When it comes to the most prestigious events in the British sporting calendar, the Henley Royal Regatta is up there with the best of them. Set in the picturesque town of Henley-on-Thames, the annual festival takes place over five days each summer and is one of the most iconic and historic rowing competitions in the world.
Dating all the way back to 1839, when the first regatta took place on this pretty Oxfordshire slice of the River Thames, this isn’t just any rowing competition, and visitors flock from all over the world to attend. Not just a highlight of the sporting calendar, it’s also seen as a social event to see and be seen at, with well-heeled spectators, dressed to the nines, turning out to witness the action unfolding on the water. In fact, it’s often possible to spot a royal or two in the stands, resplendent in the iconic straw boater and striped blazer that is traditional for the event – which is a sight to behold in itself.
Nestled amongst the rolling hills of Chiltern, Henley-on-Thames is described as one of the most beautiful towns in England and has been a regular winner of the RHS Britain in Bloom award over the years, making it a truly show-stopping setting for this thrilling event. Henley’s historic heart is but a few strides from the River Thames – its main street a lively artery framed by many Georgian and older buildings designated ‘special architectural or historical interest’ – so there’s plenty to see and do whilst you’re in the vicinity.
Nevertheless, the main spectacle is of course the regatta itself, which this year kicked off on Tuesday, 27th June and ran until Sunday, 2nd July. I was lucky enough to attend in person, invited to experience the prestigious Stewards’ Enclosure first hand – which is reserved only for a select few and requires navigating a rigorous application process to even be considered for membership.
Applications must be supported by two existing members, and the waiting list is currently between five and eight years, which should go some way towards conveying just how highly sought-after it is. Preference is given to those who have competed at the regatta, have a particular connection with the regatta, or enjoy a close involvement with the sport of rowing, which is understandable, given the very limited availability.
Needless to say, it was quite the honour to find myself rubbing shoulders with high-society and to see the nation’s best rowers taking to the water whilst living it up in the lap of luxury.
Experiencing the Stewards’ Enclosure
The Stewards’ Enclosure is located near the finish line of the regatta, affording guests spectacular views of the races and an unparalleled experience throughout. The enclosure itself has a rich history, going all the way back to that initial establishment of the Henley Royal Regatta and has retained its traditional values and rituals over the years, making it a living part of the regatta’s heritage.
There are many things that are special about this exclusive space, and the fact that it exudes tradition and formality is all a part of its charm. There’s a strict guest code, emphasising the overall sense of refinement. For men, it’s a lounge suit or a fitted jacket with trousers, finished with a tie – or, if you really want to go in on the quintessential Britishness of it all, a cravat. Women are expected to turn out in their finery, too, with dresses or skirts with a hemline below the knee to be worn – or a trouser suit, if they prefer. And of course, a show-stopping hat or fascinator is a must, and although not a requirement, is a custom that most female attendees choose to embrace.
A meeting place for influential individuals including royalty, business leaders, celebrities, and rowing enthusiasts, it’s almost a given that you’ll rub shoulders of someone of note, and I certainly spotted one or two notable faces. The enclosure offers a unique opportunity for networking and socialising with like-minded individuals from various backgrounds and expanding your social circle upwards – there aren’t many places you could find so many esteemed folk in one place, and it’s quite the special experience.
Dressed up in my finery and making the most of the elegant ambience, looking on as teams of oarsmen and women cross the finish line and raising glasses of champagne in toast, the atmosphere in the Stewards’ Enclosure is electric. There were plenty of prime positions from which to take in the action – and best of all, you didn’t have to stay on your feet all day to do so.
There are several bars in the enclosure, as well as a range of opulent dining options, ranging from a pre-bookable fine dining lunch and a choice of afternoon teas, to seafood platters and sushi. The Mile and 1/8th restaurant offers the ultimate regatta experience, where guests can reserve a table for the whole day and enjoy privileged views down over the river and the races as they take place. Coffee and pastries are delivered to your dedicated waiter for the day for breakfast, followed by a gourmet three course lunch, and later, a tiered selection of finger sandwiches, scones and cakes, all washed down with a pot of classic British tea (what else?). If you’re in the mood to celebrate though, then the fine wines and champagnes flow readily throughout the day, too – and you can be sure that in the enclosure, it really does.
Where to stay
The Relais Henley
If you’re thinking of going to the Henley Royal Regatta next year then The Relais Henley is an opulent choice for those seeking a thoroughly luxurious stay. An elegant boutique hotel located along the picturesque banks of the River Thames, it affords guests breath-taking views of the regatta’s course, with stylish and sophisticated design throughout.
Hotel du Vin Henley-on-Thames
Another indulgent choice, the Hotel du Vin Henley-on-Thames is set within a charming Georgian townhouse just a stone’s throw from the action and exudes classic elegance with a contemporary twist.
The Phyllis Court Club
If you’ll be experiencing the Stewards’ Enclosure then you’ll no doubt want to continue the exclusive theme elsewhere. And prestigious private members’ club The Phyllis Court Club is just the ticket. Think luxurious accommodation, stylish rooms and riverside suites, and all-round timeless charm.
Where to eat
Some of the best dining when attending the Henley Royal Regatta with be at the event itself, but if you’re planning on venturing outside and exploring Henley-on-Thames itself, then add these to your list:
Shaun Dickens at The Boathouse
Set right on the riverbank, with stunning views and a focus on modern British cuisine, Shaun Dickens at The Boathouse is a Michelin-listed restaurant that’s the perfect place to continue the traditional experience.
The Crooked Billet
Located in a quaint and charming 17th-century pub, The Crooked Billet offers exceptional cuisine and a warm and welcoming ambiance, and celebrates classic British flavours but with a modern twist.
The Spice Merchant
For something a little more exotic, head to The Spice Merchant for a vibrant and flavourful fusion of Indian and Thai cuisine.