Hartwell House in Buckinghamshire is no ordinary hotel; in fact, this lavish countryside retreat is a piece of living history, with over 1,000 years’ worth of stories to tell of times gone by. Once the ancestral seat of some of England’s most illustrious families, it has been home to an exiled French king, and a Chancellor of the Exchequer, to name but a few of its elite residents over the centuries.
Now, the Grade I-listed historic house, with its avenues of trees, croquet lawn and church, operates as a luxurious hotel owned by the National Trust, and as you make your way up the sweeping drive and slow to a stop in front of the impressive façade, arriving to check in for a much needed weekend break feels very much like stepping straight into a period drama.
Situated within the Vale of Aylesbury and on the edge of the Chilterns, in an ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’, the hotel is located just 20 minutes from Oxford, 45 minutes from Heathrow and an hour by train from Central London, but the location is so peaceful and feels so rural that you wouldn’t know it. It’s one of those rare country house hotels that makes you feel right at home. It’s the perfect secluded hideaway for escaping the stresses and strains of modern life and restoring a sense of calm back into your life – but more than that, it’s like taking a journey back in time, where every moment of your stay is guaranteed to be a magical one.
A stately home with a story to tell
Built between 1570 and 1617 by Sir Alexander Hampden, the stately house hotel dates back almost 1,000 years, to the reign of Edward the Confessor, and was purchased by millionaire Ernest Cook in the 20th century, later serving as a training ground for troops during the Second World War before being briefly turned into a finishing school. Now, the hotel – part of the Historic House Hotels group and donated to the National Trust in 2008 – sits in pride of place on the esteemed Pride of Britain Hotels list.
Hartwell House was first mentioned in the Doomsday Book as belonging to William Peverel, a natural son of William the Conqueror, and became a regal residence in 1809 when it was leased to the exiled King Louis XVIII of France and his Queen, Marie Josephine de Savoie. It remained in the possession of the original families until 1938, when it was purchased by the grandson of Thomas Cook, founder of Cook’s Travel Agency.
Today, every corner of Hartwell House has a story to tell. Behind the Jacobean façade, you’ll find fine Georgian interiors, with rococo marble chimney pieces, decorative ceilings and a great hall in Baroque style, while the rather grand stairway features a brilliantly eccentric mix of carved figures including Sir Winston Churchill and G K Chesterton.
A loving restoration has maintained its old-world charm
Featuring both Jacobean and Georgian façades, Hartwell House has been skilfully and lovingly restored by Historic House Hotels – a project which extended to the 18th century stables, coach house and indoor riding school, which were adapted to create additional bedrooms and suites at Hartwell House.
Although the work was carried out as sympathetically as possible in order to retain the house’s historic charm, there has been no scrimping when it comes to modern luxury – and its show-stopping spa, which features a sauna, steam room and gym, is an opulent example of what’s on offer here to guests today.
Recently nominated for the new AA Spa Awards, it’s set in a traditional-style building that mimics an orangery and, from the outside, it blends seamlessly into its historic surroundings, but inside it’s like stepping into ancient Rome, but with an air of modern polish.
There’s also a fully equipped gymnasium on site for those keen to stay active during their stay, featuring a wide variety of machines and free weights to suit all types of workout.
The Royal suites and rooms are fit for kings and queens
The hotel is home to 48 sophisticated and lavishly appointed bedrooms and suites, spread across the Main House, Hartwell Court and The Old Rectory, and each one feels like a royal retreat.
The Royal suites and rooms have undergone restoration work to update them into what they are today, and you can now stay in the Duchess d’Angouleme room, once occupied by the daughter of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, which features a sumptuous four-poster bed and window seats overlooking the parkland.
I checked in for the night in a Royal room, which was decorated with an array of intriguing antiques and fine paintings and enjoyed awe-inspiring views over the gardens, parkland and lake. The perfect setting if you’re celebrating a special occasion, or even just because you want to treat yourself, it featured ornate decorative coving, regal patterned wallpaper and sumptuous carpets, with antique wooden furniture to add to that old-world feel. The huge windows allowed plenty of natural light to flood in to enhance the overall sense of spaciousness – although the room didn’t need much help in that department – and the historic portraits on the walls were another nod to the property’s rich history, which quite simply is evident everywhere you look.
The marvellously manicured grounds are steeped in history, too
Hartwell’s gardens are truly magnificent, and a testament to the love and care that goes into maintaining this breath-taking stately home. Landscaped by a contemporary of Capability Brown, amidst its lime tree-lined avenues and croquet lawns you’ll find a private lake and bridge (created from the central arch of James Paine’s Kew Bridge, built in the 18th century), an impressive Gothic Tower and a classical Italianate Ionic Temple.
The hotel’s 94 acres of parkland and grounds have become a haven for wildlife and animals, and beyond the main gardens you’ll see cows graze happily in the meadows. Around the lake, ducks float amidst the water lilies, and if you sit still for long enough, you’ll spot a wide variety of birds flitting about and perhaps a swan or two gliding beneath the stone bridge.
You can feast on fine food and wine in regal surroundings
Wining and dining at Hartwell House is a pleasure, and with executive head chef Daniel Richardson at the helm, you know you’re in for a treat. Richardson has been at Hartwell for more than 30 years and works closely with local suppliers and the hotel’s gardening team to source only the freshest seasonal ingredients to use in his creations. The restaurant currently holds two AA rosettes, and the impressive Hartwell cellar won the AA’ s Notable Wine List award for 2023.
The main dining room is designed in the style of eminent early 19th-century architect, Sir John Soane, and based on a room in 11 Downing Street, home of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, with elegant arches and delicate detailing.
Dinner is enjoyed in the dimly lit formal dining room, where the menu features mouth-watering British and French-inspired dishes like the roasted breast of pigeon with bean cassoulet or the beer braised tart tatin to start, followed by a roast saddle of rabbit, sirloin steak or cheese soufflé, just to give you a taster. And, of course, there are some delectable desserts on offer to round things off with, too – from the blood orange mousse to the please-all chocolate fondant.
Afternoon tea can be taken in The Great Hall, with its open fireplaces, and is a quintessentially British affair you won’t want to miss. Think pots of tea – or champagne, if you will – along with three tiers of sumptuous sandwiches, homemade buttermilk scones, freshly baked pastries and other sweet treats. It’s also available in the library and the Morning Room if you fancy a change of scenery.
In a nutshell
Staying here is a real treat, and the price reflects the service, facilities and exclusivity of Hartwell. It’s a real showstopper, and a place to celebrate. If you’re looking for a real ‘Lord of the Manor’ experience, then here, that’s exactly what you’ll get.
Hartwell House is all about old-school traditional luxury – think quintessentially English elegance and sophistication, and you’re on exactly the right track. It’s the sort of place you don’t leave during a stay; after all, in such breath-takingly beautiful and all-round opulent surroundings, why would you want to? And with decadent cuisine and great facilities on site, there really isn’t any need.
In the words of Lord Byron: “Why wouldst thou leave calm Hartwell’s green abode?”
Factbox
Classic double rooms from £210 per night in low season; and from £310 per night in high season. Price includes breakfast and Wi-Fi. Dinner an extra £90 per room (for two people).
Address: Oxford Rd, Stone, Aylesbury HP17 8NR
Phone: +44 (0)1296 747444
Website: hartwell-house.com
All imagery credit: Hartwell House
