Words by Benjamin Russell
Visitors to the UK may head to London thinking an open top bus tour of the sights is a way to get a handle on Britain. But for those looking to really experience the heart of England — the rolling countryside, the pretty villages and the traditional pubs — there’s no finer way than setting sail on a narrowboat. For natives, a break on the waterways makes a perfect escape from the rat race, giving the chance to discover the UK all over again from a truly unique perspective.
These long, metal barges, and the network of canals they float on, used to be the industrial backbone of the country, but after the rail and road revolution they fell into disrepair. Thankfully, they have been revived and the coal-filled boats have been replaced with comfortable floating homes.
We decided to embark on such a journey over a long weekend, and on the Friday afternoon we took an early cut from work and headed to Napton Narrowboats at their base at Autherley junction, where the Shropshire Union Canal meets the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal. Napton is part of the Drifters Group which offers an amazing range of boat trips across England, Wales and Scotland, making it possible to find a break within easy reach of your home.
As we stepped inside our boat, named Imogen, it was clear that comfort wasn’t going to be a compromise of life afloat, with a full-sized bath, king-sized bed, onboard Wi-Fi and all the mod-cons you’d expect at home.
James was on hand to give us the rundown of how everything worked and before long it was time to cast off. As we sailed away from the junction past rows of moored boats, canal-side houses gave way to the beautiful Staffordshire countryside and within a few minutes we were surrounded by nothing but farmland.
For the next few hours we worked our way through corn fields, under picturesque bridges, and past wildlife before reaching bridge 14 — home to the aptly named Bridge Inn in the pretty village of Brewood. We drifted slowly towards the bank and moored up. As luck would have it we’d picked a spot right next to a set of steps that led directly up to the pub where we enjoyed a well earned pint.
For dinner we strolled to the heart of the village to the Market Place, which is home to The Staffordshire Grill, located in the grade II listed Lion Hotel. They have a high-quality and varied menu, but their premium 35 day aged British steak selection is not to be missed. We opted for the English fillet and were not disappointed.
Out of the window we’d already caught sight of the bustling Swan Hotel, a characterful old coaching inn that looked like the perfect spot for an after dinner drink. It was packed with boaters and locals enjoying an impressive range of real ales from local breweries. We had intended to explore more, but once we had a seat in the Swan we saw out the rest of our night there. As we got back to the boat it started to rain, and we drifted off to sleep with a lullaby of drops pattering on the roof.
The next morning, feeling refreshed and having enjoyed a breakfast on board, we cast off and headed up the canal for about an hour, this time passing over Stretton aqueduct, which was designed by Thomas Telford and built in 1832. We admired its cast iron railings as we floated through the sky, cars seemingly driving through the water beneath.
As we sailed further into this stretch, the countryside really changed. The Turneresque landscape of undulating fields nestled between hedgerows turned into deep woodland, and as we carved our way through the dappled sunlight and deep forest, the canal took on a fairy tale-like quality.
Our next stop was the tiny village of Wheaton Ashton. It was here we encountered our first lock and, conveniently, a friendly team of fellow boaters who were on hand to help and make sure we got through it without any drama. As we chatted they said they were heading to The Hartley Inn, which sounded like a splendid idea, so we moored up and strolled up to the bridge. As we took a light lunch and some liquid refreshment, we were impressed by the quality so decided to book in for a Sunday roast on the return leg.
It transpired that we were following in some celebrity footsteps with our canal adventure, the pub having previously been patronised by Wayne and Coleen Rooney, who had sailed the same route as we had in 2021, stopping both at the Hartley Inn and the Bridge Inn we’d been in the night before.
After a little digestion time and a glass of wine on the back of the boat watching other vessels pass by, we decided to fire up the engine and join them. Onwards to Gnosall.
Just as Wheaton Ashton had marked it’s upcoming with a lock, arrival in Gnosall is signalled by the Cowley Tunnel, which is carved through a solid slab of rock and emerges through the foliage, gnarled trees perched atop its ancient facade, their roots twisted in a timeless grip.
As seemed to be the status quo, there was a pub, The Boat Inn, nestled next to the village’s first bridge. But we were spoiled for choice, with a second bridge a little further along also offering refreshments in the form of the Navigation Inn. In the mood to explore though we had a stroll further into town and dined at the Royal Oak, which serves traditional pub food in comfortable surroundings.
The next day we set out for the last destination on our trip, Norbury Junction. This offered a place to fill up our water tanks, and a wide space to try our hand at our first three-point turn, watched by tables of people at the Old Wharf Tearoom. When we found ourselves facing the other way without hitting any of the other boats, we decided we’d done a decent enough job moor up and grab an ice cream with the onlookers.
I thought I’d feel a bit down heading homewards, but there was something comforting about visiting familiar sights, and plenty that we hadn’t noticed the first time round.
We stopped in at the Hartley Inn for that Sunday lunch which was everything we’d hoped for, and took a leisurely sail back to Brewood. This time though we tried Aperitif, an upmarket cocktail bar which is not to be missed.
Rather than stay in the same spot as we previously had, we decided to sail a little further and moor up in isolation for our final night. We found a spot lined with poplar trees, the countryside rolling away into the distance, and sat on deck, watched the sunset and enjoyed the unspoilt stars before turning in one last time.
In the morning, as I started the engine, pulled up the mooring pins and eased the boat away from the bank and back towards the real world, I felt like a different person to the one who had sailed in the opposite direction just a few days earlier. It’s hard to put your finger on what it is about a narrowboat holiday that makes it such a special and relaxing experience, but I think it might be something to do with it being a much needed reminder, that life is about the journey, not the destination.
Factbox
2023 prices for Imogen start at £679 for a short break (three or four nights), £975 for a week. There’s a £60 non-refundable damage waiver charge per booking. Pets are charged £45 each.
Drifters offers the choice of 550 boats from 45 bases in England, Scotland and Wales and 2023 prices start at £555 for a short break (three or four nights), £780 for a week.
For more information visit drifters.co.uk
