available if you are prepared to wait. They serve the best pizza and pasta in town and are great for children too, offering a kid’s colouring sheet and an extensive menu.
If seafood is your thing, you can have lunch or dinner overlooking the beach at Riddle and Finns which specialise in oysters and cocktails. There are plenty of entertainment options for entertainment in the beachfront bars, with early evening live music at the oldest hotel in Brighton The Old Ship hotel, with its deckchairs outside or stroll further along to enjoy the pleasures of the Palace Pier.
The Palace Pier opened in 1899 and at the time was illuminated by 3,000 lightbulbs, and despite advancements in technology, it retains its former Victorian charm. There are penny arcades and fruit machines to provide entertainment for all ages, donuts and ice cream stores and wonderful views out to sea.
Cosmopolitan Brighton
In the early evening, the whole family can go for a stroll along the beach and ride on the famous Golden Gallopers carousel which was built by Frederick Savage in 1888. As you stroll back to the hotel you can see the Victorian arches which once were fishermen’s rests and are now home to trendy bars and clubs.
Regency architecture overlooks the Hove Lawns, and the beach is fringed by colourful beach huts. The beachfront itself remains very family-friendly up until about 10pm. The summer brings cultural festivals which really added to the vibe of this cosmopolitan city. Throughout the day there were Brazilian dancers, South Indian performers, and gymnasts from local schools.
The beach comes alive with trendy beach bars and entertainment for the fashionistas and ‘bright young things’, Indeed Brighton is the home of Norman Cook aka Fatboy Slim who honed his skills on the booming Brighton club scene which is what a lot of people visit today. This is a fun and artistic city renowned as a destination for partying and has a vibrant LGBTQ community.
In a nutshell
Brighton is a belle of the south coast; it has everything for families to enjoy and at the same time is a vibrant party city, a truly cosmopolitan destination. Less than 50 miles away from London, it is the perfect vacation by the beach either for a long weekend or a mid-week break.
Factbox
Hilton Brighton Metropole
Address: Hilton Metropole, Kings Road, Brighton, BN1 2FU
Phone: +44 1273 775432
Website: hilton.com
