Words by Julia Hughes
With Exmoor National Park to one side and Dartmoor with its wild roaming ponies to the other, North Devon is well-known for its lush landscapes and outdoor way of life. It’s the place to go to breathe in fresh air and have a good old stomp. But amongst the trees and leafy hedgerows, a new kind of countryside retreat has quietly carved out a more luxurious side to the area.
The Mole Resort, stretching for some 125 acres and tucked away on the fringes of the tiny village of Chittlehamholt, combines the best of the countryside with stunning lodges and incredible food. It’s the type of resort that doesn’t do things by halves. Over 40 activities are on offer and, such is the quality, couples and groups of friends love it just as much as families.
Resort
The journey to The Mole Resort is a fitting prelude to the arrival; quiet, narrow roads are flanked by artisan, local producers and views become more vast and green-filled as the sat nav counts down the miles. Whichever direction you’re coming from, it takes a little drive. But that’s the beauty of it and by the time I had pulled onto The Mole’s impressive driveway with my young family and dog in tow, Devon had already worked its magic.
It’s difficult not to get carried away when taking the resort in for the first time. Akin to a very upmarket holiday camp, there are courts and courses at every turn. Heads naturally start plotting how to pack it all in but The Mole is about holidaying the way you want to. If that means getting active and trying new things, it’s here. Those who want to laze and relax are just as well looked after. Guests are free to set their own tempo.
The resort has evolved from the former Highbullen Hotel and, courtesy of L&R Hotels, has been treated to a £25 million makeover. It opened last summer and has become a worthy counterpart to the likes of Cliveden House and Nobu Ibiza Bay in the L&R portfolio.
Lodge
The resort is home to 58 lodges with a choice of two, three and four-bedroom options. They’re all dog-friendly, generous on space and come complete with expansive terraces and hot tubs. I was given a three-bedroom valley view lodge and it certainly lived up to its name. Light poured through the bi-fold doors which looked out across treetops and, with plenty of distance from the nearest neighbours, was beautifully private.
A top-spec open-plan kitchen and living area (kept toasty by underfloor heating) opened out to stylish bedrooms and the décor was a crisp take on country classics throughout with panelled walls and clean lines.
Crafted from cedar wood and topped with a living roof, the lodge’s eco-credentials were easy to see but with the confidence of a resort doing the right thing, there wasn’t a hint of worthiness. The plastic-free L’Occitane shampoo, conditioner and body wash bars were a particularly nice touch and elsewhere on the resort, guests can check into the UK’s first energy-positive lodge.
We spent much of our time at the lodge lounging in the hot tub which was a particular hit with the kids. Our sunrise and moonlit soaks made for some special memories and when we weren’t enjoying the bubbles, board games kept us busy. Our cockapoo felt at home too having been treated to her very own Mole hamper, complete with doggie travel essentials.
Guests wanting to put their feet up and be taken care of can opt for the traditional rural character of the Arts and Crafts era, Manor House and Estate Rooms.
Food and drink
When it comes to digging in and feasting on Devonshire goodness, the quality continues with no less than three places to eat. Had we been sans children, it would have been an easy decision; the Devon View Restaurant, winner of two AA Rosettes for seven years running.
Here, the elegant menu by executive head chef, Stephen Walker is a showcase for the flavours of the South West. The 35-day aged beef sirloin from John May Butcher’s seven miles down the road is a particular mark of its excellence. Starters sit around the £12 mark while mains start from £21.50. But alas, it wasn’t to be on this stay.
We opted instead to take a seat in the Cellars Pub which as it turned out, was an impressive consolation prize. We dined on the Devon Ruby Red beef burger and house-made smoked salmon Caesar salad (divine) while the children decided to eschew the kid’s menu to share a sourdough pizza.
Perfectly sweet warm sticky toffee pudding and a creamy bourbon vanilla crème brûlée completed our meals and, of course, we had to try The Mole’s very own ale (exceptionally smooth). The resort also serves its own tequila, gin and rum which are distilled in neighbouring Somerset. Pull up a stool in the sophisticated Library Bar for the full offering alongside expertly mixed cocktails.
For lunch in the warmer months, The Bistro opens its stylish doors for focaccia toasties and decadent desserts served on the terrace.
Guests who can’t tear themselves away from the lodges (and who can blame them) can order hampers of locally sourced produce along with DIY roast dinner kits and a bijou version of the pub menu.
Wellness
Alongside two swimming pools (outdoor and indoor), there’s a sauna, steam room and a surprisingly well-equipped gym. There’s also a wide selection of treatments and a busy schedule of fitness classes, offering everything from yoga to HIIT.
Where The Mole really strikes a win when it comes to wellness though is the natural setting. Just wandering around the site is a tonic. With our four-legged member of the family, we also tried one of the many walks recommended on the resort app and enjoyed an easy stroll to the village of Chittlehamholt, passing by rural farms and the Church of John the Baptist en route. Other walks follow the gently tumbling River Mole or go off the beaten track for a healthy dose of peace and seclusion.
To do
What isn’t there to do at The Mole? Active days are the resort’s speciality. Pickleball, tennis, croquet, pétanque, disc golf. There’s even a nine-hole golf course and that’s just for starters. Scheduled activities include archery and axe throwing as well as bushcraft and survival skills. During our stay, we spent time in the pottery painting studio and made the most of the games room with its air hockey, table tennis, shuffleboard, arcade games, puzzles, foosball and pool tables. Many activities are included in the stay while others are around £20 per person.
Wildlife encounters are also plentiful. Take a spot in the Deer Hide to catch a glimpse of red and roe deer and, after dusk, keep an eye out for owls, foxes and badgers.
A step beyond The Mole there are countless unspoilt woodland walks, muddy paths and cycling trails – this is the Devonshire countryside after all. The car-free Tarka Trail is a family-friendly cycling haven and for expansive views, there’s a choice of not one but two national parks with both Exmoor and Dartmoor a short drive away. In 40 minutes, North Devon’s beaches of Westward Ho! and Saunton Sands beaches can be reached.
In a nutshell
An indulgent resort for families, couples and groups to have fun and revel in the spectacular setting.
Factbox
Prices from £500 for a two-night, two-bedroom lodge stay.
Address: Chittlehamholt, Umberleigh, North Devon EX37 9HD
Phone: 01769 540561
Website: themoleresort.com
Photograghy courtesy of The Mole Resort.
