Words by Genevieve Madeira
Sometimes in life, you just have to carve out time to recover, realign, and reimagine your existence. Spiritual retreats have often traditionally been reserved for the elite, but they are now gaining momentum as a leading travel trend. These immersive encounters encourage one to escape the every day monotony, awakening senses and feeding souls for better days ahead, through inner and outer workings that offer up invaluable tools and positive awakenings. The journey of the Mahavidya goddesses was no exception.
Mahavidya goddesses of Hinduism retreat
The gentle hum of the Assam morning welcomed me and my group of twenty as we stepped out into the vibrant streets of Guwahati. The anticipation of what was to come was actually gripping, as I embarked on what was to be a profound journey, searching for answers in the cross roads of mid-life.
The hotly anticipated hiatus from life as I knew it was to be an exploration of the ten Mahavidya goddesses of Hinduism, each representing a different aspect of the divine feminine energy. They are often associated with different powers, attributes, and mythologies. Stories from the Mahanvidyas can vary across different traditions, but they are typically revered and honoured for their roles in creation, preservation, and also destruction.
Guwahati is a sacred pilgrimage site where the temple of Kamakhya is one of the most revered and famous temples in the entire country. It is known for its unique architecture as well as the annual Ambubachi Mela (otherwise known as the tantric fertility festival), a celebration of the yearly menstruation course of goddess Kamakhya.
The connection between the ten goddesses and our daily practice of Yantras deeply rooted in Hindu mythology and spiritual practice. Yantras are sacred geometric diagrams that serve as visual representations of divine energy and cosmic principles; powerful tools for meditation, concentration, and spiritual transformation.
Each goddess is associated with a specific Yantra, which embodies her essence and attributes in geometric form; something we explored in great detail in our everyday practice during the retreat. Yantra set us up for the day, promoting focus from within, followed by chanting in the spirit of a particular Yantra, meditation and yoga.
I ADORED the chanting- who knew? Even the most lacklustre spiritual endeavourer would fall under this spell. Our teachers, Sarah Tomlinson and Amanda Ahern would lead, via a series of melodic Mantras to totally transport us.
Sarah started out as a visual artist in New York City, already a yoga practitioner she had a chance discovery of a book of Yantras by Harish Johari. Her obsession and deep connection to the movement immediately catapulted her into this journey and led her to India to learn from the master of Yantra, Johari.
To this day, Tomlinson is seen as a pioneer of this space in western world. Her daily Yantra practice has guided her through relationship breakups, relocations and work/life decisions. The practice is literally embedded into every area of her life and those around her. Sarah says: “These ancient practices are so compelling they awaken present moment happiness. Sometimes we have to step away from our routines and complexities, to enliven the senses and bring joy to the surface again. The idea is not to escape life’s challenges, but to come back – from your journey of Yantra meditation, or Spiritual Retreat with a brightened relationship with reality.”
Amanda, our other teacher, is a spiritual nomad with a fountain of diverse and authentic knowledge. Her journey began in the swinging sixties when she, a self-professed socialite stumbled across the world of Osho. It was during her time there when she discovered her unapologetically spiritual being and pulled out of life as she once knew it, devoting herself to this new path. When the Osho movement dissolved from its original form, Amanda’s Tantric faith was already solidified; she says “This seems to be the most plausible philosophy for our time as modern beings. Tantra’s fundamental tenet is that everything is in essence-divine. It is a non-dual approach and facilitates a large ‘yes’ to life, inviting us to move through things we would normally avoid that in turn create doorways to our higher self.”
During our stay in Guwahati, we visited a series of temples to accompany the inner work we were doing with the ten goddesses. From my group, I was possibly the person least tapped in to the work of the goddesses. As we ventured around he temples I noticed conversations being struck around the different vibes people were getting. “Did you feel Kali in there?” one would say. “That one was dark” another would say. At the time, I could not resonate, but on reflection I now realise there was certainly some presence in each of the temples, a mood, a vibe. I think the temple where I gained most clarity was the Bhubaneshwari Temple, located outside of the village and a windy walk up the hill where leopards are known to roam wild. It offered a real feeling of freedom, space and wilderness, which makes sense since it is the temple of the Queen of all goddesses and all five elements; Bhubaneshwari.
The Kamakhya Temple, which we visited on the final day of our stay was serious business. Some worshippers had been queuing for 12 hours to get in, with children in tow. Upon entry it was a whirl of activity; we were tossed from statue to shrine in order to honour and worship. We adorned goddess Kamakhya (the goddess mother who is worshiped in the form of a yoni or vulva) with flowers and food offerings and a bow of gratitude in her honour. In return, we were blessed with the holy water, surrounding her shrine, and with a final seal of approval in the form of a dash of red chalk upon forehead, taken directly from the yoni.
At any one time, one could have several goddesses influencing direction of life, however in general a devotee tends to focus on just one for clarity of mind and success.
Of course, nothing from this trip would ever have been possible without the presence of Seema Johari, daughter of the original master of Yantra. Herself a devotee, Seema preferred to stay in the shadows of the retreat efficiently planning the logistics of our every move.
Seema went on to tell me her father is present in all she does as a key inspiration, like a ‘tree of life’ his legacy goes on in every aspect of what she does as a spiritual vacation expert who builds Ayurveda, vedic astrology, Tantras, Yantras, and Mantras into experiences enjoyed by a whole army of spiritual beings around the globe (I am told Brazilians are huge lovers of this space).
A further rather delightful section of our retreat involved a ‘Homa’ ceremony. Sometimes named ‘sacrifice ritual’ in which a lit fire is the agent and our offerings include ghee, milk, incense, flower petals and seed. We omitted the offerings as dusk fell and the fire roared to the chant of ‘Svaha’ and through deep meditation we hoped this beautiful ritual would bring strength, health, wealth and influence.
Our ‘Homa’ host Amma Venu Syama, a goddess in her own right softly and sweetly got about her ceremonies, offering anecdotal conclusions at every step. The finale of this part of the journey involved something called a Ananda Bhairava Puja; just one of the most beautiful moments I have encountered. A celebration of the divine feminine, where our feet were painted in turmeric, and our bodies adorned, and I mean adorned in fresh flower petals. A strange yet honouring experience, which each one of us felt with all our hearts as our meditation intensified.
Because I was a novice at all this, the thought of actually going on this trip was slightly daunting but I have to say, I felt entirely ‘held’ by the beautiful teachings of Sarah, Amanda, Seema and Amma. The journey was empowering, yet bizarre and, sometimes uncomfortable, but it left me with a feeling that anything was possible and any confusion that I had concerning life, direction, my purpose in the world was, for that moment, quite clear.
Ayurveda Soma Health Resort
Having experienced one of the holiest parts of India swathed in fabric from head to toe, as a female Western sun worshipper, I did not feel ready for the journey to end and took the amazing opportunity (suggested by Seema) to fly way down to Kerala to visit the incredible Ayurveda Soma Health Resort.
Nestled amidst the verdant landscapes of Kerala, this retreat offers a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life. Surrounded by lush greenery, with the soothing sounds of the ocean nearby and of nature all around, the location itself is therapeutic.
This was a hugely welcome slice of accessible luxury and total relaxation at the end of a mind-blowing spiritual journey in North East India. One of the standout features of Ayurveda Soma Kerala is its commitment to authenticity. From the moment you step onto the property, you’re greeted with an ambiance that reflects the true essence of Ayurveda. The use of natural materials, traditional architectural elements, and genuine Ayurvedic treatments all contribute to a wholly authentic experience.
The rooms were designed to provide comfort while also aligning with Ayurvedic principles. Whether you opt for a traditional cottage or a modern villa, each room is thoughtfully appointed to promote relaxation and wellbeing.
The heart of the experience at Ayurveda Soma Kerala lies in its Ayurvedic treatments. Led by experienced practitioners, these treatments are personalised to address individual health concerns and promote balance in mind, body, and spirit. From rejuvenating massages to detoxifying therapies, each treatment is designed to restore harmony and vitality. My senior therapist, Sindhu O, was incredibly warm, sweet natured with the magic touch and a voice which actually sang. My time in this holistic hospital was not long enough.
In Ayurveda, there is an emphasis on the role of diet to maintain health and wellness. At Ayurveda Soma Kerala, guests can enjoy nutritious meals prepared according to Ayurvedic principles. Using locally sourced ingredients and seasonal produce, the meals not only nourish the body, but also support the overall healing process.
I can safely say that my experience at Ayurveda Soma will be repeated. Having seen the vast array of people going through the health resort, I got a full understanding that holistic health is very much at the very centre of Indian culture. And why wouldn’t it be? I got chatting to one resident and celebrated nutritionist, Lisa G who stayed for two weeks and felt utterly transformed, saying “my job as someone who does a lot of giving wouldn’t be possible without this level of self care. I wanted to fully embrace my stay so I left myself and my learning’s behind.”
Following this epic and profound spiritual journey, I have continued to reflect and wonder if everything in my life is ‘a sign’. Beyond the physical rejuvenation and mental relaxation, I certainly felt a deeper connection with myself, and the universe. I am learning to be grateful in my everyday, to give more time and empathy to my loved ones. And on those days where the s**t hits the fan, I simply say to myself “its ok Gen, you’re a goddess”.
Factbox
Retreat prices range from £3,500 to £5,000 plus flights. Includes yoga, rituals, and Yantra drawing, painting and meditation. You can find details of the next retreat here.
Amanda Aherns book – The Way Of The Goddess
Ayursoma, Kerala – prices and to (tbc)
