Looking for the perfect spot for a luxurious summer staycation? The small village of Polruan is one of south Cornwall’s best kept secrets, and enjoys a privileged location that makes it the perfect spot for a relaxing summer break.
Perhaps a little lesser known than the sophisticated town of Fowey, which sits just opposite it on the banks of the Fowey River, Polruan is the ideal place for those seeking an exclusive yet secluded-feeling escape, and is home to a select few luxury rental properties where you can make the most of the utmost in privacy, away from the throng of tourists who visit the area each year.
Cornish Horizons offers an array of gorgeous self-catering holiday cottages in stunning coastal and countryside locations across Cornwall, including Padstow, St. Ives, Porthleven and Fowey to name but a few – and from dog-friendly digs to opulent hideaways complete with their own hot tubs, whatever you’re looking for in your holiday accommodation, you’ll likely find it here.
In Polruan, Pencarreg is a prime example of the calibre of property that’s on offer through the site, and I was recently lucky enough to check into this stylish property for a few days of much needed rest and relaxation.
Snapped up in 2020 by its current owners after they honeymooned in nearby Polperro and fell in love with the region, there was just something about Polruan – known locally as the Sunny Side of the Fowey River – that drew them in, and the quaintness of this charming fishing village, combined with its easy accessibility via river taxi to Fowey, sealed the deal.
“The first time we viewed Pencarreg we knew that it was the one,” said Michael Davis, co-owner of the property. “The moment we stepped foot inside the property and saw the breath-taking panoramic sea views, we were blown away.
“We put an offer in for the property there and then. As you could imagine there had been huge interest in the property, but after some negotiations we were able to agree a deal and the house was removed from the market prior to going to auction. For fear of being gazumped we exchanged contracts on the same day that our offer was accepted, not wanting to leave anything to chance.”
Originally built in the 1970s, the couple lovingly restored it to its former glory but with a modern twist, with the goal being to maintain the original features and charm of the house.
“We stripped the property right back to its bare brick walls and replaced all the electrics and plumbing. We also added bifold and patio doors at the rear of the property to make the most of the incredible views,” Michael added.
“Since completion we have been letting the house as a holiday let. We do spend as much time at the property as we can ourselves and have made many great new friends in the village.”
I recently had the pleasure of checking in for a few days to experience this beautiful property first hand, and it was every as wonderful as I’d hoped.
The property and location
Pencarreg enjoys a prime cliffside location in the picturesque fishing village of Polruan, south Cornwall, which as well as being so close to Fowey, is also just a three-minute walk from the iconic South West Coast Path. So, if you’re the type who enjoys scenic coastal walks and quaint seaside villages, then it ticks all of the boxes and more.
Positioned enviably at the top of the village, the last three to four miles of the route to get here is a single-track lane, which is quite narrow and not for the faint-hearted – but if you’re looking for a remote and secluded property then it’s certainly that.
The property is approached via a grand 50-yard driveway, which allows for plenty of time for the suspense to build around what’s to come. Once you get there, it doesn’t disappoint, with an expansive and perfectly manicured front lawn welcoming you that looks fit for a good game of croquet or tennis. It’s absolutely immaculate; in fact, it gave me immediate lawn envy. The property owner employs a gardener to keep the garden looking its best and suffice it to say, it’s definitely money well spent.
At the front of the house, there’s also ample parking for three or four cars, and it feels like a very secure and safe space to deposit your prized set of wheels for the night.
Inside, things are equally impressive. There’s very much a beachy feel throughout the property, with the colour palette of whites, creams, blues and neutral tones creating a cohesive and relaxed vibe.
Airy, spacious and flooded with plenty of natural light to create a sense of openness, it’s a refreshing and uplifting feel overall, making you feel at peace with the world the moment you set foot in the door. In fact, it almost feels like being on board a yacht in the South of France.
This four-bedroom reverse-level house is designed to make the most of its spectacular position, with two bedrooms, along with a small utility and shower room on the ground floor. The rooms down here are neutral toned and rather simple, but suitably comfortable and cosy.
Heading upstairs via a wooden staircase, the next level features a large kitchen and open-plan living area that’s great if you’re visiting as part of a group, with family and friends. There’s a grand wooden dining table that offers the perfect place to gather for a sociable dinner and rustic wooden elements and floors featuring throughout, all adding to that seaside vibe. If you’re here during the colder months of the year then the log burner will likely be welcomed, and will transform the space into a cosy hideaway.
There are glorious sea views from a spacious deck, which features furniture and a set of sun loungers to ensure you can really immerse yourself in the holiday vibe and on a sunny day, for a moment, you’ll feel as if you’ve jetted off abroad.
A great outdoor social area that comes complete with a seven-seater hot tub, you could easily spend hours here simply sitting back, relaxing and marvelling at those breath-taking vistas as the yachts sail by – and in fact, I did just that.
It’s also a great spot for al fresco dining; when the sun is out, you can take full advantage of the warm evenings and enjoy dinner on the deck. In the mornings, heading out for a long and leisurely breakfast is just as satisfying, as is relaxing over a coffee or a glass of wine at pretty much any time of the day. Unfortunately there was no barbecue, which would have been a nice touch and most certainly made the most of during the summer months. An outdoor sofa would have also been welcome to really add to the sense of relaxation.
The other two bedrooms – including the master – and a spacious bathroom with a shower and bathtub are up here, too. The upstairs bedrooms feature more neutral tones but with more of a coastal-inspired feel, with white furniture and touches of blue. The kitchen features dark blue units and in the living room, sandy-coloured leather furniture makes a simple statement against the polished wooden flooring that runs throughout the upper level.
I was pleased to find an array of Cornish welcome gifts awaiting me on arrival, including some freshly-baked scones with jam and clotted cream. There was also a bottle of Cava, which was lovely and almost the perfect way to wash them down – make it a bottle of Cornish sparkling wine, and it would have been right on the money.
Upstairs, the master bedroom enjoys privileged access to its own private deck via a set of glass French doors. Waking up in the morning and looking out to sea is a real highlight, and the additional sense of seclusion makes it a great space to sit and enjoy a moment of calm.
The local area
The ancient fishing village of Polruan is just across the water from the stunning yachting town of Fowey. It’s built on a very steep hill (and I mean steep), and is bounded on three sides by water; Pont Creek to the north, the River Fowey to the west and the English Channel to the south.
The village offers two pubs, a bakery with a small cafe and a local shop selling all the basics you might need during your stay, which is handy if you remember you’ve forgotten a crucial ingredient whilst cooking dinner or need to stock up on fresh items for breakfast. It has carefully retained its unspoilt charm and character, and feels like it still has some local population as well as the second home owners and holidaymakers who filter in and out each spring and summer.
For an evening drink, the Russell Inn is a real local’s pub, exuding a friendly atmosphere and featuring a dartboard and pool table, with a good selection of beers and ales on offer. The Lugger Inn, meanwhile, is more of a foodie place, with gorgeous views of the estuary and across to Fowey. The menu is a mixture of small plates and pub classics, with a focus on freshly caught seafood. You’ve got to have some fish and chips whilst in Cornwall, and they’re particularly good here, as are hearty traditional dishes like the sausage and mash and the gammon, egg and chips. The Cornish mussels and Porthilly oysters look equally tempting if you’re in the mood for something a little more sophisticated, but if you can’t decide then you can opt for a steak and seafood combo and get the best of both worlds.
If you’re planning on more of a flying visit then the pub also has a handy takeaway hatch overlooking the quay, where you can pick up hot food and drinks, beer and wine to enjoy on the benches whilst enjoying the stunning views over the estuary.
Fowey
Polruan is just a few minutes on the passenger ferry to Fowey, where you’ll find more shops, pubs and restaurants (and yes, another steep hill). The Polruan to Fowey ferry runs a daily service, finishing at 11pm during the summer and 7pm during the winter.
Here, you’ll find an array of quaint shops, cafes and restaurants, as well as a couple of popular pubs where you can enjoy a pint or a glass of wine in the sunshine and soak in the views of Polruan.
A must whilst you’re here is the River and Harbour Boat Trip, which is operated by Fowey Cruise and takes you on a 45-minute exploration, complete with a running commentary from the skipper all about Fowey’s history. Guiding you up river as far as Wisemans Reach, it also gives you the chance to see renowned author Daphne DuMaurier’s house, passing the Fowey docks, where the ships load China clay, before heading downstream past Place House, the blockhouses, Readymoney Cove, the harbour entrance and Polruan. The trips depart every 20 minutes from Fowey, so even during peak season there are plenty of chances to get on board. You haven’t seen Fowey until you’ve seen it from the river – or Polruan, for that matter.
The town is also home to Catherine’s Castle – a small 16th Century fort that is worth a visit if you’re a history buff. Situated at the harbour entrance built by Henry VIII to defend Fowey, it’s accessible on foot from Readymoney Cove and entry is free.
And there’s also an aquarium and a small museum – The Fowey Museum – in the town if you’re interested in delving a little deeper into its storied past.
South West Coastal Path
If you’re keen to get out and about and walk some of the South West Coastal Path during your stay at Pencarreg, then you’re in luck, because the path is accessible within minutes of leaving the property – and there’s no need to cross the river.
The seven mile walk eastwards to Polperro is somewhat challenging but well worth it, and a really scenic route that you’ll want to have your camera on hand for. Polperro has several great pubs and cafes, so you’ll want to make a day of it and stop here for lunch or a drink before heading back. Beginning at West Street in Polruan, head east to The Peak for the first of many great views out towards Whitsand Bay and beyond, and continue on from there.
The walk to Lansallos from Polruan is a little shorter, at six miles in total (three each day) and is also a more moderate route. Lansallos is a lovely hidden cove where you can sunbathe on a rock or take a cooling dip in the sea before heading back to Polruan and Pencarreg.
Factbox
To book this stunning property, contact Cornish Horizons on telephone 01237 426790 or visit cornishhorizons.co.uk.
