Words by Shilpi Madan
The desert sultanate of Oman is the most beautiful country in the Middle East. Dramatically diverse, it infuses sheer awe: you can experience snowfall in the peak of winter in the Jebel Akhdar mountains, course through the unending green of Salalah in the Dhofar region during the monsoon, snorkel, and dive with the jaw-dropping marine life in the Daymaniyat archipelago in the jewelled blue of the Gulf of Oman, or enjoy kayaking in Hinu Bay licked by the Arabian Sea. There is something for everyone in Oman; from adventure kicks to a breath-taking natural narrative to luxury wellness to a sensorial sojourn.
Whether you are planning a girlfriend getaway (Oman is one of the safest countries in the world for women), a multi-generational adventure with your family, or simply choosing an attractive holiday destination, Oman woos as an Insta catnip, and a year-round darling destination through the summer and winter. Word of caution – you need at least a fortnight to experience the best of Oman.
Into the blue
Looking for a coral calypso? Dive into the quiet cluster of nine Ad Daymaniyat islands – a nature reserve – with their sugar-white sands and stunning shades of azure. Snorkel with the turtles, spot colourful shoals of red-tailed butterfly fish, tuna and marlin, and camp on the secluded beaches when the birds are not nesting. You need to speedboat 40 km west of Muscat into the jewelled blue of the Gulf of Oman.
If an urban spurt is more up your alley, head to the private breach at Jumeirah Muscat Bay. The property is knitted to a helipad, and two fishing villages for serving up the famed, fresh catch every day. Stay at Alila Hinu Bay for a superstar experience that involves dips into the lagoon and kayaking across to spot the flamingos, gliding into yoga asanas by the surging sea. For the oasis experience, drive down to Wadi Darbat to drink in the emerald views. Waterfalls gurgle here throughout the year (believe it or not, in the middle of the desert!), amidst the thickly carpeted mountains that stay green until the end of the monsoon.
Connect with nature
Become at one with the might of the mountains. The sullen, brown Jebel Akhdar Mountain range stands at 3,000 metres above mean sea level, bringing in craggy rocks, treasured hiking trails and the challenge-laced Via Ferrata mountain climbing experience across three levels.
Stay at the superb high-altitude luxury property at Alila Jabal Akhdar to sign up for the formidable Ferrata, embark upon butterfly walks, and guided expeditions through the narrow, cobbled maze of pathways through the lost villages. Pluck pomegranates and apricots off the trees in the terraced fields. For revelling in the legendary rose bounty, visit Oman in spring, when the roses are harvested for ittar-making (visit the haute Amouage fragrance production facility for more olfactory sniffs) and marinades.
Did we mention the splendid star carousel at night? The spa kitchen specials where you can make your own face mists, foraging in the organic gardens to curate your own breakfast, farming the honeybees, swirling sundowners, and swimming in the infinity pools by Omani moonlight?
Sands of time
Go beyond the baobabs, spot the donkeys, goats and camels trundling along the dusty roads, and make your way to the desertscape in Oman. Do the dunes at leisure at Wahiba Sands as you walk into the sunset, or catch the slow, dramatic rising of the orb above the sands at the crack of dawn. Dune bashing, ATV rides, camel trots, belly dancing and bonfires under the star-spangled skies allow you to taste the Bedouin nomadic life.
Make time to visit the Al Baheed UNESCO Heritage site – the museum catalogues the dramatic journey of the locally-grown frankincense, between the mountains and the sea, and linking the peaks to the desert, right up to Rome. Stargazing fulfils you in many ways; enjoy a quiet, deepening night under the twinkling constellations and glamp in the dunes. The urge to bottle up a slice of the clear sky and the clean air and bring it back home is simply unbeatable.
Luxury wellness
Healing molecules of the frankincense oil pour their goodness into the cells of your bone marrow in the wellness therapies that abound in every spa. Frankincense of the light green complexion is edible (yes!) and finds space as a prized ingredient in preparations including hand-churned ice creams.
The natural narrative in Oman spells sheer communion with your own self through immersive experiences. A special mention goes to the best kept secret at Alila Jabal Akhdar – the outdoor Spa Arbour perched at the tip of the canyon – monikered the Grand Canyon of Arabia. An exotic experience where you surrender your senses to the birdsong, dappled sunshine, cloud tasting, and the magic of detox oils with juniper extracts to lull you into complete languor. That is after you are done with cloud tasting, butterfly trails and the like.
Stunning architecture
The picture-perfect frames leave you breathless in every inch of Oman, celebrating Omani and Islamic architectural styles. The robust rise of the Nizwa Fort – the city was the former capital of Oman – a breezy walk along the Mutrah Corniche, and the splendid interiors of The Royal Opera House should top your list.
Oman’s tallest structure – The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque – arrives amber-lit at night and regally stationed by the day. It is a stunningly chandeliered architectural gem, lined with elegant walkways, and open to non-Muslim visitors for a few hours every morning (except Friday).
The ramparts are crowned with five minarets and a canopy of gleaming domes and the heart of the edifice (constructed with 30,000 tonnes of pink Indian sandstone) brings in the second largest carpet in the world – a Persian rug with 1,700 million hand knots. Verses from the Koran in Thuluth dart through the lapis lazuli-streaked intricate handiwork of geometric murals on the walls and ceilings. The sprawling ramparts can accommodate over 20,000 worshippers during prayer service and the library here is a repository of Islamic culture.
Buzzing souqs
The quaint Omani bazaars are a pulsating mix bringing in a curious, eclectic picks. From traditional silver curios and artefacts to filigree bijouterie, ornate daggers (khanjars) and colourful lamps, and talismans you will find the whimsical, old-world charm here in the scores of tiny shops and cafes, selling frank incense burners, Omani halwa, handknitted Bedouin shawls and rugs.
The ancient date souq brings in the less-sweet Omani dates. Shop for frankincense to burn, and to eat; touristy specials in locally made keychains and cups, the rock rose jasmine tea, the black Omani Limbu (lemon) that spins a sourish piquant taste in a jiffy when you toss it into food preparations back home. Tired? Halt at Café Athar to nestle with the twittering love birds and stare at the old walls of the Nizwa fort, with a cappuccino. Remember to pick those amazing potato Omani chips from the souq, to carry back home, you simply can’t stop at one.
Gourmet gospels
The Omani shuwa knits you to the traditional mutton delicacy that wraps the warm people of the country in togetherness. Delicately marinated mutton rolled in tabrizah – traditional spices mixed with dates vinegar – is placed into a basket called Al Khasfa. It is then wrapped in banana and moringa leaves and lowered into a tandoor – a pit dug into the ground – and slow cooked on acacia embers. Served usually with rice, and often with bread, it is savoured hot. Participating in the marination and pitting process is a huge novelty. Try it. The goats are usually imported by ship from India around Eid to mark the special celebrations.
The Omani umali is a sweet special that uncovers layers of rich condensed milk and slivered dried fruits as you course through the bread pudding with lip smacking ease. Tuck in the filo with zest. Camel meat is another yum savoury, especially in the Malay inspired dry masala licked, rendang version. Dining by Omani moonlight, with an inconspicuous personal butler raises the notch for a private celebration by several suave notches.
Prepare well
Expect temperatures ranging from a wintry 0 C to 40 C as you curate your journey across Oman, depending on the time of the year you choose to visit the desert sultanate. Fly the national carrier – the Oman Air business lounge at Muscat airport is a mini five-star hotel in itself, complete with hydrotherapy beds at the spa and personal, plush rooms.
What you need
- Sun combaters are a must, in water resistant sunscreen (SPF 50 +), a hat/cap, and sunglasses.
- Stick to loose clothing that covers the shoulders and goes below the knees.
- You will be required to cover your hair while entering places of worship.
- Slip into comfortable footwear if you choose to walk around and explore aplenty.
- Pack in appropriate shoes for hiking and rock climbing.
Shilpi Madan is one of India’s most experienced luxury and lifestyle journalists and has written over 2000 published articles and features dipping into food, fashion, travel, décor, health and fitness, parenting, education, trends…together with interviews and cover stories with celebrities and achievers.
